Swordlordboy1234
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Posts posted by Swordlordboy1234
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Since I'm a deadener whore, I believe in 200% coverage. My next car will have retarded amounts of second skin. Thinking like 240sq feet of damp pro in a cobalt coupe with a bunch of overkill pro in the doors and luxury liner pro on the floors. I think 80-100 should be enough for double layer for those things mentioned.
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Why are Mmats and Skar being talked about in the same sentence....
Mmats is designed and made in the USA, not another patent with one part changed remanufactured with a different label shipped over here. Its awesome stuff. I'm still slightly skeptical that all of their amps do above rated power with the power inputs and size they have. But as far as their speaker sets and subwoofers... Top notch.
The pricing reflects how top notch they feel it is too.
I wouldn't run it, even if money wasn't an issue but talking about them and Skar in the same sentence is like talking about DD and pyramid audio together. It just doesn't belong.
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OP...
Do you see why I said what I said about snow in my earlier post.
Awesome guy, my personal "go to" guy when I have electrical questions.
/thread
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I would take that ground out and do a single proper ground to said strut tower. Requires removing one of the outside bolts and boring out the terminal... Sanding and retightening.
Good luck sir.
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OP I understand why you did not want to attempt that but if you have a way to bore out the ring terminal to have a larger sized hole then that's best.
The strut tower is one of the best places for rear grounding and I myself saw over a 1.5volt difference in voltage drop switching my ground to mine.
Its a bit more work but it's all in the pursuit of doing this hobby correctly sir.
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OP I understand why you did not want to attempt that but if you have a way to bore out the ring terminal to have a larger sized hole then that's best.
The strut tower is one of the best places for rear grounding and I myself saw over a 1.5volt difference in voltage drop switching my ground to mine.
Its a bit more work but it's all in the pursuit of doing this hobby correctly sir.
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Leave it to grant to have shameless plugs of his build log but still be helpful...
Good job sir.
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Snow has some good info OP. I strongly suggest listening to all he has to say or help with.
Dubindodge has an awesome example of why not to ground where you grounded...
And self tapping screws are not really a great grounding source.
Finally. The strut tower is that thing above the rear or front wheel with 3 or 4 bolts on top of it. It holds the springs and the shocks. Drill out a ring terminal so the hole is big enough. Sand down the area around one of those bolts really good. And ground using that.
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List:
#1 The kids who see your system and start telling fariytales about their friend's, dad's, uncle's system that defys basic sound physics. ie 220db
#2 People asking you about good stuff to buy for under $100...no, this is not possible in car audio.
#3 The shitty wiring kits from Walmart.
#4 Trunks that rattle so loud, you think the guy was taking a jackhammer to his trunk.
#5 10s are punchy, 12s are boomy...no. (what are 15s then?18s?)
#6 People not understandingthe basics on how amplifiers work.
#7 Ear-o-meters....uuuh yeah that a 190db at least bro.
#8 Going to tweak my amplifiers and OH SHIT I JUST RE-WIRED EVERYTHING. opps.
#9 Having to take it all out for winter.
#10 When some one asks to "Play this song man" *plugges in their ipod* and its horrid qualtiy and its clipping.
I'm gonna steal this and post it to Facebook. Thank you sir.
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Summer Heat on amps
Winter Cold on subs
When you are making smaller connections from amps to batteries and Cut it just a hair too long or short to look perfect next to all your other wires
Voltage drop below 12.8
TOO much flex, its cool to watch on other guys cars but its scary on my car because if it breaks its mine.
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Well I mean you got n8 Kylar snd snow drifter in this thread. They are all way smarter then me but I don't see why my suggestion wouldn't work logically. And if you have LC1's connected you can easily use the dd1 to find where (-5) would be on your lc1 while turning it up... Make a little mark on it and don't turn it up past that point when your playing decaf. And so on and so forth.
Hope that helps.
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It might also be useful spot set gains according to your max distortion point on the headunit at those higher levels to satisfy your 80's music...
Then leave those gain settings (a LC1 might be helpful here)
Then put on the -5db track and with those same gain settings, roll up the volume till you see distortion.
Now you have two different max volumes for your two different genre of music that are recorded at different db levels.
Snows answers are way better then mine but I believe mine might be useful sir.
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Ac? Thats why thry made roll down windows
Guess you have never been in Texas or Florida in the summer sir.
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Wall it to the A-Pillar.
just a thought. hahahah
:Ddoo it and trailer that bitch with the ho
He went over this on a YouTube comment I believe. He took out his towing capabilities for a bunch more d3100's in the hoe
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Well first let me say I really liked the idea strange duck had for tuning the bass with -10db on the dd1 with the sub level maxed, and then using the -5db tone and turn down your sub level until its clean to compensate for different music. I tune just with -5db but that's just me and I mostly stick with decaf so...
Second... Yes the 80prs is less then 1% thd at 62/62. Its a bad ass headunit.
OP. just make sure all bass boost, loudness, and other EQ things are turned off. Those are all bad. As far as boosting things +1 on your EQ.. That can work, but generally people will tell you to cut frequencies around it rather then boosting the lower ones. So instead of raising 1k... To lower 80hz and lower 1.5khz... That kinda idea.
Other then that it seems like your doing everything right. Another contributor would be voltage. If your voltage dips below where you tuned it with your dd1 then that could introduce clipping too. I tune with my car off so I'm safe till about 12.5volts.
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Is it done yet?
Cant wait for updates steve. This should be fun to watch.
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If we like, unlike, and relike... does it count as like'ing something 2 times?
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Knew that wouldnt take long....
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Not that I'm half as good in audio as many of your replies. But when I think of something I shoot for the most functional design and try to make it cool while still keeping things 100% functional.
Ex, if the amps gotta be logo upside down to be functional > looks then I do that. If I gotta have these wires showing but I have more cooling for my amps, I do that. Ect ect.
Try looking at it in a "ideal functional" mind set and try to make it look pretty from there. 4 15's or 6 12's might be better functional because you can double layer the whole box and maybe even a triple layer on the top to add more strength. Putting the amps together instead of on opposite sides of the vehicle, with the power inputs facing closest to your battery bank for short clean wire runs that don't cross over RCA's and speaker wires would also be another thing.
Just food for thought.
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Vote on what will happen first... A 160 or a tercel that is ripped apart from DC audio sexiness and Meade behind the construction?
Edit : I bet the dash and the windshield will look like its been in a junk yard since 95 either during or after Meade breaks the 60.
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More sneek pics plz!
Also... Start doing your own builds Steve.
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Dat blue poweraid
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Good god...I've NEVER seen a pair of 12s cause that much flex in a car
I second this...
:D
how much second skin will I need
in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!
Posted
Do you have a build log on Smd? I can only find the 10 pics of your alternator install and a couple outside pics. Beautiful car btw.