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Swordlordboy1234

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Swordlordboy1234 last won the day on November 28 2016

Swordlordboy1234 had the most liked content!

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About Swordlordboy1234

  • Rank
    160db
  • Birthday 11/02/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Austin Texas
  • Interests
    GroundPOUNDERS, racquetball, and proving how awesome car audio is to NONBELIEVERS

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  1. tons of them! the car is almost playing. Facebook friends have the inside scoop. I haven't had time to post up pics here because it takes forever.
  2. Its actually pretty simple. Im at my day job but ill type something up really quick. When i quote customers ( I install on the side) I look up and see whats available for Metra parts on their website. If they have a dash kit available then bam its time for an aftermarket radio. Steeringwheel controls are easy to keep if you get a good unit. Some are even pre programmed and plug and play. Metra will also sometimes have the plug and play harnesses to keep OEM usb's and such. pretty cool. If I do not see a dash kit available then jump right to DSP's. Start with how many channels your looking to run. Some will be fine with 6 channels out, some 8 channels out. Very few will need some of the crzier DSP's that can have 12+ channels output. Once you get a DSP picked out then its just finding the correct wire colors and soldering into them at a central location. Most cars will have a Bluetooth module ( like mine in the passenger kick panel) and all your wires will be there. If not it will have a premium sound system with a amplifier hidden somewhere and you can grab them there. The ONLY REASON i got the JL Fix86 was because it has auto features that were cheaper and easier for me. My stock system has a HPF likely in it that I would need to EQ out to get a flat 20hz - 20khz, thats also assuming its electrically flat until that HPF which isnt overly likely. My DSP from B2 does have Hi level inputs and you can EQ that signal before the DSP gets to the output section. But then im needing to get a $1200 RTA and look at the signal im getting electrically (not from a speaker) and EQ it all flat before I start on the output side of the DSP. The JL Fix 86 will auto EQ everything flat 20-20,000, it will get rid of any stock time allignment, stock filters, it will also signal sum (so like if my stock system had 3k - 20k going to a tweeter and the rest going to a 6.5 it would combine those automatically). Not only will it give me a pretty flat signal automatically it comes with a nice little knob that looks OEM and installs easy. So thats why I chose that unit.
  3. Id say that depends on install experience and skill level. Honestly with my skill level (moderate on OEM intigration, but with about 3 years experience working on all kinds of cars for car audio installation) It is nothing for me to take a brand new car and take it apart. I recommend making sure you take your time and you have experience taking apart interiors. Then its just a matter of keeping all your clips and bolts organized. wires are wires... it doesnt matter if its a 1955 or a 2017 or a ford or a lambo. A wire still has a outer jacket and inner copper and it still works under the basic laws of electricity. Making sure you have the right wires and such is just research. Like I said I am glad I got to screw up my 1996 a couple times before I learned enough to fix it all and Im glad I worked on about 50 2016's before I purchased my own and attempted a build this large. I hope all this helps
  4. Thanks bro! Yeah every 8ga 4ga and 2/0 will be tech flexed. And ive decided every panel that I create out of wood will be pretty in some form or fashion regardless if it can be seen. But I appreciate you stopping by check in after another couple weeks. Box should be done and maybe some more paneling / deadening.
  5. Thank you bud! Im looking forward to this build. Ive already had it all in my 96 accord so its not like its gonna blow me away with how it performs but im hoping to make the install THAT much nicer. Not that the accord install was bad, most considered it well done but it was still a 20 year old car with its defects. The pursuit of perfection will leave nothing but disappointment unless you look at the positives of your shortcomings. LOL. Im still yet to do the doors but I think it will help the speaker performance most. Idk about your car but mine is already pretty quiet for a 30,000$ car. If it was like a 90,000$ car I might expect more but I aint that ballin yet.
  6. This one was quiet to begin with... but yes I rode to work on volume 32 today.. normally im volume 40-43. In my 96 accord I used about the same amount of CDL but a lot more luxary liner and it helped a ton (and made me realize all the WIND noise I had because the road noise was gone). I highly reccomend doing deadeing the right way the first time as long as your vehicle will allow it. 90% of the time I find compromises having to be made with 1) do i want this to fit back together correctly 2) do i want it to be done properly according to the internet and its standards when you post pictures. LOL
  7. box dims are 37.5 wide 15.5 tall and 25.25 deep. Could go deeper but I want trunk room
  8. One more for good measure... because screw you Imgur, I totally uploaded this one from my file. why wasn't it there?! Anyways... Basically its the same treatment that the 2/0 got except its my 3 pairs of speaker wires and 4 pairs of rca's
  9. for 2 12" subs in a cabin as large as a yukon.... that would be a SOLID number IMO. The subs are underpowered so a little more might put it even higher . quit screwing around and do the testing / post the scores !!
  10. Most peak at 46 or so... Ill call a 149 based on power and cone area. depends how its metered also. So a 147 on the dash and 149 in the kick.
  11. Thanks bud! looking back on all the pictures I realize how many more I have that I didn't upload. I still have pictures of the other side running the speaker wire and RCA's and all kinds of other little small pictures. Sometimes I just get impatient with this picture hosting sites and think "EH it won't matter that much" .. Like i load 80 pics onto the site in order and then the site uploads them in a ducky kind of way where they are out of order and only 2/3 are there. But anyways. Yeah thank you! she did an awesome job. if you could see under the panel where that sits it has NO clearance. Like Mazda said... "What is the exact mounting depth of that JL bass knob? lets leave that much room incase anyone wants to install a bad ass system in this 2016 mazda 6" - talk about lucky... and it looks and feels awesome. I JUST WANT THIS SYSTEM TO BE IN AND PLAYINGGGGGGGG... Ehhrhghggg. But alas... I will only be happy with my best work and that takes time. SO keep tuned. Im trying to make all the progress I can on this thing for both the build log and my own satisfaction.
  12. Here is the 2/0 running under the hood. I will address these later. For now I just coiled them up under the hood and I will deal with routing and connecting them on a different date. Then I installed the northstar g 35 in the stock location with the stock connectors... and had an idea for fuse block location. So i removed the stock fuse block and routed the wire under it. I think it will look pretty sick right here. Oh remember this little idea? Well i cut it out on to wood and started messing around a little. Taking shape. and BAM. I think im going to do every panel like this. at least all the small ones where stuff mounts. Regardless if you can see it or not... a little sanding, stain, and clear goes a long way.. Starting the construction of the box also. Here is the top of the box laid for dimensions and fitment. I then couldn't help myself but to put all my equipment in its mock location. The red amplifier will be flush mounted in the floor with some way to see it, and the white amps and battery will likely have some kind of beauty panel covering them with a small window. But here are some pictures. As you can see the trunk will be a little tight but I feel with the amplifier flush mounted and the sides all paneled off it will still be somewhat useable and VERY presentable. Here are some more details on the box. This thing is HUGE.. 4.8 cubes after ALL displacements tuned to 30hz. The main function will be for sound quality (so a flat response with a strong bottom end) and I will likely have two presets for the DSP. a SQ and a SPL preset because I have a feeling it will get loud. This isn't clear coated yet, but the panels of the box are all cut. They need to be glued, screwed, PL'd, cleared... and then Ill have a box. Im planning on wrapping it in black carpet unless I can find an OEM looking carpet similar to my trunk liner. and thats about all folks. So basically I installed the front battery. Ran every wire from front to back (leaving it either front or back for later installation) then deadened the whole interior and installed both my DSP units where they will live. Still yet to come is 1) deadening in all 4 doors 2) installing my 3 way set up 3) deadening the rear deck 4) finishing the box 5) build all the trunk panels and stuff so everything has its place and looks good 6) wire up the trunk 7) connect the speed wire to the factory system connect the stuff under the hood 9) ???????????????? Just get it done already LOL. Leave some love guys. I appreciate it. It motivates me to work on my stuff and also to take the time to post pictures on here.
  13. Forgot a picture of the floor deadened with CDL and some Luxary Liner pro laid down. I did this same treatment on both sides. I still have more but the fitment of this car is TIGHT so i did not want to just go laying expensive vinyl all crazy just to remove it later. The volt meters temporary home. I want to fab up a small plate that fits in this location for it. But for now its chilling there all wired up. On the topic of that Volt meter / DSP cluster. Here it is. It is 14ga primary OFC, RED, BLACK, WHITE, BLUE...twisted using the drill method and then wrapped in Exterior Tesa Tape. Back to the volt meter install. This is where I pulled it through. I used some of the Tesa sticky foam tape to route it along the inside of the console. You will see this tape used a lot. Its white and cloth like but the adhesive is SERIOUS. You will see a few pictures of it holding 2 runs of 2/0 welding cable. LOL. Anyways. Its great stuff. Everything in the car is secured using Tesa Tape of some kind.. After I deadened the floor with CDL I decided to run my wiring on the opposite sides of the car. In this picture you can see my 2 runs of 2/0 welding cable... tech flexed in different colors for identification reasons and nicely routed up the driver side. I secured them every 6 inches or so... Now this picture looks simple but there is a ton of work to get what you see here. If you look carefully you will see a bundle of speaker wire Tesa Taped up above along OEM wiring and you will see the 2/0 runs routed very cleanly around the kick panel and up to the firewall grommets. Oh and my awesome girlfriend flush mounted my JL control knob for me. Looks AWESOME.
  14. Well its that time again. I took the 4 day thanksgiving weekend and worked on my car some more. I got a TON done. Id say the car is over half way from being done. Also... SHOUT OUT to mazda for being such a awesome car manufacture. You will see in the pictures shortly but this car was practically made for the wiring and equipment that I installed this weekend. It worked beautifully. anyways... picture time. There is a lot. This was where I started in the morning. Then I started ripping out the interior and laying down some sound deadening. The floor of this car won't need much. I chose to do about a 70% coverage in this area with 2-4 layers of deadener depending on what "felt right". Ever wonder what a entire 2016 mazda 6 interior looks like in a small room? Well now you can mark it off your list. You can see here I put some Overkill pro between the stock AC ducts. They rattled around a little too much for my liking so this is how It went. I also found some gaps in the B pillars that I put a bunch of foam into. This was mainly just to stop sounds from echoing around inside it. Needed a break so i went and soldered up my VM1 inside so I could run the wire and tap into my DSP / volt meter cluster.
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