Swordlordboy1234

Very nice. That did pretty well sealed up. most vehicles I've seen are 2+ db difference between legal and outlaw

for 2 12" subs in a cabin as large as a yukon.... that would be a SOLID number IMO. The subs are underpowered so a little more might put it even higher . quit screwing around and do the testing / post the scores !!

Most peak at 46 or so... Ill call a 149 based on power and cone area. depends how its metered also. So a 147 on the dash and 149 in the kick.

Do you have a preferred brand of LED's?

I dont personally watch sports but im glad the Cubs broke the curse. Side note.. Second skin, hats off to you for offering things like this to your customers and fan base. Its things like this (combined with top notch customer service, discounted sales, and highest quality products) that will insure you guys are around to sell me deadener for my 2036, not just my 2016

well damn...

Sorry Pasta Prime, we don't extend out the sale dates. SMD forum members get it a day early already which was Friday instead of Saturday like the general public. You luckily got the last 2 B Stock Damplifier products which are already discounted at 30% off A Stock. The 3 forty pounders that were left sold to SMD customers too, on Friday though. Let us know in DM next time you need to order and I will get you a discount code to use for the missed deal (just remind me in the message). Have a great day dude!! Secondskin always helping out loyal customers. No wonder I keep coming back with big orders.

Since you have space to kill I would say try to down fire the subs. I have had great success with the subs and port 90 deg out of phase with the subs loading on the floor. So a sub down port forward under the seat box? Also 800RMS on 2 SA 8's i think that is under powering a little but that would be fine. Another factor in terms of subs is how power vs box size works together. Theoretically you could run less power and build a larger spec box and still get the subs to the proper peak to peak throw for optimal output. Anyways. Play around with numbers and see if a 2 8's down fire ported box would work for you bud.

So does a $1000 dollar order qualify ? I guess it does because you guys sent me a UPS confirmation for 120lbs headed to my house

Well... some people get it and some people dont. I once had someone argue with me to the point of making a $100 bet about his "Diamond" box vs a basic (but still custom modeled) box. When I pulled out a term lab, same sub, same amp, same vehicle, same tone sweep...... and showed him the results. Lets just say he never argued with me again. If i remember later Ill make a post about it in my build log with screen shots of the term lab screen.

LOL. The guy in the video. That box would be lucky to have a cube sealed per 12. And then I see a $70 bass amp mounted on the box and all questions were answered. Back on topic for the OP. All you would need to do is adjust the height and depth a little to shrink the box. Take away an inch or two in any direction, account for wood displacement and port displacement and I would be shocked if you had 3.5 cubes of AIR to work with. 3.5 external might be true. Also, you can TUNE a sealed box by volume also. You change the total system Q (speaker compliance vs the box compliance = response) by going smaller or larger. So a smaller sealed box would peak at a higher frequency and have a more camel back looking response then a larger box. A larger box would likely peak at a lower frequency and have a flatter response. But this is very generalized. Box design plays a huge roll in the response curve... Both sealed and ported for every kind of speaker can be modeled and optimized for a particular environment. We also need to consider how much cone area we will have with 2 10's sealed. In the sealed box we will have about 157sq inches of cone to work with but we will only be hearing output from the front side of the cone. In the 2 8's ported we will have closer to 100Sq inches of cone to work with but that will be doubled (sort of) because we get output from the front and the back of the cone. I would decide based on your RMS power... then decide which would be better. In this case I would recommend a properly built and designed 2 8's ported.

dumb question Tony.. will your other amplifiers be as bad ass as the 1500.2?

Hey Ken and Second Skin.. Id love to give them a shot! The rest of my products are awesome. Already left reviews on the site as well.

Can I print this out and require all of my customers to read it first before talking to me? Because I have to deal with them bitching about my prices for those first 5 trips before their car burns down. I know this is likely the wrong place to be talking about shop vs online... But even as a bass head I can see value in having a person to come complain to, a company to handle your returns, and a store to stand behind the warranty on labor.

It sure makes life harder in the world of sales in my shop. Everyone and their brother have between a 1200 and 6000 watt amp and they do like 1/3 of that power in real life. Try selling a JL xd 600/1 for $429 when someone thinks they already have a 1200 watt X brand amp they bought for $129. Even though their amp is 4x the size and does 1/2 the power as the amp I'm trying to sell... I've lost multiple sales because some manufacture puts out far overhyped junk.

Snap on, Matco, Mac, dd1, and a few random but extremely handy tools are in my tool box at work. Next on my list is the amm1 mostly for my personal use, and also to prove all the guys that roll up bangin their boss 4000 watt amps saying how it's better then a zero.1. I basically have 3 bags at work. The 1) every damn install bag. Has a full 1/4 socket set, metric and standard deep and shallow with 2 extensions and a swivel. Snap on wire strippers. Matco 7" diagona cutters. Snap on wireless test light (cool as hell, uses your body as the ground), zip tie only snips, a metal pick, a few panel tools, electrical tape, power probe solder iron and micro torch, a Kline true rms multi meter with a few different lead attachments, my snap on red handle crimpers/cutters, my sky high cable cutters and an extendable magnet. 2) not so often tools. 1/2 socket set (12-22mm), shallow only. A few extensions. Needle nose pliers, a good amount of screw drivers, flat and Philips, Some micro screw drivers, 15' test leads, and a 90deg hex head driver (handy when screwing something in with close quarters). And then I have some off the wall tools but I keep them in with my nice bag. 3) is my catch all tool bag. Any not clean tool or tools that I don't use constantly. Along with a ton of random supplies. Unfortunately since I run digital active and 99% of our customers are passive or have JL amps installed with a 80hz point clearly seen on the dial, the cc1 hasn't made it into my shop yet to justify the price. And the dd1+ is awesome but a bit too fancy for our needs and the regular dd1 does perfect, again 99% of our customers only need a -5 db or a -10db gain overlap, and we use common sense from there. If it looks like/sounds like too much. Back it down. Although when that 10-20,000$ job rolls up looking for a non digital active and some high end stuff that "just -5db" isn't good enough, you best believe we will snag them. The imsg is fresking amazing, another tool I'd like to own just for my personal use but sadly I don't think this will ever make it into our shop with our customer base. Sometimes I hate the professional audio industry, all the shop cares about is the bottom line (for good reason) but I will admit the overall lack of wanting everything to be like a build log with perfect wiring, construction, and set up really kills it for me. Anyways. /rant. Great tools Steve. Hurry and get amm1's in stock so I can snag one!

Let's hope my check on the 2nd is big so I can get my order in.

In for more lulz Edit solid test on a great amp

When your loud you need over 100% coverage. Second skin said in my email that they recommended 200% coverage and a 100% layer of luxury liner pro to keep my car under control. and I'm not even loud. Either it could have been necessary to get the results i described in the email or i was being up sold big time I don't think 100% coverage is a waste at all.

Thorshammer should have a funny middle name like... "Thors **Disregards-recommended-operation** Hammer"