Swordlordboy1234
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Posts posted by Swordlordboy1234
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Most peak at 46 or so... Ill call a 149 based on power and cone area. depends how its metered also. So a 147 on the dash and 149 in the kick.
for 2 12" subs in a cabin as large as a yukon.... that would be a SOLID number IMO. The subs are underpowered so a little more might put it even higher
.quit screwing around and do the testing / post the scores !!
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Most peak at 46 or so... Ill call a 149 based on power and cone area. depends how its metered also. So a 147 on the dash and 149 in the kick.
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Do you have a preferred brand of LED's?
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I dont personally watch sports but im glad the Cubs broke the curse.
Side note.. Second skin, hats off to you for offering things like this to your customers and fan base. Its things like this (combined with top notch customer service, discounted sales, and highest quality products) that will insure you guys are around to sell me deadener for my 2036, not just my 2016
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Does it apply to the two b stock packs I ordered last night?
Sorry Pasta Prime, we don't extend out the sale dates. SMD forum members get it a day early already which was Friday instead of Saturday like the general public. You luckily got the last 2 B Stock Damplifier products which are already discounted at 30% off A Stock. The 3 forty pounders that were left sold to SMD customers too, on Friday though. Let us know in DM next time you need to order and I will get you a discount code to use for the missed deal (just remind me in the message). Have a great day dude!!
Secondskin always helping out loyal customers. No wonder I keep coming back with big orders.
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The 3.2 cubes is after raising the seat 2.5 inches. And that's based on an outifre box not a downfire. Downfire costs a lot of volume because of the space needed between floor and sub.
Since you have space to kill I would say try to down fire the subs. I have had great success with the subs and port 90 deg out of phase with the subs loading on the floor. So a sub down port forward under the seat box?
Also 800RMS on 2 SA 8's i think that is under powering a little but that would be fine. Another factor in terms of subs is how power vs box size works together. Theoretically you could run less power and build a larger spec box and still get the subs to the proper peak to peak throw for optimal output.
Anyways. Play around with numbers and see if a 2 8's down fire ported box would work for you bud.
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So does a $1000 dollar order qualify ? I guess it does because you guys sent me a UPS confirmation for 120lbs headed to my house
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We are on the same page. A while back I got my ass handed to me when I stated that I tuned my sealed enclosure. lol
Well... some people get it and some people dont. I once had someone argue with me to the point of making a $100 bet about his "Diamond" box vs a basic (but still custom modeled) box. When I pulled out a term lab, same sub, same amp, same vehicle, same tone sweep...... and showed him the results. Lets just say he never argued with me again. If i remember later Ill make a post about it in my build log with screen shots of the term lab screen.
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LOL. The guy in the video.
That box would be lucky to have a cube sealed per 12. And then I see a $70 bass amp mounted on the box and all questions were answered.
Back on topic for the OP. All you would need to do is adjust the height and depth a little to shrink the box. Take away an inch or two in any direction, account for wood displacement and port displacement and I would be shocked if you had 3.5 cubes of AIR to work with. 3.5 external might be true.
Also, you can TUNE a sealed box by volume also. You change the total system Q (speaker compliance vs the box compliance = response) by going smaller or larger. So a smaller sealed box would peak at a higher frequency and have a more camel back looking response then a larger box. A larger box would likely peak at a lower frequency and have a flatter response. But this is very generalized. Box design plays a huge roll in the response curve... Both sealed and ported for every kind of speaker can be modeled and optimized for a particular environment.
We also need to consider how much cone area we will have with 2 10's sealed. In the sealed box we will have about 157sq inches of cone to work with but we will only be hearing output from the front side of the cone. In the 2 8's ported we will have closer to 100Sq inches of cone to work with but that will be doubled (sort of) because we get output from the front and the back of the cone. I would decide based on your RMS power... then decide which would be better. In this case I would recommend a properly built and designed 2 8's ported.
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dumb question Tony..
will your other amplifiers be as bad ass as the 1500.2?
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Hey Ken and Second Skin.. Id love to give them a shot! The rest of my products are awesome. Already left reviews on the site as well.
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Morally.... I think it's bullshit. It's flat out misleading the uninformed consumer and tricking them into buying it.
The whole "good for the money" thing is suspect too. Is it good for the money? Chances are that an amp with an inflated rating isn't going to be a quality piece of gear. So yeah... you get 1,000w for $100, but for how long? And with what sort of efficiency?
Say you spend $100 on a "4,000w" amp that only does 1k. On the surface it seems like it's a good buy. BUT.. the thing is 40% efficient and drawing 2k worth of current. Your lights dim and now you buy another bullshit marketing piece- a cap. Now you're out $100 for the amp and $100 for the cap (or whatever those things cost) and your electrical is still lacking. You're straining your alt and digging an early grave for it. You're chuggin along in the 11's and now since the amp is low quality, it pops. So, what do you do? Repair it for $150? Nope, it goes in the garbage and you buy another one. $100+$100+$100... now you're $300 deep and still only have a crap 1k and subpar electrical. The new amp is still killing your factory 90A alt and it finally dies. Now you're stranded on the side of the road and hopefully didn't burn up anything on the car in the process. Hopefully you have roadside assistance, but if not... you have to pay for a tow. That's 150 bucks. Add another 150 bucks for a new factory alt. Now you're $600 in for a crap 1k and subpar electrical. But now you have a lifetime warranty on your AutoZone reman alt so that's good. You're back on the road and back wangin. But since you're the kind of guy who buys a "4,000w" amp for 100 bucks... you got the Install Bay "4awg" CCA kit and the grossly oversized fuse. It melts and you need a new fuse holder. Chalk up another 20 bucks. You figure it's good to go now and just wang out. You didn't spring for a dash mount voltmeter so you have no idea you're in the 10's when you're demo'ing and that melted fuse holder starts a fire under the hood because your 150A fuse is allowing way too much current for the crappy 8awg aluminum wire. Your car burns down and you call your insurance to file a claim. You tell them what happened and the insurance adjuster is a car audio guy and denies your claim because he knows you overfused subpar electrical with crap wire running a crap, inefficient amp.
You spent $620 and lost a car... but at least the amp was "good for the money".
Can I print this out and require all of my customers to read it first before talking to me? Because I have to deal with them bitching about my prices for those first 5 trips before their car burns down. I know this is likely the wrong place to be talking about shop vs online... But even as a bass head I can see value in having a person to come complain to, a company to handle your returns, and a store to stand behind the warranty on labor.
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It sure makes life harder in the world of sales in my shop. Everyone and their brother have between a 1200 and 6000 watt amp and they do like 1/3 of that power in real life.
Try selling a JL xd 600/1 for $429 when someone thinks they already have a 1200 watt X brand amp they bought for $129. Even though their amp is 4x the size and does 1/2 the power as the amp I'm trying to sell... I've lost multiple sales because some manufacture puts out far overhyped junk.
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Snap on, Matco, Mac, dd1, and a few random but extremely handy tools are in my tool box at work. Next on my list is the amm1 mostly for my personal use, and also to prove all the guys that roll up bangin their boss 4000 watt amps saying how it's better then a zero.1. I basically have 3 bags at work.
The
1) every damn install bag. Has a full 1/4 socket set, metric and standard deep and shallow with 2 extensions and a swivel. Snap on wire strippers. Matco 7" diagona cutters. Snap on wireless test light (cool as hell, uses your body as the ground), zip tie only snips, a metal pick, a few panel tools, electrical tape, power probe solder iron and micro torch, a Kline true rms multi meter with a few different lead attachments, my snap on red handle crimpers/cutters, my sky high cable cutters and an extendable magnet.
2) not so often tools. 1/2 socket set (12-22mm), shallow only. A few extensions. Needle nose pliers, a good amount of screw drivers, flat and Philips, Some micro screw drivers, 15' test leads, and a 90deg hex head driver (handy when screwing something in with close quarters). And then I have some off the wall tools but I keep them in with my nice bag.
3) is my catch all tool bag. Any not clean tool or tools that I don't use constantly. Along with a ton of random supplies.
Unfortunately since I run digital active and 99% of our customers are passive or have JL amps installed with a 80hz point clearly seen on the dial, the cc1 hasn't made it into my shop yet to justify the price. And the dd1+ is awesome but a bit too fancy for our needs and the regular dd1 does perfect, again 99% of our customers only need a -5 db or a -10db gain overlap, and we use common sense from there. If it looks like/sounds like too much. Back it down. Although when that 10-20,000$ job rolls up looking for a non digital active and some high end stuff that "just -5db" isn't good enough, you best believe we will snag them.
The imsg is fresking amazing, another tool I'd like to own just for my personal use but sadly I don't think this will ever make it into our shop with our customer base.
Sometimes I hate the professional audio industry, all the shop cares about is the bottom line (for good reason) but I will admit the overall lack of wanting everything to be like a build log with perfect wiring, construction, and set up really kills it for me.
Anyways. /rant. Great tools Steve. Hurry and get amm1's in stock so I can snag one!
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Let's hope my check on the 2nd is big so I can get my order in.
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In for more lulz
Edit solid test on a great amp
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When your loud you need over 100% coverage. Second skin said in my email that they recommended 200% coverage and a 100% layer of luxury liner pro to keep my car under control. and I'm not even loud. Either it could have been necessary to get the results i described in the email or i was being up sold big time
I don't think 100% coverage is a waste at all.
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Thorshammer should have a funny middle name like... "Thors **Disregards-recommended-operation** Hammer"
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So if you were to recone subs ....surround and spider and dust caps. What glues would you use? I'm having trouble finding the correct adhesives.
E6000 I've learned wasn't the best choice, and I'm considering 3400lb epoxy now for everything except the dust cap.
Any thoughts?
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Do you have any specific place where you buy your recone supplies from?
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So glad I didn't place an order yesterday. Good deal!
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Well.... If you think about it like this. If someone that was a friend of a friend or not a very close friend but someone you were cool with. And they brought you that car to do what you did to it. I wouldn't think it would be unreasonable for you to be willing to sell it for (car value + equipment + fair labor + materials = sale cost)
You don't hear shops telling guys they won't put rims on their car because it will be worth more then the car, or a mechanic saying that the $500 in tires your putting on it is worth more then the tarcel or something. But thats the custom / aftermarket world we live in.
Im sure as long as its not OVER msrp on all products, and its not some crazy number per hour for labor (like $500 an hour or something), and your not adding years of sentimental value for no clear reason then i don't see a problem with asking for what is a fair trade for the car as it sits.
Just my thoughts.
On another note, anyone who got the "Meade-Me-Downs" on any of your vehicles would have a pretty sweet ride.
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I say you give me a price on it ( with everything in it ) and we'll come back down from maine and pick it up!Hey Steve I've been following you for a while I've seen the Tahoe build and the lexis build and the blue cadi I've LOVE everything that you do I watch all your videos about 1000 times and now to see the son getting in the work AWESOME....what ever happen to that civic that yall had built them 18s loved that too....tuned in for more....Great job JR looking great can't wait to see what eles yall got in store... Are you going to put a Mac PC in the dash like the Tahoe
thanks man!
The Honda got interrupted by the 72 Chevelle project. By the time i finished i lost my motivation again. Hard to stay motivated on a car you don't drive that just sits there. I'm sure ill either get back on it soon or rip it all out and sell the car. I have too many pink slips to deal with i am getting tired of having all these cars taking up space.
i would consider that except i would feel bad about the price i would have to ask. I mean it wouldn't be retarded but it would be more than the car is worth for sure. Plus it would be a pain for you to deal with the air system. It needs an update...or at least some new coil overs all the way around which would be good too. She does only have 62,000 miles iirc though.
Don't we all have systems that are worth more then our cars? I added up what i have in my $2k honda and it totaled about 11k with audio and mechanics stuff. LOL.
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a fun Ported box build for 2 MASSIVE Pride ST 12" Subs - 34hz - Initial Term Lab Testing today (page 7)
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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Very nice. That did pretty well sealed up. most vehicles I've seen are 2+ db difference between legal and outlaw