Swordlordboy1234
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Posts posted by Swordlordboy1234
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CURRENT BUILD.
2 skar ZVX 12's in 3.8 cubes tuned to 31hz
1 skar 2500.1
all sky high wires front to back done nice and clean.
sealed off from the trunk nice and clean. (for a beginner)
and 120 sq feet of AT 60mil
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I can't play below 27hz any more when my current box is tuned to 31? ......FUCK THAT!
Time for subs that can play lower, or something.
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N8 is hacking everybody
But I love it. In for more.
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Put a couple hundred amp load on them both and see how they sit
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That's just nasty loud.
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Mine played way down past 26hz after they broke in tuned to 31. When I first started playing them they could hardly hit 40hz. People want something to really bang with out letting them loosen up? Lol...
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Try their x series. Go 4 (x) 15's and add a second 3000 later. Then post vids so we can fap at multiple X 15's in the same truck
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Waiting for damore to post his video as a response
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this is classic...
guy: what do you have in your car bro?!
you: just 2 12's..
guy: nice nice, well i got 2 15's, JL audio!
you: cool bro, so do you wanna hear my system?
guy: sure, 12's normally hit pretty good, but not like 15's.
you:
^lol
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Final ohm load, extra battery or batteries and a volt meter would be helpful in this situation. Along with a DD1. Any fine adjustment with clipping helps voltage drop. My voltage drop at full tilt went up by .2 yesterday because I tuned with a -7.5db tone instead of -10... No real difference by ear, maybe even better then it was on -10.. And my voltage stays higher.
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This! I think tony would jump on this challenge. His videos are awesome
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Wow..... Moar pics
great job Steve. -
No doubt sundown has great amps that can take ohm loads like that, but with efficiency losses from 1 ohm to .5 ohms. Why would anyone TRY to run .5 ohms unless they are in competition vehicles and have a purpose to do so... Such as an amp# limit, power limit or space limit.
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Don't run at .5 ohms..........just buy a bigger amp if you want more power and follow the manufactures suggestions.
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If it comes out of the negative how does that effect passive crossovers??Did you read what I posted above? You are overthinking this way too much.
The dd-1 detects a signal. That's it. It doesn't matter if it is in phase or 180 degrees reversed. All it sees is a sine wave. In some amps, the signal will come out of the negative terminal instead of the positive one. It's just a design. You don't need to do anything special like reversing your polarity because the manufacturers have already accounted for this. Just wire your speakers up like normal.
If you like the way your setup sounds now after you tweaked with the polarity, that's something different. But to wire everything up in phase all you need to do is wire + to + and - to - lol. Don't over think it
Not sure but I had everything hooked up positive to positive negative to negative.... I even double checked my RCA's and used my fader balance to make sure fading right went to the right side front and back and I also did the same for front to back to make sure nothing was mixed up
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If its any consolation.... Lowering from 60 - 56 resulted in way better everything. My doors are louder, my upper mid bass doesn't distort anymore where I used to hear it slightly. And the bass.... Omg... The bass is stupid loud now.
I think it has to do with the dd1 finding distortion due to my improper level on the headunit, so my gains were lower then they should have been.
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Did you read what I posted above? You are overthinking this way too much.
The dd-1 detects a signal. That's it. It doesn't matter if it is in phase or 180 degrees reversed. All it sees is a sine wave. In some amps, the signal will come out of the negative terminal instead of the positive one. It's just a design. You don't need to do anything special like reversing your polarity because the manufacturers have already accounted for this. Just wire your speakers up like normal.
If you like the way your setup sounds now after you tweaked with the polarity, that's something different. But to wire everything up in phase all you need to do is wire + to + and - to - lol. Don't over think it
It says in the manual to check the negative if you get no signal from the positive.
Well ill switch it back and take a listen. I did the 1 thing your not supposed to do when testing audio..... I changed more then 1 variable. Lol...
I changed the volume point on my headunit to a known cleaner signal, I changed my gain settings to match my new deck level, and I changed the polarity of 2 of the channels according to the DD1.... So I guess I should switch between on polarity and off polarity and take a listen to pink Floyd the wall, and maybe some Michael Jackson (my go to SQ songs) lol
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I've read the DD1 manual multiple times but I didn't see anything about polarity. I seen stuff about compensating for regulated and unregulated amplifiers. Does anyone know where that info would be in the manual about the dd1 detecting polarity wrong using the 1khz tone?
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First 8ight i disagree. becauae 4 of the terminals i get no signal... and 4 of the terminals i get signal... If the dd1 only reads the positive signal.. Then that means the positive ones are the only ones who give out signal. The signal isn't being shared over different terminals.
But what messes me up is maybe I have a switch on the 4/2 ch operation messed up. Because the outside diagram I hooked it up + - + - ect... But I never had ANY mid bass at all. And I switch it around according to what my dd1 says by detecting the signal since it can't detect from the negative terminal... After I switch it it sounds way better.
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So recently I found out my headunit clips at 56/62 not 60/62. My DD1 said it wasn't clipping but I could hear distortion on my 1k tone after 56 just not very loud. So I re set my gains on 56/62 and unplugged all the negative speaker wires out of my t600-4... After that I grounded the dd1 and proceeded to plug my positive probe on the positive terminal for ch1... It worked... But then when I did that to channel 3.... The light didn't detect 1k on the "+" terminal.... So I did the positive of ch4 and the same thing..... No light... Just out of curious its I plugged it in the negative terminals for those channels and I got 1khz detect! So when I thought my terminals went + - + - + - + - .... They actually go + - - + + - - +.... So for months not only was I clipping my signal but my speakers were out of polarity... So I got a cleaner sund and less cancelation by using the DD1.... Say hello to mid bass
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Where are you reading your voltage from? If it's not at the amp you need to check it there
I'm interested in that 7.5db track. JS
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all the 3500s only have one power and ground.
the aq v1
saz3500
bc3500
dc3.5k
its about the limit for the one power and ground run though.
That's why you call up tool maker
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I got mine from Robin Butler, Iamapimp3 or something here on SMD. Ask him maybe
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This is me getting mind fucked by this amazing offer...... now the question is.... where to put steves meter?
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great job Steve. 
sk 2500.1 Dual Input Fusing
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
Posted
I did 2 250amp fuses. Because your fusing to protect the wire. Say one wire shorts out... My wire is good for 250+. SHCA 1/0 CCA. Your not fusing to protect from power (splitting the amp rating) your fusing to protect the wire from carrying too much or shorting