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TexasJesse

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  1. I'm running 4600wrms so I did the Big 3 and two runs of 1/0awg all with OFC wire. I also have an XS D3400 battery and a Mechman 270a alternator. Looking into a possible 2nd XS D3400 battery depending on how well this battery holds up as they claim it will handle a 4000-5000 watt system, which I am skeptical, although XS is a great company and one of the 2 manufacturers of batteries I would go with. With a 1500wrms amp, thats not too much power. I would recommend doing the Big 3 and an XS Battery to replace your current battery. Figure out what Group Size battery your battery is and go with that XS battery. They have a wide variety of Group size batteries. My Group size battery for my pickup is a Group 34, so for it to fit, I went with their D3400. If you have a Group 31 Battery, then go with their D3100 and so on. You dont need an HO alternator for 1500wrms. You could even add a second battery such as an Optima and keep your second battery to keep the cost down since you arent running tons of wattage. You aren't demanding much from your electrical system once you do the Big 3 and run either 4 gauge OFC power wire or 1/0 OCC power wire at minimum.
  2. I didnt read through all of the replies, but I had the same issue. What I did was add a volt and amp meter in between. It connected them and I was able to run the extra run of 1/0 wire that I needed. I mounted the meter to my subwoofer box so I could see the amp and voltage, but the the issue is, I would have to be on the passenger side of my rear door to see it. I got it for the issue that you are running into, not so I could see the meter, but it did its job. You wont loose any amperage or voltage. Only amperage or voltage loss would be from the length of your wire, which I experienced at .4 volts. But Im not sure how accurate that was, because the voltage meter I was using at the battery, was one of those blue LED digital voltage meters you can get for $12 off of ebay, so no telling if its dialed in or not. Either way, that's what I would do. Plus if its in the right spot, you can see your voltage and amperage. Its made by XScorpion. Its a XScorpion DAV02P. Pretty cheap solution for $25. Here it is http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38978_Xscorpion-DAV02P.html
  3. What is giving you the problem fitting the 1/0awg cable through the firewall exactly? I highly recommend not running your wire outside of the vehicle. There are numerous things that could cause a slice through the insulation and shorting out on your frame. Plus it will deteriorate much faster due to weather conditions.
  4. They are less than just a middle man. Actually, if we want to get technical, they are an aggregator. 95% of banks and processors won't accept aggregators due to the risk involved plus many other reasons. Visa and MasterCard do not like aggregators at all. That's why there are a limited amount of options to Paypal, if any at all. Paypal struggled to get their aggregated account set up. They had to search for years to find an payment processor that had an acquiring bank that would accept an aggregated account. Paypal has a merchant account, therefor Paypal is a merchant account. So Paypal sets up merchant accounts for everyone else including individuals and merchants. Processors and Acquiring Banks want each individual to have their own merchant account, which means they need their own MID (Merchant Identification Number.) They aren't an acquiring bank, a processor, an ISO, or even a third party processor, let alone even a reseller. So with so many middle men involved, there are obviously so many downsides to using Paypal as a merchant, one of them being so many middle men involved, high rates, deposit times, etc... Sure, its easy, but so much hassle that comes with it when it comes to your own business, let alone that your customers have to have Paypal. There are alot of people who hate Paypal and for good reasons. There is even a website dedicated for how much Paypal sucks. Ironically, the web address is www.paypalsucks.com lol Paypal sucks. I won't ever buy a product from a company that doesn't have their own merchant account and only uses Paypal. Too much hassle and I use Paypal unless I have to. I have actually thought about getting my own merchant account for Ebay use, therefor not having to deal with Paypal, their ridiculous holds on my payments, insane fees, deposits, but I don't sell on Ebay as much as I use to. I could also use a merchant account through an ISO to sell items on message boards where the customer doesn't have to have a Paypal account. They just pay through an online shopping cart and redirected to an SSL Secure Online Payment Portal such as Authorize.net. Then once the payment is sent through, it goes through the ISO and Processor where most ISO's will deposit my funds directly into my checking account in 24 hours. If I ever decide to set up my own Merchant Account, I'm going with Encore Payment Systems out of Addison, TX. You have to be VERY careful when shopping for a merchant account provider as many will screw you with hidden fees, the salesman will lie, ISO will change your rates after 60-90 days and you are stuck with their 2 year contract. Encore charges a $250 cancellation fee, which use to be common, but alot of ISO's have raised their cancellation fees. I cant count how many times I have seen cancellation fees in upwards of $1000+. Don't even get me started on equipment leasing, but this doesn't apply to ECommerce merchants (Online Merchants) as leasing equipment is for equipment terminals, POS systems, check processing equipment, swipers, etc... Many ISO's such as Encore have even developed their own online payment gateway; similar to Authorize.net. If anyone has a business and needs some insight, advice, help, etc.. with their existing merchant account or obtaining a new merchant account, hit me up. I have been in the industry for 7 years. I have worked for 4 ISO's and only found one that was ethical. 90% of the ISO's out there are unethical as I have seen most statements from other ISO's where they are screwing merchants and we switch them over. Never did we, Encore, ever change rates or have hidden fees. I actually had the opportunity to come back to Encore, where I worked for the first 4 years in the industry. Never should have left. I had a severe car accident where I was unable to work for a year. They donated 100 hours of PTO, half of PTO was paid and the other 50 hours was given to me, on top of what I accrued while I was out because they kept me active. NOW thats a GOOD company. They hired a temp employee so that when I returned, I had a job waiting for me. They visited me in the hospital. I recently exited the industry and no longer work for any ISO's, but still have knowledge as I have worked in many departments including inside and outside sales management, business development, operations, leasing, program management, project management, ran a a couple of sub ISO departments and more. I was a man who wore many hats. I could go on and on about aggregated accounts and why its better, cheaper, safer, etc... to just have a merchant account with a good ISO (Independent Sales Organization or aka reseller.) But I won't, although I already have and I have gone WAY off topic here. My apologies.
  5. Well I sent the money on Wednesday. It's already been taken out of my bank account. When I talked to Paypal yesterday, they said they have to wait to refund me my money once it clears their bank. It ticks me off. Sending the funds through my bank account is an instant transfer and the merchant receives the funds immediately while the funds clear. However when the merchant refunds the money, they have to wait for it to clear their bank account before I receive my money. I dont get why they can cover my funds to the merchant, but they wont cover the refund. To me, its a wash. I have been in the credit card processing industry for years. Alot of merchant's go with Paypal, which we sell them on all of the downfalls of Paypal such as chargebacks, high transaction rate (over 3%), deposits, customer service, etc... Dont know why AutoToys.com doesnt have a payment processor instead of Paypal. I would call them to switch them, but they dont have a phone number to reach them at. Inquires are done by email. So when I saw that I had to go through Paypal instead of taking the payment through their online portal like Authorize.net with their own merchant processing account, I was like, ugh.. really? Great.
  6. I am doing an install in his cousins 2011 Dodge Ram in a FoxBox ported box with either dual Sundown Audio SA-10's or SA12's. Haven't decided yet, but the 15001D will power either of those perfectly. Those Dodge Ram's are tough to build a box for, if you haven't seen what's underneath the seats, google it. If you have, then you know what I mean. So thats a load off my mind, is having to build a box for his truck. I emailed them to see if they could take the dual 12 box they sell and cut out 4 8" subwoofer holes, but they replied and said that they mass produce their boxes so they would be unable to do it. So its either go with 2 10's or 2 12's. He wants the same subs I have, so I will have to present it to him with two SA-10's or 12's or I would have to do some major altering to design the top of it from two 12's to 4 8's. One major problem is... that FoxBox coats their boxes with Line-X, so I think thats out of the question. I think two SA-12's is going to sound just as good, if not better. Sundown Audio recommendations are only off from the box by .09 cu ft net per sub. They recommend 1.5 cu ft of airspace. The FoxBox is 1.55 cu ft of airspace per chamber, tuned at 35hz, which is exactly what SA recommends on tuning. I dont think .09 cu ft net is going to matter much. Their Dual 10 box has less airspace. I dont understand why that is.. I would figure they would have the same air space, just cut with a 12" subwoofer holes. He heard of Sundown Audio before and then he heard my 4 Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL versions underneath my seats, with a 3" seat raise, in a 3 cu ft net ported box tuned to 31hz off of my two Audiopipe AP18001D's. One 18001D's to 2 SA-8 V.2's each. My 3" seat raise is for sale by the way. Its for the NNBS 2007+ Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Crew Cabs. I did alot of research on matals and materials. So I ordered the metal. Its made out of T6-6061 square aircraft grade aluminum blocks. If anyone has any experience installing a subwoofer setup in the NBS Dodge Ram Quad Cab's, please chime in. Same goes with FoxBox in a Ram. He is pretty set on running Sundown as I am also. So once we get started on the build, I will be uploading the pictures on my Photobucket and will be posting them on here. But like I said, if you have experience with these pickups, please chime in.
  7. So I purchased a pair of Q-Logic kick panels to add some Focal Performance PS165 components that the same friend is selling to me. I purchased them, then AutoToys refunded the money back to me, which I still havent received thanks to Paypal, because they ran out of stock. So I went to the 2nd lowest priced store. I emailed the emailed them to ask a question and they said that they are out of stock. I refreshed the page and it was taken off. So Im pretty pissed. Im glad I didnt order them. 1. because I havent received my refund back, FU Paypal, and 2. because they didnt have them in stock either. Im thinking there is a shortage of these all around right now. Did the stereo install in his Ford Escape and he bought a new 2012 F-150 2 months later. Since I run Focal's all around, Focal Utopia's up front and Focal K2P's with a Digital Designs T1 silk dome tweeter in the rear, I figured this would be a great opportunity to add to my front stage. I think I am going to run my Focal PS165's and the Focal K2P's off of my Audiopipe AQX360.4 (125wrms x 4 @ 4 ohm) and run my Focal Utopia's in my doors off of the Phoenix Gold Tantrum that I use to own. Its rated 125wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms, but is underrated and puts out more power than the Audiopipe, from my experience when I use to run the amp. I love that amp. Told myself I would never sell it, but it was my best friend and I needed money to order my Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 Stock SPL 8" subs. So I'm glad to get the amp back. So lets just say that my back wall amp rack is going to be VERY cramped. I'm having issues trying to figure out where to mount my 2 Audiopipe 18001D's, Audiopipe AQX360.4, PG Tantrum 500.2, 400w power inverter, two distribution blocks, and 3 inline fuse holders. So I have all of his stereo equipment here. Lets just say, it took me a couple of days to design his sub box and I got it right. He was running two Infinity Kappa Perfect 10's and WOW. That thing impressed the hell out of me. I purchased an Audiopipe 15001D. He wants me to sell all of his audio equipment so Im probably going to buy off his 4 gauge power and ground wire for the 4 channel amp and the 2 channel amp, buy his 2 distribution blocks, JL Audio inline fuse holder, Focal PS165 Comps, and buy back my PG Tantrum 500.2. So all I need to sell is his Infinity Kappa Perfect 10's that have 3 different pole inserts and his Audiopipe 1500.1. I think I already have his AP 15001D sold, as I am doing an install in his cousins 2011 Dodge Ram in a FoxBox ported box with either dual Sundown Audio SA-10's or SA12's. Haven't decided yet, but the 15001D will power either of those perfectly. Those Dodge Ram's are tough to build a box for, if you haven't seen what's underneath the seats, google it. If you have, then you know what I mean. So thats a load off my mind, is having to build a box for his truck. I am also doing a stereo for his other cousin's boat. Its one of those Yamaha Jet Boats. I think its a 230 H.O. 20 something footer with dual engines. Since its a jet boat, it doesnt have alternators. So we are going to add alot of batteries as the stereo I have on my spreadsheet is going to run some serious wattage and would kill whatever charging system he has. We looked for alternators and couldnt find one. They have something called an ACR. I read just a tad and what I could gather from it, its some sort of relay switch for the charging system, but I dont get how it charges if there is no alternator. I have never done a stereo in a Jet Boat. Anyway, just rambling I guess. Figured someone would be interested in this. Im going to post a new thread on my next stereo installs that I just mentioned above incase you want to read. I think its worth checking out as the boat is going to be ridiculous. So you can read more on the install on the Dodge Ram and the Jet Boat.
  8. Wow, that must have sucked. I'm going to make sure the relay is mounted on the amp rack so that incase anything like that happens, it can be easily accessible. How many amplifiers do you think a remote wire can handle before resorting to a relay? Asking this for future reference for upcoming stereo installs. I have never ran anymore than 3 amplifiers. I'm adding a 4th amplifier that my friend is selling back to me. I dont want to damage my $1500 navigation unit, so Im going to do it anyway since I'm going to be running LED's in both slot ports, then multiple LED LED strips to light up my amplifiers, crossovers, distribution blocks, and inline fuse holders on my back amp rack. I know LED's dont draw that much current, but I think running 4 amps and all of the LED's would tax that single remote turn on wire.
  9. Thanks for the info. I want to eliminate the switch. I want it to activate from my turn on wire from my head unit. So I guess I should hook up my remote turn on wire to 85 and then 87 to my amps and LED's, correct?
  10. Hey guys, I purchased a 12 Relay system that looks like it was designed to run accessory headlights and whatnot. Obviously this can be used for other things, but what I am wanting to use it for is to hook up a bunch of my LED strips that I have. What I want to do, is bypass the switch. I want it to be triggered by the amp remote turn on. I am also wanting to use this for my remote wires. Im not sure how many amplifiers a single remote wire can handle from an Aftermarket source, but I am running 2 subwoofer amps, 1 4 channel amp and will be adding a second 2 channel amp. So 4 amps total and then I want to run several LED strips. I dont want to run my LED's and my 4 amps off of the remote turn on wire as I am pretty sure that is asking too much power to be supplied. So like I said, it has a switch, but I want to bypass the switch. I have absolutely no knowledge of relays. So being as detailed as possible will help. Here is what I have. I'm not even sure if I have it wired up correctly. lol Your help is much appreciated. Please help
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