john253a
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Posts posted by john253a
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arent you supposed to have the speakers vertical, not horizontal? because the one closer to the port is "farther away" internally than the other one.
That is correct,
Also the port length is not from wall it's from furthest edge of sub
Bu I like to use the centre of sub
Secondly 1 sub is going to unload more then the other due to firing down the port
And there's no port restriction to, normal you'll build you the wall with another 3/4 to assist is pressure differences, making it a more free flowing box
But all this in a perfict world, witch we are not
I don't think you'll notice it to much sq wish and I will still sound good
Just keep the power low and you'll be fine
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My 1.5
Had em on 1k now 400,
It's not as loud but pisses more people off
Little subs on no power, that get low and loud
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you can just fit in with a 3" port\
12w 12h 14d
3" x 30" long port with 3x90deg bends
front to back, left to right, up, then right to left again
you wont be able to use psp ports as there flare is to big, but youll be able to make one with a smaller flare or use it straight
if you 14" is width then you will fit a psp port in
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Thanks
will def look into tonigh,
As this will be the biggest decider on the build going ahead,
Already got prices on subs and the price changes heap as you ask for more,
Once I find an amp, then I'm lock in numbers
As I've got about 33gross with 1.5" to work with
96d x42w x18h
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Can't get the warhourse like custome wanted into aust with dropping 10k and buying it here
Any reliable options under 2g
The aq3500.1 strapped is 7k for 2g+shipping
The ns1 or 2x 3500.1 is out of the budget,
Not in a big hurry as the build might fall through,
It's not my build but customers wants 40-50 kicker cvt8 subs seales in 20cuft I'm trying to talk him into 40-50 iso in 16 ported,
Myself I don't ever see this size of build happing or fitting in the back of his truck,
But his determined to try
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I'll have to check when I'm home, but what hz you want will most Likly determin that
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warranty outside of the usa is often a big problem,
i stick with known brands for this reason, because its normally a manufacturers warranty, and not a distributor warranty,
with unknown brands the freight alone normally means it cheaper to buy another and through away what you have,
for example i brought 2 sub from a well known distributor, and a simple accident was made, wrong series of sub was send,
they were happy to fix the problem, but shipping is covered by the customer (when outside of usa)
at 400 for 2 sub and 500shipping each way i was not paying 1k ontop of my 900 to get the sub right
i onsold what i had and brought them again for 900, the only thing i did get was a refund for the difference,
so what ever you chose or decide to go with, look into it first and know all your options
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if you have no building skills or have no way of getting one build
RF p3 dual 12" enclosure
http://www.sonicelec...te-P3-2X12.html
and power it with RF T1500
http://www.sonicelec...2010-Model.html
if you use the make an offer its just under $1400 shipped to Norway for both
you may be able to get it cheaper local, as i dont no if you get ripped like the rest of the world
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is there people with building skills near you, or a shop that can build for you
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def get the q, it an sq monster, gets down and loud, but as said before
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There is no correct answer for that,
In the end it's what u want and can aford,
First you need to answer some question
What do you have already?
Budget for sub and amp if you not have amp?
Meserments of avaible space?
What do u want to achieve?
Box building skills?
Right now i have a pioneer cd player. I was thinking about 1500-2500$ or more? Dont have so mutch available space, because its a small car..
I want to achieve smooth bass, loud etc..
I dont have any building skills!
And i have NO idea what my trunk dimensions are.... but maybe this picture will help?
http://www.bilforume...kt-dsc02178.jpg
Btw, this was my old stereo, as you guys can se it was way to big...
its only tooooooooo big if you want to use the trunk,
if you ask me, build the right box for that sub(witch is a lot bigger then that,) face it foward, and seal off the trunk,
then if you dont have the right amp invest in that and some good mid/highs, youll get out for half your budget, and thats with paying someone to build the box for you
that a 15" right
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if you wanted to go a bit higher you could do port back but thats up to you
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There is no correct answer for that,
In the end it's what u want and can aford,
First you need to answer some question
What do you have already?
Budget for sub and amp if you not have amp?
Meserments of avaible space?
What do u want to achieve?
Box building skills?
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Your birth sheet may have said 1650 but in no way will it ever make it
Thats also at 14.4v
So with out a strong elec you'll be 12.8-13.4
So now you'll closer to 13-1400
Then with box rise even less
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And online is normaly more expensive then shops by what I've been told over there,
Every time I put a price up from either shop I'm told my local is this.
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That makes more sence, I'll redraw something
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i had 1 in 7net on 1k and hit pretty hard
i think what he need to realize is the closest this to this in a round sub is an 18" as this has the same cone area as a 17,
so it will require just as much space
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As above
But alot will come down to box but idd say 800
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Audio saving has the 12" new for $570 and the 18" for $850
And sonic has the 15 for $600
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36696_RE-Audio-XXX15D4.html
So if you ask me, why would you by second hand for a 14% saving over new
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Even my crapy kicker cvt8 got down, in a pissy little box
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Sundown E15s....great budget woofer. But as stated in some previous posts....you could be just as loud with a couple 8s or 10s and nail the lows at the same time. Just a thought
Good 8s are expensive and don't hit how low I want and id need a lot to be loud, I'm prob just putting my second 12 in a 3.5 cube box with a cube of port in addition. Unless some buys my amp
I disagree with that,
Not all good 8" are expensive, they only are when you price it on cone area, and not quality,
And as for not hitting low, that's a load of crap mine go down to 25hz no proble (can't go lower factory built in subsonic) an are still loud enought down there that you can fell it in your chest,
The depth that an 8" can go has little to do with the sub but more the enclosers, so if yours never got down its because you tuned it too high
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I'm not sure if I'm getting you
The depth should be from the seat to the rear wall/door
The height is ground to roof
Your seat is on a slant right
If you can make or buy a plumb bob and drop it from the top of seat down and mesure from there to back doors, and is you max depth,
Idd recomemend sub up port back, but to get the most out of them you may need a wall
But double check all the meserment again if you can,
you'll need
Depth from Top of seat to rear door
Depth from Base of seat to rear door
Width between wheel arches(and height)
Depth and location of arches(if you have)
Width above arches
Heigh from floor to roof,lowest point
Height from floor to top of seat
Height from floor to top of head rest
Height to window line
Under 2g for 7k+
in Amplifiers
Posted
its not going in a wall, its in the back of a truck,
easy build if sealed,
its not a car of mine let me make that clear, it is a 19year old appearance at work, im just chasing up and working out all the small details,
he has 5 to play with, and with the aq im under,
ive got prices on 8 and at 40 off
comp im down to $41 (and only need 3500+ rms)
cvr(2011) $62 (but only 30something available)
cvr current $70
cvt current $65
All are + shipping witch im getting quotes for
at the moment im try to talk him into the km10, then it doesnt matter if they stay in the rain