john253a
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Posts posted by john253a
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Have you thought about dropping 2x 6" 17"long psp port through the top, it should be mid 30 in 6.5net and If you remesure and your closer to 8net put 3
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Idd go with either a single 15 or dual 12 with that width
All forward seal off
Z15 v3
Or 2x sa12
Assuming your budget is up to $4-500
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With out running the numbers I already see some problem
36w -(2x15.5") and 1.5"wall "32.5
Only leaves 2.75" width for port
And 38sq" is not enough port for 2x 15's
Yes cone is king on low power but I feel you'll get a better outcome and output form 2x 12"
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The question should be 2x 15 that work well on 500 each
There are a heap of stats that prove that a 2k sub on 500 is not alot louder in the same environment,
You'll find power shows a bigger % incress in db down low but up high,
I can't run any numbers yet
But in 1k there are a lot of options
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Cone is king
But with some exemptions, Xmas
The correct answer is come x Xmas
And he who has the most is king
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Why do they have to be 500 or less,
That's pretty dumb, as you'll rule out some quality equipment,
Noone has ever blown a sub due to under powering,
What's the budged
Amp mdl
Size restriction/space avaible (this is the most important)
Car
Sub/port config if ported or sealed
And what do you want to achive
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Come is king on low power,
2 for sure, you can alway upgrade amp latter, but building a box in glass for another because your not happy with 1 is a pain in the ass
2 and good clean power
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I take it you don't have any subs yet just amp
Myself chose a different sub or coil config
To get the most out of you amp
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Cone area and 2x 450 is 900rms so more power, some cone = spl
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Can't do the maths a I'm mobile
But 180sq" of port slot
145 aero
@35-37hz unless your after an solid sq set up the 28-30hz
And as much space as you can give them up to 14net(including sub displacment)
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The above person in question, requesting help
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there is no best positions,
one may give better numbers where the other better sq,
idd say up/up or subup/portfwd
box design and tune may affect sub/port position, and may the decision easy through little to no choice
post some measurements,
sub, power and overall goal
then let it go from there
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after lookn over the specs idd recomend 3.3-3.5net @29-30hz
what car?
how much power?
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if you have the space 2 is better then one,
here are a few other reasons,
easier to tune and build (a single 8 with a low tune has a monster long port)
better port efficiency if using slot,
more cone area = louder,
flatter response curve
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What do you want to achive with the build?
Any prefances on a tune? Type of music you lission to?
Midbass drivers? yes/no
Meserments?
Max width
Height to seat
Height to head rest
Height to window line
Distance from bottom of seat to rear door
Distance from top of seat to rear door
Rear cargo opening meserment
Amp power and coil configuration?
Big 3?
have you considered a wall? Just cose there badass
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Sa8v2
Gets down, and clear as well, I personal vouch for this, mine tuned at 32-33hz and it still hit hard >26hz,
Power, and box it going to be the key, any sub will get low in a low tune box, but how well do they sound there and will they play over 55hz,
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6th or 8th order
Graph that and you'll see a huge diff
They peek low like at 35 and stay there till 60 them drop
I've got some graphed at home, I can post latter if u want
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My option would be to keep the box under 3gross to maintain any trunk
And in you price range
2x 10" RF p3
1x 10 "RF T1
1x 12" SA12"
All are just under 185-200 including shipping
Bang for buck is 2x 10 as cone is king on low power
But if you want shear quality t1 by RF is the way to
And the sa12 is on par with the t1 just cheaper
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Joe is correct the port length is the overall length and external length is how much protrudes outside the box
Idd reverse the subs
Sealed 1cuft each
Ported 3.7net at 47-49hz 60-64sq" of port
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What size was the port
It may have been 30hz but could be to small
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The sa10 power wise isn't as good as the 8
The 8v2 has next to no Mechanical Limits in the right box, that's why they are badboys of subs,
(just wish there were more like it)
Theis things can take over 3000rms(not daily) each
But love to be on around 800-1k daily in 0.5-0.6cuft
There is one thing I would recomend,
Get 2 and just drive them with what ever you have or can afford,
I ran mine 2 on a zx400.1 then switch to zx1000.1 and the volume differance, (for daily music,not ground pounding) is very minimum, of course when at full tilt that's a different story
But I have since gone back to the zx400.1 (200each) because it pissea more people off that for
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my box is so small and I have full use of my trunk
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There's only 2x 8" and they have the same cone area of 1 10"
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They cream in depth and quality most dual 12" setup
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I do all this on a stock ele with only 400rms and most of them have 1-1500k
Power isn't everything it does help, but the right sub in the right box, will always outperform the wrong sub in the wrong box
If you only have 5-900rms don't worry you'll still love these little badboys, as I said before if you can afford get 2 and just drive them with any thing, theise thinks still get low and loud on 50-100rms(in the right box)
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depending on you space
4x 10 will fit where 2x 12 will and have close to 30% more cone area
so you could do 3x10 and have the same cone area,
it all comes down to what you want, and what you like the look of
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more info is still required,
with dual 12 youll most likely have no trunk left
not sure if i am totally satisfied with my sub setup and unsure which direction to go from here
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
With looking at the specs from mainfactorys,
99% of them recomemend a tune 37+ and a low port/cuft ratio to keep the box as small as possible
Hence people saying a propley designed box
Mainfactorys spec arnt any different to a pre-fab with the exception or the net being more accurate