Mikey Bates

Sorry for the confusion. I meant SPL as in metering and competition SPL. . . . But how is there a difference, i didn't know there was one if you don't mind me asking

I've posted a few things on here before and people have helped me out. Right now i have 1 Skar Audio VVX 15 D4. I have it in a sketchy custom box at 3 cubes and 35ish Hz. It was my first box with sucky tools so its ok. I need a new box for my somewhat longer lasting set up. I have three different plans that im not sure of. Plan 1 SPL 60% sure this is the way im going Ported box for 1 Skar VVX 15 D4 SPL Box Design, to get absolute pounding SPL Sub RMS is 600, and i will be over driving it to 900rms, keep in mind these are low end monsters. I can do aeroports as well as regular ports Plan 2 SPL & SQ 30% may do this Ported box for 1 Skar VVX 15 D4 All around box design. I listen to everything from rap to metal and while hitting some SPL i wand a good 50/50 between spl and sound quality Sub RMS at 600, amp is 900, may over drive sub 100rms or so, no all the way to 900. Plan 3 10% may happen, so basically probably not Ported Box (or sealed i guess) for 1 Sar VVX 15 D4 100 sound quality box. For all types of music, but mainly metal. metal metal metal. spl does not matter at all, but SQ all the way! Sub rms at 600, amp is 900. not going to over drive sub at all. 600 is what ill be giving the sub.. These are the three plans. if you have any ideas let me know. Sub and Amp specs ill link. Max dimensions are 40" (L) 30"(W) 16"(H) and box is in a 1999 jeep grand cherokee, SUV obviously. http://www.skaraudio.com/index.php/products/vvx-15.html Sub Specs HERE http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/Hifonics-BRZ1200.1D-1200-Watt-RMS-Mono-ClassD-Car-Amplifier--4-Gauge-Amp-Kit/BRZ1200.1D---WK41.aspx Amp Specs HERE Thanks guys

i found the brutus 1200.1 with and amp kit and a capacitor. i have stock everything in my car except sub, HU and amp. would a capacitor be a good idea or a waste?

well the 2 15's are 1000rms each, and the 18 is 2000 so your comparing one 18 and two 15s at the same rms. the 2 15's are gonna move more air....but the 18 is just B.A

well obviously things like making sure you have good grounds, big 3, good battery. stuff like that?

So essentially, as long as the amp is cea 2006, has good wire inputs(gauge wise) i should be ok trusting it

dont most cars run at 14 volts? well and 12v. in my jeep when its off the stock battery meter reads 12ish and running reads 14.5ish so as long as my car is on i should be able to do the rated yyes?

I recently just got a Skar VVX 15D4 sub and only have it on 250rms out of its rated 600rms. Many people have pushed it to around 1000 as they are beefy subs, so that leaves me finding a new amp. I'm on a super budget but slowley working my way up. I found a hinfonics Zeus ZRX 1000.1 Amp for 160.00 new. It is rates at 475 @4ohms, 750 @2ohms and 1000 @ 1 ohm. It runs on 4 gauge power wire, and is CEA 2006 complient. Does anyone have experience wih these amps. It's in my budget and fits what i need almost perfectly. Anyone sa go for it or hifonics sucks?

looking for 1000rms amp at 2oms. or something smaller shoot me some offers. so far found a hifonics zeus 750rms at 2ohms and 1000rms ant 1ohm for 160 new

so would running 0 gauge be better just because in the future its already there even if right now its unnecessary?

Does anyone know if you can recone a Skar VVX 15" D4?

just saying what ive heard, no need to call me out and say im a noob. yes, i new to some things. but im bringing what i heard here, and if its not true, then its not. i leanred something and maybe somelse whose heard that leanred it absolutly dont matter

Haha i personally don't care to much. but some people feel as if have the block grounded to to spots is better. if you picked one spot for both, and it was just a sucky ground well that sucks so for some people ifs just to make sure its a solid ground, not so much to make it any better lol. again. its totallll preference

don't hate one im. having a solid box is gonna help a ton no matter what power your putting through it. It's recomended lol, you try and get a new amp..agreed)

It may help(preference) if there are two inputs one the dist block. ground them to seperate parts just to be sure...Some people think seperate pats mean the same part in different places. but try and ground one to what the seat bolt (example dont do that though haha) and one to the frame if you can (again just an example)

I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Just put a beautiful new 15" sub. Planning on putting an 800rms amp on it with 0gauge power and ground of course. My stock Alternator is 136 amps (To my researched knowledge) I do NOT have the big three upgrade YET. Right now i'm running the sub one a cheap mtx 250.1 which is 250rms and 2 ohms. The headlights dim a little but i can tell. Even if i do the big three, whih i will do no matter what, does anyone think my alt can handle 800rms -1000rms? Stock Alternator Stock Battery Custom Box Tuned at 35Hz (built a little sketchy, first box) Soon Big 3 Upgrade MTX 250.1 (250rms 2 ohms)

no i know 1000 is enough. but i dont have the amp for it yet. and im not sure if i should keep my subs i have in now and wait or if the new one is going to be as loud. i know thats a huge ""it all depends"" questions haha

so heres why im asking. i have 2 12 mtx sub in a sealed box that can take 400rms (so they are underpower actually) and my amp gives 250......im putting in a 15" skar sub that is 600rms (planning on pushing it to about 1000 daily) in a ported box at 35hz. even though the sub is less area, it is ported, and take more. so hopeing itll be way way louder....but for now i only have that 250rms amp. would i be better off keping my set up and waiting for a bigger amp?

would it stress the amp but trying to push the tougher sub?

Lets say i have two 12's. each seperate. and one rms at 250 and the other at say 1000. tthe xmax on the little one is obv smaller. but here the question. if i give 250rms to the 12 that is rated at 250, and give 250rms to the one rated at 1000. would the smaller rated one perform better because its getting the right amount. or would the bigger one still be louder even at the same rms as the smaller one. orrrr. would they technically be about the same. given box is the same and s optimal for both (somehow) and same car and song, and amp.

2k to 03054, just looking ad seeing price so

the highest one, one the on thats the loudest?

howd you find yours car freq?

guess i shoulda saw the (depends on subs and car) thing commin haha. it was a sper the moment post of confusion

How to pick best tuning? Soudsn stupid but ive been seeing people tune to ets say 35hz, but 42hz they hit a higher db. why is that and if your going for spl how to you figure out what tuning really is the best...becuase if you wannt hit lets say 150db at 35hz, how do you know that tuning your box to 30 hz, is going to give you the loudest db at 35. btw, just using numbers as examples, they may be absoutly wrong and dont make sense, but you get the point i hope.