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andym85

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Posts posted by andym85

  1. take a look at this pic...height and width give you the area (square inches) of port...the length adjust tuning for a given port area.

    length is suppose to be measured down the middle of the box indicated by the red line...

    there is also something called 'end correction' which equates to half the ports width

    if you are using a box wall as part of the port, as illustrated in the below pic, then the port actually becomes longer than it physically is

    so physical length + end correction = effective length of the port

    the volume the port takes up inside the box also need to be subtracted from the box volume when calculating frequency...its like a giant loop equation....when u adjust port length, it adjust the box's net volume, which in turn adjust the tuning..

    Untitled.jpg

  2. isnt much to know...just get some cheap resin at home depot or lowes...comes with hardener

    follow the instructions on how much hardener to mix with the resin...too much hardener and that shit will literally be super hot to the touch and wont give u much work time...and may also crack

    and just get a cheap foam brush or two and a small mixing bucket...its pretty simple..

  3. is that shriner's fest? didnt click the link...if it is, its a pretty big car show (not just audio)..the one year i went attendance sucked at the audio show, which was weird...but id love to go back...was fun and lots of awesome cars. the dc mobile electronic guys are good guys...have a super loud van and other rides as well

  4. yes..95% of the time u are louder with a combo of windows down or door open

    in my accord i had subs forward, ports firing to the drivers side

    metter in the passenger seat

    drivers door all the way open

    in my experience you want to open door/window on same side as your port, and put the meter on the opposite side

    but its ALL TOTALLY trial and error....test test test test...then test your tests

    and with the meter at the headrest i would be surprised if most people peak above 50hz...unless your box is tuned super high....seems the headrest likes lower notes (higher 30s-higher 40s)

  5. bump! this is my last day to get the car ready! ive got a bunch of shit to do... someone please toss in some quick pointers on how my equipment needs to be!!! ive already asked a few questions, and not much help... but thanks to those of you who did reply...

    seriously, these are my key questions at this point...

    1) does my enclosure HAVE to be bolted down?

    2) Is a strap holding my battery in sufficient enough?

    3) Can i use Bass Mechanik or bass drifters on my run? or does it have to be rap?

    i dont believe your enclosure must be bolted down

    batteries must be "secure"...you should be fine..make sure ur extra battery is secure though

    if u run an amature class it must be music from a commercial cd with no cuss words(i think it can be burned/ipod...not 100% sure on that though)

    for anything other than amature you can use tones.

    amature is car off and i 'think' the meter must be in the drivers seat

    you can leave ur current fusing as long as you make sure you add another fuse (based on your class) is within 18" of your amp

    edit: with that amp at 2 ohms u should be able to run AS1 no problem..no problem

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