WolfieGeez

I'd say a line driver'd help. Last week I ordered and installed a Soundstream BX-20Z, which is pretty much the same thing, just with a 'bass restorer,' and the woofer is working MUCH less, but Its noticeably louder, and things are flexing much more. Really gotta get around to car reinforcement. Which by the way do you have any sort of reinforcement to keep down flex? Shouldn't affect your score too bad, but every little thing adds up. Line drivers/input voltage boosters are usually a must have. Also make sure your woofers are nice and broken in before seeking accurate peak readings. ;-)

Exactly what N8 said. I am working on one now for a single 8 but it is simply a "I have never done this before so I might as well try it out" type thing. Not really designing it with any intentions in mind, if it's loud its loud, if it sucks ass I had it designed so I can play with tuning and really play with as much as I want, but the fascination has become increasingly apparent lately and I would really like to know who started the fad of lets all make 4th orders because they get you big numbers real easy. I have no intentions to 'get loud easy.' Thats boring anyways, eh? I think the fad is all about the fact 4th orders have potential to either have a decent bandwidth, or target a specific frequency quite well in some applications. And I definitely know that 4th order enclosures do take some skill. But I only was wondering since, like I said, if built right they can have a nice clean bandwidth, or, in my case, can hit extremely low extremely loud. But I'm not saying its an alternative to the good ol' ported, because I 100% know ported enclosures get mad low as well. Just experimenting really, but I just wanted to see if a 4th order would get them lows more efficiently and loudly. I'll stick to my ported and get the fiberglass and resin all ready for a little project to kick off the summer. :-) Thanks for your input guys! Oh and totally forgot to mention, after playing around with bassbox pro, it seems like I wouldn't get much better results than a ported, in any way, in many configurations, so to save wood, and money, I'll skip a 4th order. Plus I already went through enough squeezing getting just the ported enclosure in there.

Oh fuck yeah mate, I already got the TC in a ported enclosure, and it slams amazingly low, I haven't a problem with the box, just seeing any other optionays ya know, for shits and giggles.

I already got a box back there, just seeing if there are other options out there. Right now I got the TC-15 in a 3cu ft after displacement with a 6" aeroport and it slams. 3cu. ft isn't too small, the TC's work well in smaller enclosures, and right now the box is taking up most the trunj. Completely happy with the box, and towards the end of june I should be sealing it off from the trunk with some nice fiberglass work. But the bitch gets low, tuned to 30hz, probably could even tune it a bit lower with such a low ass FS, but I haven't touched any further port work yet so I'll do my work there. So I do have experience with squeeze work, getting that 15" in a civic trunk WAS a bitch, believe me. They arent the smallest trunks, but still, right now the sub is snug between the roof and the floor. But like I said, I was just seeing what you guys'd recommend, I wasn't planning anything until this summer, so I'm just playing with box designs for shits and giggles until I get a design I'm 100% happy with, for now the aeroport box slams quite well :-)

Seriously no brilliant mind want to chime in? I feel hurt Bumpidy

Yeah I wasn't sure how hot a quick weld would make the magnet, but more heat might just crack the magnet elsewhere. Also I think the welding itself can screw up the acual magnet itself and you'd get a pretty big arc. I guess the only other idea I got is the superglue idea.

Damnit beat me to that.

Idk just the sound of 'gluing a sub magnet' doesn't sound right. But idk that super glue is pretty damn strong but still doesn't sit right in my mind.

I was thinking weld. I just think with all the vibrations and constantly changing temperatures the glue would either crack, or develop areas where moisture can get and cause even more crackage, but super glue SHOULD hold up to the temps, but vibrations not sure. welds though would be solid.

Are they broken in? Because if not you'd probably loose a bit. Any fiberglass? 45 degree angles in the enclosure? How much port area do you have too? These are all factors that will affect your overall score. Sealing off the box from the rear is always good measure for increased pressure in the cabin, since now all the pressure will be in the front of the vehicle.

Lol maybe the going into protect was the same reason it had to be sent in to be repaired in the first place. I'd check grounds first. Where are your grounds located, and are they GOOD? (sanded paint where connected, attached to main frame/chassis of the vehicle)

I'd say SA-12's, they're like the ramen noodles of subwoofers, they work in almost any system. Bad comparison? You also said your upgrading your amplifier sometime? SA-12's or obsidian audio 12's'd be my recommendation.

They suprisingly arent bad for what you pay. I've been considering picking up a Hifi3000D as a temp amp, never heard of any repeating failures in their amps, and they stay true to their ratings. Overall a good buy, I'd recommend hifonics to anyone looking for a quick reliable amp.

Hello there, I've been a lurker for quite some time now, and thought I'd throw up yet another 4th order thread to annoy you folks as a first impression Alright, alright, on to the serious side, I've been considering for a while a, yes, 4th order enclosure for my tc-3000 15". I'll throw some specs up since I'm a nice fella: 15" TC-3000 QVC Qts 0.308 Qes 0.324 Qms 6.10 Fs 22hz Res 4.63Ω Ls 9.2 mH Lp 20.2mH Rp 27.66Ω Dia 325mm Vas 146l mms 373g cms 140um/N bl 27.1T*m Spl 88.6dB I'd like to focus your attention towards the two bolded T/S parameters above. Now I'm planning to throw these numbers into bassbox pro and see what she has to say, but at the same time, since I envy all your opinions, I thought I'd see what you more experienced bassheads had to say. You see the reason I'm questioning a 4th order is not because of the FS, since that is WELL low enough, but rather the QTS value. Its just seems a BIT low to comply with a 4th order. A good rule of thumb I always follow is anything over .4 should do good. I know, following a pre-determined equation/statement, tisk tisk, but I'm posting here, arent I? This is going in a 2003 honda civic coupe, of course in the trunk, as long as I can make it fit. And yes, I'll build it in the trunk if need be, I know these 4th orders may get a little on the large side. If not I'll go for the good ol' classic L port, or if I'm feeling daring some serious aeroportage. My goal here is to get low. I want to murder the lows like a cold blooded mofo. And I'm pretty sure these TC's are decent at that. And so far in my experience with it, I'd say it does quite well. But I think it can do betar!!1!11!I'm guessing then if I go through with this 4th order I should do a 1:1. Or is it 1:2 for the wider bandwidth? Fuck whatever gets those mad lows. So to sum it up for the sake of tl;dr: 4th order bandpass, TC-3000 15, honda civic coupe, do it make teh bass? If there is something better equipt, other than the traditional ported enclosure, lemme know, keep in mind I'm looking to hit those juicy lows. Also, at the MOMENT the idea is seal off the trunk, port forward, unless you rocket scientists say otherwise. Alright so I'll do my little calcs and you guys shoot your ideas hear. Dankyu!