Low n Loud

yea i hear you on that college tuition bro, im in the same boat as you only paying back student loans. you know whats really funny, a few weeks ago i installed the hifonics amp your looking at in my friends jeep, and he bought it from ebay from the same guy. long story short, it wanst brand new and moreover, it did not work. im not trying to turn you on to the rockford but rather warning you about the seller on ebay. jus looking out for a fellow SMD member. umm, as far as power acoustik i have never heard how they sound nor have i ever installed them, so i cant really give you feedback on it, but from what i hear they are pretty decent.

to find an amp to power even close to spec for $300 is going to be hard to find unless you can find it reconditioned or on ebay or something. i mean if i were u i would wait (i know its hard) but on shipsound.com they are seling the Rockford T20001bd for $695. thats a great amp for the Fi if u can save some $ for a bit longer.

im going to try it today. ill tell you what happens

check out a site called hookedontronics.com they have some sick prices on Fosgate amps, and a ton of other things

i just installed 2 out of the big 3 on my matrix, the 2 grounds. i did not install the + alt to + batt yet. my amps are not hooked up yet and my kinetik 2000 is not hooked up yet but all the wires are run. for some reason now my tailights dont work and interior lights dont work. obviously the fuses are blowing, my question is why???

im on it

who is ray and how can i speak to him? cuz im designing a box rite now and i need to know what would slam for everyday driving, but somthing that also shows some numbers on the TL, much like what joey2714 wants.

u live in alaska?? i mean ive done installs in rain, snow, cold, hot, nuclear explosions, but damn -17F will even put this car audio addict at a standstill

damn i gotta go try this it seems awesome. lol since the begining of the summer ive been fiberglassing, and gettin better at it, but it never dawned on me that we have 4 seasons and how the hell am i gonna do this in the winter. no way in hell im doin this in my garage, prolly go rite through the door into my kitchen and fumes will engulf my house. i need the garage groundpounder2k2 has or meades, or i should jus move to sacramento

you guys know those frequecies that are so low u really cant hear them, but they shake the shit out of your car? by building this new ported box will i be able to pick those up alot better, or will those low frequencies always be that way no matter how i build the box? cuz my goal is not really to go on the meter, but to make the cars a few lanes over feel as if they have a 12" in their trunk. i basically want my head to expolde, and all who enter my car. as of now i have a subzone box tuned to 30hz, with a 1.5" diameter slot port that is about 28" long and 15" high. each woofer is in separate chambers that are 2cu ft. so when building this box how do i improve on this? shorter/longer port? larger diameter port? more air space per sub?

all you guys livin' in cold weather rite now?

lol oh snap!

here in NY, its currently 12F with a windchill of -7. this blows, especially when im designing a glassed enclosure for my freind. i dont have a heated garage to work in like others. so im jus in need some advice on how to make the enclosure mad strong like ive done in the summer. ive heard of using some more hardener, but the curing time drops to like 6 min, and i get get the resin on fast enuf. the only thing i do have going for me is that i have 2 1000W workforce halogen lamps that seem to help.

also, where did u buy yours?

building a new ported box, in your opinion what what would be better? using aero's or utilizing the slot port design? from what i have asked in the past to others, there seems to be many diff opinions. but since im new to this site and their is a hell of alot of good information ide figure ide ask the real bassheads.

awesome man, do u have them hooked up the way they have it on the website?

ahh i messed up, the prices i found were wrong. but nonetheless, they were all very similar in price. i still thought the 800 would be more money than the 400?

quick question...i was researching online for buying my batcap, and it seems that the batcap 800 is the one i want. it also is apparent that is larger and more powerful than the 400 and 300 models. my question is.....why is it so much cheaper in price ($180) than the 400 ($360) and 300 ($250) models, if it it more powerful? i could of overread somthing or missed something

ite thats sounds cool. guess ill be puttin them in tomorrow

CA glue is the shit IMO. i put 3 20" strips between the mdf wood for my baffle, and i swear i did not even need screws to hold it together. but i put plenty of screws in anyways. stuff is amazing....

the are H5 or 9005 conversion bulbs, with ballasts. its a simple plug and play but i do want to try to wire around the DRL. i mean, if i really cant do it, then i guess ill jus have to settle for leavin them on all the time. w/e

yea the matrix has one bulb for highs and another for lows. (lows staying on all the time of course). ive also never seen housings melt b4 and ive installed them on alot of cars, but coincidentaly never any cars that have had daytime runners. go figure... :^ so now what should i do??

yea thats what i did for my other car, they were H4 bubls and popped right in, no problems. why do i have to get new housings?? if so ,that seems ridiculous

i jus picked up phillips 8000k HID's for my matrix. i have daytime running lights and want to bypass them because then my HID's will be on all the time, and will get burnt out fast. needless to say i dont want this to happen. how do i go about bypassing the daytime runners or hooking up my lights w/o having them on all the time?

thanks bro. now since this is the first time im doing this, what should i expect, more constant volts rite?