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Bryan

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Posts posted by Bryan

  1. well im done on here i know what i am goin with now DR series but i am goin to take your advice and get an amp first

    you have to take into account all the money you will spend to get the proper voltage to run that amp..you need to go ahead and get the sub cause im sure ia isnt going to put out a new sub that quick...plus isnt the rms for the sub 1000 or something? and the hf amp you have will prob put out about 900 or so..get the sub first travis

  2. Yes, it does. Overall movement of the cone isn't what dictates 'loud' and 'quiet.' In fact, you will notice that for extreme SPL bursts at the enclosure and vehicle resonant frequency, the driver really isn't moving too much at all.

    So let's look at it this way. You have a woofer that is 2.4% effecient with respect to both electrical and mechanical factors. You put in 1000w, you get 24 acoustic watts of sound out of it (hypothetically.) You have a woofer that is 5% effecient with the same 1kw of power, you have 50 acoustic watts of sound. BIG difference in overall sound pressure level.

    Your situation may not be that extreme, but the point I am trying to get across is that a more sensitive loudspeaker system, that is the enclosure, damping, driver, tuning etc will most likely (ie 95% chance) be louder. Whether that be .1 decibel or 1 decibel difference, I don't know.

    Cheers,

    Mick

    very technical answer there

  3. kinda off topic but what are the diff between a remote gain and remote bass knob?

    remote gain deals with your amp gain as the name of it kinda implies..it basically controls the gain on your amp without you going back to adjust it on the actual amp..like with my amp it uses the remote gain... where i have the gains set on the amp, thats as high as the knob will go when all the way up...and with remote bass knob im sure it just works with the bass boost option people have on some amps...hopefully that wasnt confusing...

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