BenzBass
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Posts posted by BenzBass
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Buy one of these. Single input dual output
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_28923_AudioControl-2XS.html
Make offer at $102
Mine as well get a new head unit at that price...
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Does your amp have pass thru rcas?
What should that look like? I'm new to this whole car audio thing
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So I wanna set up another amp for my mids and highs but my head unit only has 1 preamp output, what do I do bout that? Do I need to get a whole new unit with several outputs?
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Just ditch the cap even if you dont do the big3.
What exactly is so bad bout caps?
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Switching positions- cyhi da prince
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its prolly internally fused.
To the OP your Hifonics amp is the same. It needs a fuse within 18" of it's power wire. Probably a 200 amp.
Ahh thank you. I'm looking to upgrade my wiring from the CCA DBlink stuff to some knukonceptz OFC 1/0, do I need to upgrade the other things that came in the kit such as the speaker wire and RCAs?
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You need to get better power wire to start off with. some dblink 4gauge CCA wont cut it. 80 amp fuse at 14.4 volts gets you a maximum of 1150-1160 watts before it blows. You are starving your amp....
Go on Knukoncepts website. Get some Ogauge. Kolossus flex if OFC its better but the KCA 0gauge can still supply more than enough for your 2000watts. You need to get 2 fuse holders...2 200amp fuses and ditch the capcitor. You should probably think about getting a second battery as I'm pretty sure you will still have voltage drop with the big3 and stock alt/battery.
On the alt, I don't believe there is any sort of upgrade available from the 90 amp stock one and I've got this battery:http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Battery,-Group-Size-49H8,-760-CCA-AutoCraft-Gold_2130012-P_2916_R|GRPBATTAM2_____
Sorry it's on the mobile format, my computer isn't working so I'm using my phone.
And Thanks for the help everyone.
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Id get a fuse going between the cap and amp if it was my setup. And if you upgrade that cap to a battery down the line you want to put a fuse just before the cap so both sides of that main power wire from front to back are fused. Always fuse before the amp to be safe. Even though if you do draw too much power you can pop the fuse under the hood however that cap will still have some stored power although it wont be much it is still something and can spark a fire if the amp itself shorted out. Be safe and put a fuse just before the amp and know your car is safe. Also do NOT exceed the power capability of the wire for the fuse size.
My wiring kit I used DB Link "1600 watt" has an 80 amp fuse I believe, how do they get the 1600 watts limit with the 80 amp fuse? Like how do they come up with that number?
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its prolly internally fused.
Is that necessarily a good or bad thing?
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So I have a Hifonics HFi2000d and I realized that my amp has no fuses, so basically I'm wondering what's the deal basically. I've got a fuse on the power wire from my battery to my cap(I know, I know, I just need to get the funds for the big three) but I don't know what to do. Should I leave it be, or should I add another fuse from the cap to the amp? I hope all this makes sense.
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If i change my box would it really make a difference? Their currently in a cheapy pre made 60 dollar ported box
And the viehcle is a 99 mazda protege
Like everyone else said make a box yourself or get someone with box making experience too. It's definitely a good learning experience and there's a sense of satisfaction after your done even if the box you made is ass. And since you have a trunk car see if you can port through the rear deck. On my rear deck I have 4 speaker holes cut and I only have 3 speakers in so I plan to do an aeroport through a speaker hole so I can get all of the air movement into my cabin. You should try something like that, hope it made sense.
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now where do i get one lol
http://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-AP30001D-3000W-Remote-Control/dp/B000XS441K/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Google is a beautiful thing.
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I seen these last year at the North American International Car Show. I don't remember the MSRP they had... They look boss, but look like they need a V12 in there
They do, but it would kinda defeat the whole purpose of the car
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I like it as long as it stays this way:
And not this way:
That fire was never directly linked to the fisker, but the owner of the car and the house is convinced that's what it was. But I don't think they ever found anything to support it came from the fisker.
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In U.S. it's around $110k I believe. I think if they put a regular nice sized or turbo charged gas engine in it, it would be so much popular but that's not what they're trying to do. I've seen the two models they have at a car show, beautiful cars, definitely unique and have big some big ass rims.
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Going from an Android ( HTC EVO 4G) to the iPhone 4s I feel like the iPhone is a better phone but the Android platform has its perks. Direct music downloads from your phone to your phone, flash player, widgets, ability to easily upgrade memory and battery and wont crack as easy as iPhone. Here's the cons of android to me: not compatible with most stereos, horrendous battery life with the stock battery. Not quite as reliable, most of them are big as shit, which some love and some don't. Screen isn't as good as the retina display, even the amoled. I would go with the iPhone but it's really up to you.
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I always see people doing builds in Honda crx's because they get loud easy
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I really like smaller trucks and I think Tacomas look great. But getting rear ended sucks but it really seemed to work out in your favor!
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Its kinda like the human centipede of subwoofers
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Well my step-dad has a Honda CRV and hes a big fan of the Hurricanes so I got him a tire cover with the Miami U
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This is my first car ever, along with my first build and my first serious exposure to car audio. So I got the 1996 Benz back in September from some nice fellow off of Craigslist for $2300. For the most part its stock externally except for 35% tint all around, and chrome trim pieces on the grill. Heres the car:
The first thing audio I got on the car was a Kenwood KDC-248U
Shortly after I removed the wood trim surround because it was cracking and getting in the way, now it is just silver.
The next thing I did was get six Kenwood KFC-1662S Coaxial 6.5" speakers. Two in the front doors, four in the rear deck. The weird thing Mercedes did was that they had four cut outs for speakers in the rear deck, but only three were filled, and the fourth had a foam block in it and the wiring on the 4th speaker just doesn't go to anything I think, or isn't amplified because it doesnt play anything even when plugged in. But here are the speakers:
Then after that I got two Kicker DS40 5.25" Coaxial speakers for the rear doors:
I think the wiring is bad on the right rear door because the speaker doesn't play any music, but after all it is possible that one of the wires just wasn't connected or it came loose.
After a solid month of a lot of research I decided I wanted the 15" Kicker CVX subwoofer. I had narrowed it down between this and the RE SXX 15". The reason I went for the Kicker was I had never heard of RE which in my mind sounded like a risk, but now I know better. I got a Power Acoustik 1500 Watt amp with it, which I later discovered that it did 650 Watts @ 2ohms not the 1500 like I expected, but this whole car audio thing is about trial and error after all. I also got a Planet Audio 2 Farad capacitor with it and I wired it all up with a DB Link "1600 Watt" 4 gauge wiring kit and I had the sub sitting in a ported box. After awhile of not liking the Power Acoustik amp I did some more research for the next amp to get. I stumbled upon the HiFonics HFi2000d. I had seen a decent amount of people on youtube using hifonics amps so I figured it wouldn't hurt to try it. I saw the specs were 1300 watts @ 2ohms and it was a little over $200 so I figured I had to try it. I had noticed how much beefier the HiFonics was compared to the Power Acoustik. Shortly after getting the new amp my box started to destroy itself so I decided to get a new box. The only prefab box I could find that would fit my trunk was a tiny sealed box. So I've been riding around with this set up for awhile, with the sub sitting in a tiny 2 cubic foot box. So I decided I wanted to build a box. Its summer and I've got all this extra time, why not? I got the dimensions of my trunk, and decided I would build the biggest box possible that I could get into my trunk with relative ease. I decided I wanted a ported box, but I didn't do a whole lot of research and just got into it. The box is 36" long, 16" high, and 12" deep. Here is the port set up:
The port is is 3.75" wide, 14.75". Here is the box now, and a bit of the build:
The box is definitely louder, but it just is tuned too high. So I need your guys help in what I should do. Is there any way I can tune the box lower without having to start all over again? And this is how the future plans go:
1. Get a 4 Channel amp for the mids and highs
2. New rims so it would roughly look like this:
3. New sub, trying to choose between a DC level 4, AQ HDC3.15 or HDC4.15, SA-15, Skar VVX 15, something Fi, maybe an American Bass and maybe RE SXX
4. Remote start
So what do you guys think? What should I do about the box? What amp do you guys suggest for my mids and highs? Anything you would change?
I also need help on what to do bout my sunroof rattle if anyone has any input on that as well.
2 Amps from one preamp output?
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Could you get me a link?