jmorlan

I think im gonna give that one a shot. whats the tuning on it? and NET cubes? throw me a cut sheet too. please. lol and or pic design like you did with the last one. i have it down, i know this shit isnt rocket science, but its been a while haha

did that design you gave me, have a port down the bottom, and the middle? also, that double walled design. no go. EDIT: would it be better to port along bottom facing of box, or down the center?

are we out of ideas? would like to choose between firing back, port in middle, or firing up, port along bottom. would like to try to construct tomorrow since i have access to a table saw. I know this is kind of beating a dead horse, with just about everyone having diff opinions. not trying to compete, just in a DD, want it to hit lows, but still sound good.

sub firing towards the back should be louder than firing up, but I feel if the port is that close to the trunk then I don't think it would be as loud, but I may be wrong 15s are a new ball game for me, always just had a single 12 in a slot port box. Everyone keeps saying go with up firing, but, i am not partial to it. Would be much more simple to build a box with subs firing back and port it down the center, or on the end being i am more familair with it Ill see if i can upload a pic of my level 4 12 and the box EDIT: a box like these would be real simple http://img246.yfrog.com/img246/6968/slotportbox.jpg <---what i have now with a single 12 http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2017/middleportbox.jpg Which style would be recommended, if firing subs back

Will Do. Thanks! EDIT: 24" depth is pushing the limits of the rear space, with the port being right up against the back hatch door, will that baffle sound make make it sound like hell?

Sorry, already had those specs in my head, forgot to share. box can be up to 50" wide, and about 24" deep. Would like to stay around 18" on height, so it does not block back window too much. After all, this is going in my GF's jeep, you know how those women drivers are.. heres the specs I got from Rob, although they seem a bit small. Maybe you guys can verify them. Width - 36" Height - 18" Depth - 20" Subs firing up, slot port along bottom face of box, 34 1/2" long, 2" tall With port going back 18" in depth in box, also 4" up

Bump. c'mon folks, the amp is in route and I would like to have a box built by the time it gets here!

you know what, maybe thats what it was Knu, saw a link here on the site, been out of this stuff for a while and have just always used stinger from back in the day. do you have a site for them? EDIT: nvm, got the site. Any you say go with them over stinger? Yes. The Stinger HPM just does not compare with Knu. It's flat out bigger (the KnuKonceptz is). I can't think of a reason why the Pro or Level 2 (the red stuff) wire they have would be bigger than the HPM, being that the HPM costs more. Knu has great CS and fast shipping so...I don't see a reason not to buy from them. Well take it or leave it from me but I have better power transfer with the stinger pro hpm over knu all day. Don't ask me why but my voltage stays better and it's only more expensive it you get it from someone trying to rip u off. We sell stinger 0ga outta my shop 4$ a foot everyday. Maybe it's the quality of the copper. Don't know all I know it voltage drop used to be from 14.9 down to 13.8 and I was using all knu. With a couple short pieces of stinger. Switched to all stinger and now drop to 14.1 at lowest. Checking with 20-50 hz sine wave. I have an account with AAMP, so i get the kits at cost. just been hearing people talking all bad about stinger lately, and havent used it in a while besides the HPM 4 guage kits, which i think are plenty nice EDIT: Ill be running the Hifonics BRZ2100 brutus at 1 ohm

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0 - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA-PK0 - different wire? thus it being cheaper?

you know what, maybe thats what it was Knu, saw a link here on the site, been out of this stuff for a while and have just always used stinger from back in the day. do you have a site for them? EDIT: nvm, got the site. Any you say go with them over stinger?

thanks. I have an account with aamp of america, but their 0 guage kits are still a bit pricy, compared to a link someone posted on here with the cadence kits at about 60 bucks

not to thread jack, but if the cadence amps are good, what about their amp kits? 0 gauge real true gauge similar to stinger, but half the cost?

I used to get my RE's from rusty back in the day, but when he started DC, I sold my RE's, grabbed some DC's and never looked back. And to be honest, I think my level 4 12 is much better than my SX12 was. And I was running a better amp to the SX

Shit. Just ordered my BRZ2100 from audiosavings. Better work correctly.

Sad to see where RE has gone, I used to abuse my SX12 back in highschool, now I wont touch them with a 10ft stick. Pick you up a couple DC's, never look back

Alright, sorry for the new topic, im sure it has been covered, ive been racking my brain reading up on a design. I would like some help designing, or your thoughts, on a box for the 2 level 3 15 M2's. Would like the subs to be firing up, and be tuned around 35hz, will be going in the back of a jeep cherokee, on a brutus 2100, at 1 ohm I have never built an up-firing box before, so I want to make sure it is done right. the first time. Also, would like thoughts on a design on a box for a single level 3 15 M2, also tuned around 35hz, slot port, with room for the sub to breathe. I finally stepped up to the 15s from a Level 4 12 M1, running off 1000watts. lets get some thoughts and designs out there, I appreciate any help you guys have to offer.