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gckless

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Posts posted by gckless

  1. Yeah older, upper end MTX is pretty good. Can find them cheap now too. I used to have a MTX RFL (Real Fucking Loud, lol) 2k and it was a solid amp with the same heatsink design. Just wondering, how old is the amp?

    But awesome, appreciate the merch @meade916! I'll be shooting out the email shortly. Love the amp tests. Do you ever do 2 or 4 ohm tests on the larger amps? Would love to see those.

  2. I like it, looks good. Kinda wish you woulda made the logo and amp size lettering reversable though, for those that may mount with power inputs to the left. But still, looks better :)

    hmmm, maybe the next time we do something with the amps we could look at that OR we cound do a plaxi bottom cover, you can reverse mount the amp, now the logo is correct no matter how its mounted and super sexy looking

    That's a good idea too, for sure. I made my own plexi cover and mounted upside down :)

    Only issue you run into there sometimes are mounting problems (heat, actually physically mounting it). I think if you did a plexi cover, you could also make some sort of bracket for upside-down mounting. Shouldn't be hard, just an "L" bracket with screws in the top for the amp tabs and feet on the bottom to mount, and enough space for the heatsink to breathe. Might even be able to sell that separate. Dunno, just an idea.

    I want a cut if you use it! :drink40:

  3. My (4) Zv4 18s came in yesterday. Im running 2 at the moment on an NS1. 2 of them are laughing at my NS1. Ive been beating the shiz out of them and they barely get warm and havent smelled a coil.

    Define "laughing at". I hate when people say that. It means nothing. How do you know you're not a cooter-hair away from a bad day? Rant over lol.

    Dude around here had two Zv.4 12's on an NS-1, and the surround was dimpling at full tilt. I'd say that's pretty near limits. Enclosure definitely plays into that though obviously.

  4. Cool Cool from what I see that may be more affordable than what I'm imagining hell what I'm thinking about probably already exists but things like what I'm asking about and what you are using beats a clamp and to me and you at least its cool to see what the alternator is doing when your revving up RPM's

    Well this is only measuring draw, which doesn't correlate to RPMs at all. To use this ammeter on anything over 10A, you have to use a shunt. You wire the shunt in your ground wherever you want to measure, and you wire the ammeter to the shunt. The shunt provides a specific voltage drop across it's sides, and the ammeter calculates to find amperage.

  5. Very nice! Have these mods interfered with the sound output of the amp at all?

    I doubt they will I mean you would tap into these inputs anyway from the outside of the amp sooooI doubt they should mess things up...I stated earlier that this will have an external fuse that I can change out incase of a short, so the guages and amp are protected individually, as far as power consumtion...these meters draw probably less than 5 amps..havent hooked them up and checked for sure but I'm using dual inputs so there should be no problem...should but someone more educated could chime in and back me up.

    This is very nice work man. I thought I was doing well when I put a simple plexi back on my 5.0k lol.

    Edit: Nevermind, didn't read that far.

    Thank you thank you! dude just showing the amps guts is a project in and of it's self!! mounting it upside down makes everything challengin!

    Soo props to you and everyone else who loves to show amp porn like this lol...mine is slightly R rated..i put some lingerie on mine lol!

    How are you mounting it upside down? Here's how I did mine:

    Some semi-flexi water pipe and brass tube from Lowe's. Bolts and then T-nuts on the underside.

    Also, did you wire a switch in there? Or a relay? I could see a relay with the signal from the remote turn-on from the HU, but I didn't see a switch or relay at all in there.

    umm no each guage has power ground and remote turn on...so all three ground tied to gether run to ground from amp all three positives tied together ran to positive block and all three remote wires tied together ran and soldered to the remote turn on to the amp...if you are refering to the fans they are completely controlled by the TM-1 to kick on at 100 degrees f...if any one doesn't know about the TM-1...definatly do some research...its a bad ass tool ;)

    As for mounting the amps..if you notice all the allen head bolts the three middle and three top only srew into the holes I drilled and tapped into the heat heatsink the 4 corner allens go all the way through them amp and will be what hold the amp to the amprack..follow..it will be slightly spaced so it isnt contacting the rack.

    But damn dude great looking install! Honestly love the wire organization and obviously love the green SHCA wire....wish I could have done that :( because I love green! The way you spaced it is what most people do and looks fantastic! This is just how I decided..I may shave off the mounting feet entirely for a cleaner look and so its easier to see my gains and such when installing.

    Yeah man, I think it would look really good if you cut off the mounting feet.

    Also, even though you have the fans in there, don't forget that the heatsink for the large heat-generating components (the MOSFETs) is the case itself, which those aren't cooling. Basically just saying to make sure you space it enough. But I think you know what you're doing :)

  6. This is very nice work man. I thought I was doing well when I put a simple plexi back on my 5.0k lol.

    Edit: Nevermind, didn't read that far.

    Thank you thank you! dude just showing the amps guts is a project in and of it's self!! mounting it upside down makes everything challengin!

    Soo props to you and everyone else who loves to show amp porn like this lol...mine is slightly R rated..i put some lingerie on mine lol!

    How are you mounting it upside down? Here's how I did mine:

    F6906083-2146-4D03-B3DE-311D43C92771-522

    FBA66E1B-4646-489C-88CC-B4B46F3E0703-274

    DSC_5277_zpse33f3d49.jpg

    Some semi-flexi water pipe and brass tube from Lowe's. Bolts and then T-nuts on the underside.

    Also, did you wire a switch in there? Or a relay? I could see a relay with the signal from the remote turn-on from the HU, but I didn't see a switch or relay at all in there.

    • Like (+1 Rep) 1
  7. What power and what is your enclosure like?

    Mine never got stinky. Level 3's on a DC 2k.

    dual 2's with strapped 3.5k's in a box that Rusty gave me specs for, it is tuned to 36hzIMAG0644_zps3b9971f1.jpg

    So, you're wired to 1 per amp? If so, that would be why they're stinky lol.

    after rise there is know way their actually getting 3500 watts... I just went with the subs rusty recommended. I know its not power issue, it is clipping issue.

    So if you know what it is what's the point of the thread? No sub should smell regularly. Some have a slight glue smell when first played, but most should not.

    And it's probably not clipping that much, but since you are running so much power to them, even slight clipping is likely to make them smell.

    Only way to be sure is to use Audacity and buy an oscope.

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