bjohn118

Front speakers Highs - Pair DD audio at-28a silk dome tweeters (50w rms s4), or I have a pair of DD audio vo-b3 bullet tweeters (50w rms s4) I could swap out to Mids - Pair DD audio am-3a (50w rms s4) Low mids - Pair DD audio aw-6.5a (75w rms s4) Rear Deck Mids - x2 DD audio vo-m6.5b (100w rms s4) I have a rockford p600.4 running the rear deck and going to a DD audio crossover in the door for the 6.5s and the tweeters. Gonna be changing out to the 6.5s listed above and adding the 3 inch speakers. I am considering adding another amp for the 3 inch speakers and tweeters and using the 600.4 only for the 6.5s and doing away with the crossover. I do plan on adding an audio control dsp as well. What are your thoughts and opinions, should i use a second amp for these or should i just use crossovers. My head unit also has a built in amp so there is a potential i could use the headunit to power the 3 inch speakers and the tweeters. Let me know what you think and your recommendations.

Thanks man, yea I prefer hammer on lugs and hydraulic crimped more than anything these days I use to crimp and solder but I never really got the hang of good caps and I always seemed to melt the wire covering. Started doing hammer and hydraulic crimps and no problems ever since, all my lugs I have currently are closed end but not tinned, I will have to look into getting some of those. The heat shrink was one thing I forgot to mention, I have knukonceptz heat shrink for exterior and it is self sealing (stuff is nice but it's pretty thick) and I have regular sky high heat shrink for the inside that isn't self sealing and not as thick so it works great for wire ferrules and such. I have used tech flex wire loom for years now and absolutely love the stuff I just have there plain stuff on hand but I will look into more abrasion resistant for the wires under the car, that is an excellent idea, I never liked the plastic loom, looks cheap and is a pain and gets brittle over time. The majority of this system is already in place. The main battery wiring, and the upgraded factory grounds are done and the extra chassis ground is done, waiting on more wire to get here to do the Alternator ground. I already have one run of 1/0 under the car to the trunk from my previous setup, and I used a bulk head style pass through for sealing and to hold the wire in place. Do you think one run of 1/0 for power and one 1/0 ground wire run is enough to tie the main and aux batteries together with having the distribution blocks intersecting the two and supplying and ground to the amps is enough, or should I do 2 runs for power and 2 for ground? Also do you think I should run a 3rd battery, I have the room but that's a lot of scratch for batteries. Possibly even considered factory battery for the main and 2 d3100s in the trunk as an alternative. The reason for not grounding directly to the chassis is to keep the chassis isolated for the factory components and engine management, Hondas from my understanding are terrible and ground loops, I already have experienced this with my wide band and ethanol content gauge I am sending to the ecu. As far as alternators go, I haven't found a company that offers one for my car, apparently it's a weird setup on the 12s, but companies make them for the 11s but the 11s have a different plug on them. If you have any knowledge on this please let me know. Also forgot to mention that I previously had the entire interior out of the car and when I did I lined the floor and trunk and whatever else I could get to with paint on rubber water sealer to use as a base sound deadening material and I have to say it actually made a pretty big difference! saw it at the home supply store and thought you know this might be useful haha. Also used some expanding foam in other areas but will still need to use sound deadening material on the doors and the roof. Lastly I have never used them but for the door speakers and rear deck would it be a wise idea to used the rubber buckets they mount into, I forget the name of them but I'm assuming they act as a make shift speaker box and add some protection to the speaker.

2012 honda civic si coupe ELD and Fuel economy Alternator control disabled with flashpro. Headunit Sony xav-ax7000 Rcas Sky high 6 channel rcas - head unit to dsp Sky high single male to 2 female Y Sky high 2 channel Rcas from dsp to amps Alternator TBD Batteries Xs power d5100r 2000 watts (main battery) Xs power d3100 5000 watts (aux battery) Dsp Audiocontrol dm-608 (1A draw, 3A fuse) Amplifiers Mids and highs - Rockford power 600.4 (40A draw, 80A fuse) Sub - x2 rockford power 1500.1 (100A draw, 200A fuse) Front speakers Highs - Pair DD audio at-28a silk dome tweeters (50w rms s4) Mids - Pair DD audio am-3a (50w rms s4) Low mids - Pair DD audio aw-6.5a (75w rms s4) Rear Deck Mids - x2 DD audio vo-m6.5b (100w rms s4) Subwoofer - x2 DC audio level 4 10" (1500w rms s2) Wiring Speaker wires Mids, Low mids, Highs - 14 awg Subwoofer - 8 awg Power and ground Factory grounds - bigger 4awg Ground from knukonceptz negative ultimate terminal on main battery to chassis 1/0 Ground from knukonceptz negative ultimate terminal on main battery to Alternator case 1/0 Factory fuse box to knukonceptz bassik 3 way distribution block bigger 4awg (fuse 150A) Alternator to knukonceptz bassik 3 way distribution block - 1/0 (fuse depending on Alternator) Knukonceptz bassik 3 way distribution block to knukonceptz ultimate terminal on main battery - 1/0 (fuse TBD) Knukonceptz bassik 3 way distribution block to knukonceptz konFused 3 way fused distribution block in trunk - 1/0 (fused 300A) Aux battery to knukoncepts konFused 3 way fused distribution block in trunk - 1/0 (fused 300A) KonFUSED 3 way fused distribution block to 600.4 - 4awg (fused 80A) KonFused 3 way fused distribution block to 1500.1 - 1/0 each (fused 200A each) Main battery knukonceptz ultimate terminal to knukoncepts 6 way ground block in trunk - 1/0 Aux battery knukonceptz konFused negative terminal to knukonceptz 6 way ground block in trunk - 1/0 All amp grounds matching power wire size and type but individually ran to knukonceptz 6 way ground block in trunk DSP positive and negative (size TBD) ran to positive and negative distribution blocks in trunk (fused 3A) All wire outside of the vehicle and engine bay will be knukonceptz kolossus flex tinned ofc All wire inside the vehicle and not exposed to elements will be SkyHigh bare ofc Places using lugs will be crimped with a hydraulic crimper and heatshrinked Places where lugs are not applicable will be wire ferruled and heatshrunk. All grounds will be cleaned and protected with dielectric grease Unfortunately the 1/0 from the front to back has to be ran under the car however they will be secured with clips to floor pan away from heat and moving parts, and also covered by the oem underbody panels Rca's and remote wire will run down the center of the car under the carpet Speaker wires will be techflexed into 2 separate harnesses left side will go down left side of car and right side will go down the right side.

ok thankyou thats what i was curious of but i didnt know if i was actually hurting anything or not it doesnt sound bad but it just makes me nervous and do you know if its possible to set it to the remote on the db level?

ok so i have a hifonics atlas 3000 watt sub amp and i set it with the dd-1 at -5 db i think im actually unsure its been awhile and i havent got a chance to ask my question yet. so after i set the amp perfect i got to play music and the clip light on the bass know starts showing a clipped signal not constantly but it does flash am i doing something wrong or is this normal. also since the knob has incriments on it would it be possible to set it at -15 -10 -5 and 0 on the knob so i could adjust it from there? my knob looks similar to this one

ok so i have a hifonics atlas 3000 watt sub amp and i set it with the dd-1 at -5 db i think im actually unsure its been awhile and i havent got a chance to ask my question yet. so after i set the amp perfect i got to play music and the clip light on the bass know starts showing a clipped signal not constantly but it does flash am i doing something wrong or is this normal. also since the knob has incriments on it would it be possible to set it at -15 -10 -5 and 0 on the knob so i could adjust it from there?