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candyman74

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Posts posted by candyman74

  10. batteries

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    FAT (front access terminal) batteries are not designed for mobile under hood applications either. They are typically designed for stationary applications and hot high amp discharge, high vibration applications like in a car audio system or for starting.

    Batts like this are not necessarily junk, they're just not made for what we do... they're better suited for telecom or computer back up cabinets... all you need to do for confirmation is call the companies and ask...

    soooooo your saying no go on the fat batteries? but what about the enersys batteries cause the j30 battery looks just like an XS D925. do i guess ill just use the fat batteries for my trolling motor.

  14. 16.20 volts at idle

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    yeah i meant dc power

    ok so ive called the parts stores and none of them sell a voltage regulator by itself so now it looks like im stuck having to buy a reamanufactured one to get me by cause i need my truck. that is unless someone in missouri has one a high output alt for sale. i live in st louis near south county. if someone does please get ahold of me.

  16. 16.20 volts at idle

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Yeah, some amplifiers start acting up at higher voltages. Your car is fine with 16 volts. Most modern cars can handle quite a bit more. Mine throws codes at around 16.5. I'm more concerned about your batteries though. I'd look into replacing the voltage regulator since the alternator may still be charging fine. In the mean time you can go to autozone and have them do a test on it for you, just to make sure it's doing rated amperage and such before doing anything. Either way it's not super costly and the voltage regulator is most likely is the culprit, I'd post up something in mechman or dc's section to confirm before throwing money into a puddle though. They are the true guru's.

    i pmd dc audio so im waiting to hear from him. i was going to take the alt to advanced auto tomorrow and see what its doing. i wanted to get a high amp alt anyway so this would me a good time if any.

  17. 16.20 volts at idle

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    I wouldn't drive it if that is the case man, you are literally smoking your batteries if you do that for long periods of time. Some battery chargers that trickle will dip up to 15.9-16.2 on there for 3 hours on acid batteries from my exp. For car audio batteries, or any style of AGM batteries in general... 15.3 is pushing it. I'd get it checked out. See if the vreg is adjustable. if not check for shorted wires on the harness going to the alternator. If not.... You can but replacement voltage regulators for around 10-15 bucks depending on your model. springhillautoelectric should have it in stock for you.

    i doubt it is adjustable its a factory alt. is this the reason my amp is cutting in and out also? i also disconnected the sub amp and the voltage was the same.

  18. 16.20 volts at idle

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Do you have another battery or vehicle to test that DMM with? If so, do it.

    its the same meter i always use. i tested on another vehicle and it showed 14.4 volts . my amp is a jl audio 1000/1. this just started and i guess its time for a new alt? i have alittle battery under the back seat maybe that helped to cause this problem but the battery has been in there for a while now

  19. 16.20 volts at idle

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    quick question. i searched on here for an answer but i need an answer like right now. my amp has all of a sudden been acting funny buy cutting out on me. i check the voltage today and with the truck off it was 14.59 and then when i started the truck up it was 16.20. is this going to cause problems and if so do i need to get a new alt. its an 2001 tahoe with the factory 130amp alt.

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