AP Zoutes

FTW Seahawks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Upgrading your battery will help, but it can also put stress on the alternator, of course your system is already doing that. At school they taught me that everything runs off the battery and the alternator recharges the battery. The bigger the battery load the more work for the alternator. The bigger the alternator(s) the higher the power supply to charge the batteries. You can do one without the other, but going to big on the batteries without upgrading the alternator fry your alternator. Aldo, depends on what your alternator is rated at now.

So...Meade has shown the btl's kick arse :^ What about the Q's? Amazing price difference. Has anyone heard these? I'm tossed between the Fi Q's/ Fi Btl/ and Digital Design 9512 Open to suggestions. Thinking of doing 4 12's ported. Daily driver, occasional comps (not many comps in WA)

:^

actually you will lower your sq. more port air = more port noise.

Just to throw this in the mix I am also considering 4 12's

boobs

Did some more measuring Measurments = on 6 10's after sub displacement/port displacement(30x4x29)/ 2" walls/ bracing I have 7.11ft3 35hz Less then I was hoping but still almost 1.2 ft3 per 10" Maybe able to get another ft3 out of the spare tire well (I'm only figuring about 1.5ft3 out of spare tire well. won't know for sure until I take out old box.) The guys on sounddpressure are pushing two fifteens hard, but IMO 6 10's would not only be louder but also more pleasing to listen to in a DD. But all I have are theories. The more opinions the better. I'm having a tough time deciding and would like to here from everyone!! :^

So, I can fit 6 10's or 2 15's. What would you do. both combo's would go in 9ft3 box ported and tuned to 35hz. The six tenswould follow the plan above stated the 2 15's would be subs forward port up trunk sealed off. the 6 10's (dd9510) can handle 9000 watts rms / if I used the new fi's 12000 to 15000 rms the 2 15'2 (dd9515) can handle 3000 watts rms (spec)/ if I used the new fi's 4000 to 5000 rms IF the choice was yours what would you do???????? and why????

:-* :-* :-*

I'm changing my system this winter. currently I have three 10's sealed facing the rear. I want it louder and I don't want to mess with a little bit at a time. I've done that in the past and it just costs more and causes more headaches. As I see it 6 10's is as big as I can do and still keep it as a daily. I want to do six tens ported facing forward. If funds allow I will be doing DD9510's. The enclosure rough plan is 9 ft3 with a 150 sq" port x 28" long (35 hz). I plan on a sub arrangement with three subs and the port facing the back seat and three subs on the parcel tray. All one enclosure sharing one port. And the trunk sealed off. I've done the measurements and it looks like this will work/fit. Will be building the box in car and fiberglassing part of the spare tire well to get enough air and have room in my trunk for batteries and amps. My question is WIll I have cancellation problems with the subs being on different planes. Three subs facing up and three facing forward.

SEAHWAKS!!! 'nuff said

You didn't know about the 3rd row option package on the Cutlass yeah, baby :-

Hav you tried replacing the ground on the deck to try to get rid of the noise? Also on rca's I've used electrical tape to wrap up where they connect to get rid of noise.

IF price is an issue I got my soundstream 1700d of ebay for 330 with 3 year warranty and shipping. It's a refurb but works great. Ive tested 62 volts peak (3844 watts @ 1 ohm (peak)). I've watched it hold 55 volts (3000 watts @ 1ohm) for whole songs. It's rated 1700 x1 @1 ohm. I got mine from sambette4g4e and it's great. Here's one http://cgi.ebay.com/SoundStream-EGA1700D-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm at a lost for words. I think I would just stare at it and do the Homer drool. OH wait that's what I'm doing now :-*

The man has dreams I think it's kinda funny actually but then again I'lm looped on Nyquil fightin a cold. he he he ;D

Affirmation is always nice

you are right exceptyou need the total width of the port. In other words the ports will be 6" internal but maybe 6 1/2" total across external. But close enough :^ It's also the length of the port inside the enclosure. FOr example if the port is 14.12" and it's flush with the surface af 1" MDF then you would subtract 1" to make it 13.12"

do you know how to figure port displacement?

j/k Don't stress about it your on the right path. Build first stress later :-[

guestimate

I am really not an "expert" at this, so i might be wrong, hopefully someone can clarify this if i am but... the only thing that doesn't look right to me is that you did not account for the center divider, that seperates the two chambers of the box.. the 48" in width, should have had .75 + .75 +.75 = 2.25" subtracted from it. That accounts for the two ends(.75" each) and the center wall .75".. here are my calculations... 48 - 2.25 = 45" 18 - 1.5 = 16.5" 34 - 1.5 = 32.5" 45 x 16.5 x 32.5 = 24131.25 24131.25/1728 = 13.965 ft^3 13.965/2 (chambers) = 6.9824 ft^3 (2) 6" ports in each chamber @ 35hz = 13.43" the only thing that i did not account for is speaker displacement, since i have no idea what it is... :^ You forgot ot subtract port displacement as well..... Like I mentioned build the enclosure to your outside demensions one it's all done measure internal and subtract displacements then deside you port length

Yeah I'm going with Kinetik. Thankyou Start with a hc800 in the trunk and the 2000 unser the hood until I upgrade the alternator