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P4killer_

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Posts posted by P4killer_

  1. so im ripping out my equip today if it doesnt rain again, and the thought of having no bump is like .... ouch .... so i was thinking i could use the old box to make a quick single 12 enclosure sealed for sure ported if i have enough scrap, need less to say ill be powering a single PA Fubar 12" which is rated a 800rms i suspect that rating is a little high but anyway...

    anyway im thinking the output of an amp is linear.. meaning to say

    the 3000D is rated at 3000 rms @ 1ohm

    so would that therorhectically sp? be 1500 @ 2, 750 @ 4, 325 @ 8....

    anyway the sub is a D4 so ican wire to 2 or 8 ohms,

    any help is appreciated

    Thanks P4Killer :P

  2. Yea dont cram it bro, theres prolly no way you could build the box outside and put it in after, you might be able to do it if you build it internally, but its would prolly be less than ideal. go ahead and try-- good luck m8

  3. personally ive tried to order subs from that seller VMInnovations, and after i paid for the subs, i was told they are out of stock and it took FOREVER to get my money back.

    As for the subs $270 Shipped = like $120 ish for each sub. they are rated at 1000W RMS for the pair = 500W RMS per sub...

    idk audiopipe has always been like the budget sub in my mind just barely above Pyle and like BOSS or something so to me its a lil high in $$$, I guess if the candy blue is really your thing go for it, but I know there are better 15's out there for that kind of money.

  4. Personally they look like old school FUBARS to me, but MOFO's DEF own and def take at least 800W RMS. Shoot I always feel like PA gets hated on alot, Ive been running FUBARS for awhile now, and I love em, and with my 3000 on em they take a beating and then some and dont even break a sweat. But if you got mofos, it should be sick for sure. Ill def have to keep up on your build

    PS I talked to a customer rep from PA, I was asking about Mofos b/c you cant find any new online anymore. He said they are out and have been for awhile but are launching new ones later this year :P

  5. well thanks alot for the replies guys, anyway i can understand wanting to protect their dealers, thats cool no prob with that. i just think its funny that there is litterally NOTHING online pretty much. maybe it adds to the whole DD mystique lol i just know ima call em up i was thinking 3512's but even for like a 1512a which is 500 rms they be like [big man voice] oh yea i can get you those for 350 each like a NTB of Car audio, instead of oil changes and rip off parts, its rip off carbon cones and packages lol i could be wrong though. its more out of curiosity, ill make tht call when i actually have money, i know dealers tend to hate "curiosity calls"

  6. Yea on the low end of things, AB subs are kinda iffy (OX, XD, DX) I think. But the XFL's are pretty decent there are 3" Coils I had two of em in my trunk on a 3000D and it was pretty nice. On the TL i could do 144's on music. The top of the line AB Woofer is the HD series (I dont think they make the Comp XFL's anymore) But HD's are def a very nice sub, for the money they are def worth it. The HD's are stiff so they are more SPL than SQ but they are very comparable to AQ HD3C's. I have no experience with their amps. but alot of people use them and I understand they are pretty solid as well.

  7. hey if you hit the print screen button which is the next button to the left of f12 on your keyboard you can take a pic of everything on your comp screen.

    open up MS Paint (Start> Accessories> Paint)

    hit Control V to Paste and Crop out what you need..

    = better pics :P

    But IMO You got 4 beefy 15's youll want some bracing (bracing the top to bottom and sides to e/o gives more stregnth than doubling all the walls)

    I would put a brace from top to bottom in the center and move the port to the back. Subs up port back should be your best bet. of corse IMO anyway

    in any regard, Good Luck with the build

    P4Killer

  8. I will get a video of it soon that actually sounds like a good idea to see if they are 100% in phase but to look at them at full volume they look like they are all moving together it.. also the ports are all 4" but the ports for the 12's are longer then the ports for the 15's but each chamber works out to 33hz after sub and port displacement.

    I yea I gotta say Im with Decaf on this one bro, I usually dont comment much on other people posts b/c there are many knowledgable people on this forum who can offer much better advice than I. However, I saw this and was like what the...

    Dont get me wrong nice box and build for sure bro kudos on that, but on the same mono block amp, with what is essentially two dif boxes and two dif sets of subs sounds iffy at best. Youre talking dif impeadences, dif reactives, really just dif everything. Wait to put your second amp on the second set of subs, but untill then id stick with the 15's.

    As always I could be wrong, and you could be ok running it like that.

    In the end Good Work and Good Luck M8

  9. if you want to see 2200 watts at 2 ohms set the amp output to about 66.33 VAC and at .5 ohms set the output to about 33.16 VAC.

    WITH a DMM that is about as good as you can do...impedence changes in the sub sometimes it may be lower sometimes higher...

    I dont know how to set the gains with my dmm a tut would nice :P ummm as far as box design, it my first box its not good, it wangs hahaha but in terms of craftmanship and as far as home built boxes go its a lil rough so for the ratio bit-- yea well i was cramming as much air space as possible, all ratio(s) ignored. and umm its hard to describe the rattle, the note hits and its a high pitched buzz like berrrrr instead of bummm lol i guess thtll have to do. its not like a distortion sound or a mechanical limit being reached. i didnt see any torn spider(s). I mean like i said before something happened.. it was loud eevrything sounded supurb considering and now its like theres tht stupid w/e it is again... obvi untill my issues are resolved no wangin' down the block for me :( !!!! i could take a vid using a dig cam but i doubt the mic would pick up the bass all tht well

  10. yea my 12v voltage is resting car off at 12.65 at the amp and as well as at both bats after voltage drop it prolly isnt pretty. As far as setting the gains using my dmm idk really how to the gain setting at 75% is just a general thing i read. when a buddy and me clamped it on music, which i know is kinda irrelavent to clamp on music i was seeing around 2200 or so. i want to get a K2400 but apparantly kinetik is out of them.... or at least another 1400 SOMETHING. after toying around a bit im starting to think ive got major box flex issues or something similar somewhere. @ low volume things sounds normal at around vol 25 it sounds very dif which is why i had become concerned to begin with. but if i turn it up to higher volumes you can def hear what seems to me like mdf rattle but when i checked the box earlier today i couldnt get it to budge (manually of course). either that or my trunk shelf in the back window finally gave up and came loose even though i cant find any new rattles or openings that might change the sound dramatically. I was just worried that it was an equip issue and a box issue would be much less of an issue for me.

    i got a month or something till the maxxonics event coming up it would be my first show. my spl my not be pretty but it would be for the experience and possibly getting more involved in competing.

    I know the electrical is not good, but i never went into protect or anything and if i wired up to 2 ohms to reduce the load -- i just plan on going 139.9 class and at 2 ohms idk if id have enough head room to make it as it would be my first event and my starts might not be pretty so i would lose the extra headroom i had at .5 ohm to "catch up" if i ran at 2ohms...

    i cant find the box flex as of right now so what else could cause a much different sound especially at low freq notes?

  11. Thanks for the replies all of you. umm as in the link from the orig post my setup is :

    Sundown SAZ3000D on 4 PA Fubar 12's @ .5 ohm 0 guage wiring, stock bat + K1400 the electrical is not at all the best or even ideal, but as far as gains the gain is at 75%, subsonic at 20hz , low pass at 80hz or so these are approx values of course. Ive been running the setup for awhile now and its all been fine till now the gains are good port is solid at least ive pushed/pulled and its solid.

    box is ported btw the amp stays on doesnt go into protect ill check my ground my fuse under the hood and voltage of the bats and at the amp and post that.

    really thanks again for the help its greatly appreciated.

  12. So I pulled it out today.. not good i cant find anything wrong with the box or ne of the subs, all the subs ohm out good so i havnt lost a coil but when the volume goes up it sounds VERY BAD like the subs are blown or playing free air or something idk! I pulled the remote wire what can i do?

    and the amp whines a lil when i start the car, the ground is all good im out of idears plz help

    "anyway i was wankin' on my way to work as usual and i turned it down a bit at the stop light. when turning it back up it sounded very different to the ear. at least enuff to be like wtf??!?

    i tested all the speaker wires and each sub comes out to 2ohm, and i cant notice anything out of wak with the box ie:. broken panel/ collapse or and thing wrong with ne of the subs."

    ps-i know i started a new thread about something tht i had already posted but the title of my post didnt really shed light on my problem at hand.

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...mp;#entry682907

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