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Found 48 results

  1. Alright fellas, I'm working on coming up with an enclosure for four SWR-1222D's. I want to do a removable/changeable port to be able to adjust tuning on it so I'm probably going to do a square port instead of a center slot on this box. I will be feeding them 2.4kw (In a perfect world without any rise, voltage drop, etc) But they'll be on an old RE Audio VLD-3DE so I'm factoring them @ 600rms each at 1 ohm nominal. I have a couple of questions as I proceed with the Torres calc's and paper scribbles and I figured I should just start a thread and hope that some of the knowledge on here can chime in and give some advice as I go along. Box will be for (4) Type-R 12's (SWR-1222D models). My old box I had for two of them worked fantastic at 4cu.ft net/32hz with 58sq in of port. (16H 38W 19D, 4x14.5" 30 long port if I remember right) on the same amp @ 2 ohms. ~~~~Questions for the new box I want to build~~~~ -Port area- How much port area should I aim for? Like I said above my box for 2 of them was 58 square inches of port and worked great. Do I need to double that and aim for around 116? Or would smaller area be fine on a square port with rounded ends? -Net volume - Old box was 4ft net for two of these subwoofers on 1.2k and performed well. Should I double it and aim for 8 cubic feet net from doubling subwoofers and power? Or should I aim slightly smaller and go in the 7-7.5 net range? Would there be a *noticable* difference in output between for example a 7 cubic ft net, vs an 8 net enclosure? -Port to rear hatch- I know the old rule for distance from port to any wall is to stay equal distance as the smallest measurement of the port. (example being a 4"x14.5 port, keep at least 4" away from the wall). Is this still the general standing rule? Or on larger ports, say a 10x10 square.. I staying 10" from the wall necessary or could it be tightened up a little bit without issues? Thanks in advance guys.
  2. I have 2 12 inch alpine type rs. Dual 4 ohm voice coil and currently theyrw hooked up to my kenwood kac9006d 2 channel amp. The subs are wired indipendantly of eachother from the amp so the amps max 1k watts at 2 ohm is only sending 500 to each sub. I honestly think my system was just as loud when i had the full 1k going to only 1 sub. So im looking for a 2k+ watt amp that is stable at 1 ohm for around $300. Im only going to run the amp at about 1800 watts so 2000 or larger is fine. Ive been looking at the hifonics brx3016.1d amp.. is this any good? Or should i look at others? Im also upgrading my stock alternator to one around 250-300 amps after i buy the new amplifier so power shouldnt be too big of an issue.. any suggestions?
  3. This build log will be coming soon, right now I am currently in the design stage. I would love to have your guys input on aesthetic features to add. Basics Two Alpine Type R, each gets a separate chamber with its own port Box tuned to 25hz Aesthetics Black Vinyl with White accents Blue LEDs that will light up the following Apline logo etched into acrylic Frosted acrylic rings around subs glowing ports Anything else you guys thing would look cool on this box?
  4. This build is expected to move slow. My plans for this build are to keep it small with a little bump and some clarity, but do it right and keep it clean. I want every thing done in a way that I can easily return the vehicle to factory stock. My thoughts on equipment Items I have Head unit - Alpine CDA-9887 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/cda-9887/ Subwoofers - 2 x Massive Summo 64 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74658_Massive-Audio-SUMMO-64.html vehicle deadening - KnuKonceptz Kno Knoise Sound Deadening Door Kit 14sq ft 80mil http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/sound-deadening/kno-knoise-resonance-control/sp/kno-knoise-resonance-control-2-door-kit-14sq-ft/ Rockford Fosgate T400.4 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t400-4 Items that I still need to work on acquiring Sub Amp - Undecided but I know it will be Rockford. Either a P300-1 or one of those new PBR500X1 they bothe do 300 rms @ 2ohm The Box - Still undecided on the design but have been sketching up a few ideas. Speaker wiring - I will be on the look out for some 12 gauge OFC Power and Ground - Although overkill I will be saving for the Rockford Fosgate RFK1D DUAL AMP 1/0 AWG Amplifier WIRING KIT Door Speakers - Still debating a nice set of components for the front doors. Kick panels - Wanting to do a Mid bass driver in one of those Q-form kick panels that they already make for the F-150 Still trying to recover financially from my wife's trimalleolar fracture on her left leg. Thankfully she did heal well and is back to work now. That being said I have been collecting a little here and a little there when ever I had some spare change. Now on with the build and a few pictures. 2004 F-150 Crew cab (toreador red) This truck was equipped with the factory subwoofer under the rear seats. You will also see that I got the really nice floor mats to protect the carpet . And the very first and only thing I have done so far is change out the factory radio for an Alpine CDA-9887.
  5. Since I am looking at making some changes to the system in the 350z I figured I would post what I have now. Stereo Alpine 9861 HU Audiovox 7" monitor in dash Crescendo cz 6.5-Inch Two-Way Components Rockford Fosgate Punch 300s (2002) Rockford Fosgate Punch 500.2 (2003) 4g power and ground. for get the Big 3, it will be the Big 7. (special grounding kit for Z's) Sundown SD-2 D2 10" shallow mount sub. Batteries Plus X2 AGM group 35 Battery under the hood. DD-1 Amps are setup 300s on the Doors. 500.2 Bridged for the sub. Right now I am a sealed box under the rear strut bar. Engine and Suspension mods ( nothing special yet) Airaid intake SPL FLBS Z33 PRO Front Shock Mount Lower Arm Bushings SPL PRO Front Inner Lower Arm Bushings JDM Y Pipe SPL Pro solid diff bushing VLSD Diff (not stock on the Base model) Here are the pics I have for now. Additional pics to follow soon. new bushings
  6. Hey Steve I was wondering what you would recommend. My dad wants to upgrade the bass in his car since he has watched some of your videos on youtube. He has a BMW E36 M3 3.2 Evo, with 2x Alpine SPX-13REF in the Footwells, a Shallow Rockford Fosgate PS3 Subwoofer connected to a Rockford Fosgate P300 Amplifier in the boot, Original Rear Speakers still in car. He wants to add 2x 12" Subwoofers on the back shelf but is not sure if he can bridge all 3 subs with the Alpine CDA-9887R Head Unit that he has, also he wants to put 2x Alpine SPX-13REF in the rear doors and connect them all to one Amp. Any recommendations would be much appreciated.
  7. With summer coming up and especially the Indy 500 (I live in Indianapolis and it is the greatest tailgate in the world) I wanted to build a loud stereo for long extended hours at the pool and outdoor activities (aka drinking in the sun). I went online and did some research and all of the portable ipod docks and stereos were just too quiet and, quite frankly, too expensive. I had a bunch of extra car audio stuff laying around and I began to think of what I could possibly do with it. It was in bad enough cosmetic shape that it really wasn't worth selling. I immediately though why not a cooler boombox powered by a deepcell battery. I immediately got to work. Equipment 4 Old Alpine Type E Series 5.25" Speakers. I had them left over from a while ago so they were free. I used some old kicker speaker covers to protect them 12V 35AH SLA/AGM Deep Cell Battery by Zipp Batteries. You can always go bigger but the bigger the heavier and this needs to be somewhat portable. This should give me around 10-12 hours on a full charge playing at full volume. Weighs about 25lbs. U1 Battery Box from E-Trailer. Keeps the battery held down and protected. Pioneer DEH-1300MP Head Unit. Had it laying around and had a AUX and a decent amp which is all I need. Cheap Rubber Car Antenna from AutoZone (Cost me around $12 dollars but I had to get a longer machine screw to mount it to the cooler) Marine Head Unit Cover. Not necessary but looks cool and protects the head unit. Found one cheap on Ebay. Motobatt Waterboy AGM Battery Charger. I originally wanted to do a solar panel but the cost was too high and they weren't really powerful enough to charge the battery. This is a trickle charger to properly maintain a deep cell battery. I learned so much about batteries during this process. 12 V Rocket Switch to act as an ignition switch Cheap Voltmeter from Ebay to keep an eye on the battery level ATO/ATC fuse block panel with ground panel. Keep all the wiring tidy and fused to prevent failures. Found a good deal on one from ebay. Assorted wiring and fuse holder along with electrical connectors I had laying around. Used KNU 8 gauge as the direct leads from the battery. Overkill but I wanted to keep the voltage constant. Cheap Big Cooler. Found one for $5 at the local Habitat for Humanity Restore. Awesome place and a great cause. All in all, I probably spent a little more than I wanted to with the battery being the major purchase (around $65 shipped). I probably spent around $100 but already having the head unit and speaker helped out a lot. Here are the pictures The hardest part was figuring out how to mount things in an insulated cooler. The plastic is thin and there is really nothing for screws to grab to. What I ended up doing was drilling holes and placing epoxy down into the holes to turn the foam on the inside hard. Then I simply used drywall anchors and srews (probably cost me around $5 from Lowes). Doesn't hold super tight like wood but nothing is budging. This is where I would like to do some research. I also cut down on cost by running the speakers off a head unit and not wiring a separate 4 channel amp. I was worried about how loud it would get but it sounds great and gets extremely loud without distorting. This is where I needed to get a longer screw. The antenna is meant to be mounted in a hole in the sheet metal of a car. However the cooler is probably and inch and a half thick so the through screw had to be longer. Just went to Lowes and found a longer one. Worked out perfectly. I was originally going to do two on the front and two on the top but ended up putting the rears on the side. I wanted to leave room on the top in case one day I do decide to get a solar panel trickle charger. Battery Box and Fuse holder all mounted up and wired to the terminals. Also mounted the charger inside in case I need a plug in. Head Unit and Marine Cover all mounted up. The head unit holds itself in really well. The wiring was temporary just to see if the head unit still worked. Here is the switch and everything wired up and fused. I will be posting more pictures. I'm waiting on the voltmeter to come in and I will mount it below the switch. I haven't had time to test it yet because it'd cold as balls and nobody wants to be outside. The next step in the process is breaking everything down and painting it. Here is where I need some recommendations. I have a ton of automotive spray paint and I think I'm just going to do everything flat black. I really want to do fleckstone and make it looks "classy" but I'm trying to go cheap and that stuff is about $10 a can. I think I will stick with the paint I currently have. More updates to come. I may have to wait a little while to paint until the weather gets warm but I will keep a detailed pre paint process. I heard paint sticks to plastic extremely well so I think just a little alcohol, cleaning, and self etching primer will do. Does anybody think I should pre sand a little?
  8. I bought another car January 3rd, This makes my 16th car. I liked the Tahoe but I got an offer that was too good to pass up. I sold the truck With the 22's and the tires I just bought for them. I still have the 15's, T2500-1bdCP, T1 6.5's and Mechman 360 laying around LOL. I sold the truck to help me with the down payment on my house I just bought. Its nice 3 bedroom 2 full bath's attached garage ranch style house in a GREAT neighbor hood Enough talking here is my new ride. 2001 Monte Carlo, 124K miles, tinted windows all the way around, BRAND NEW tires, Super clean car inside and out I bought a discontinued amp for work for cheap and some polk audio interiors, I cant roll stock lol I love these 10's, They BANG and sound great doing it. Directed SX's. Picked up a used mono block for a decent price too. Yes, I did build this in my living room at my apartment lol. Had to pick up some wheels too The cash from my Hoe that bought this car and a good chunk of my down payment
  9. I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla ce and currently have alpine type r 6x9s and 6 1/2s as my door speakers connected to the head unit. I am wanting to upgrade but I was wanting to know if focal was worth the price or if there was another brand that could produce the same quality for cheaper or if there is an even better speaker to run my mids and highs. I really love my type r's even though I know they aren't getting proper power but wanted some advice and personal opinions on other brands etc Also I would like to know what a good four channel amp would be to get to power my door speakers Thank you
  10. Finally got tired of the trunk game and picked up a 2010 Hatch Here are some pics of the cream puff. First thing I did was tint the windows.
  11. Hello fellow bassheads! This is the build log for my car, the Kickin' Cruiser. The builds in this car started in 2010, and have changed several times since then. But in Dec. 2011 I decided to go big or go home, so I started planning this build for the final install. Actually got started about a month later, and have jumped around, way out of order. And I had to put it on hold for over 6 months for the birth of my newest son, T.J. (Trent Jr.) But I just keep pushing forward, with my goal of having a ground pounder PT still very much alive! So anyway, here we go. Much of this will be a repost, since I had a build log before, it just got messed up by facebook. I will attempt to keep it all in the correct order. The car is a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser that I bought a few years ago, and fell in love with ever since. Best car I have ever owned! And a while back, I decided to split the build into stages, so that it wouldn't seem so over-whelming, and so it would be easier to navigate through. So here is the plan for the different stages: Stage 1 - Initial instal Stage 2 - Fiberglass and accessories (Learning Stage) V.2 Stage 3 - Dash, doors, and a 4th order wall. (Time to get serious stage!) Stage 4 - Rims. body, and paint Stage 5 - Engine/ drive-train (performance mods) For this stage, we will be focusing on the interior of the car. We will build new custom door panels, dash panel, change all of the interior color from light brown/ dark brown to grey/ black. I'll also be Installing new carpet front to back, as well as building a new headliner. We will finish it off with new seats. Basically the whole inside of the car is getting a make-over!!! Oh and how could I forget? I'll be building a 4th order wall for 4 custom Solo X 15's (which I will build myself), to run off 2 DC5.0K's. Goals are mid 50's on music, and nasty hair tricks on demand. So here we go!!!!
  12. So here's whats going on: 2 - Alpine Type R 15's (SWR-1522D) 1 - Alpine MRX-M240 Laser Etched Plexiglass w/LED lighting. Separate Chambers for each sub roughly 4 Cubic Ft. each Sky High Car Audio 8 Gauge Speaker Wire This box was built for a friend, it took us about one month to build but it was only really about 7 days of actually working because we were mostly only able to work on weekends. Had a few problems here and there but all in all it turned out well. It is going into a 2003 Denali Yukon XL. This build was done by me and PortSideAudio.
  13. First of all I'd like to say I'm glad to have joined he best car audio forum on the web. Soon I will be getting a Nissan Frontier crew cab and will be losing the space that I had for subs like in my 4Runner. I have found this ported box to fit under the rear seat. https://www.soundoffaudio.com/item.cfm/id/3112 Quick Specs - Mounting Depth -5.25 - 1.0 cubic ft. Shared - Tuned to 37hz, but frequency can be changed. - 1.25 inches of clearance between bottom of box & floor. I've done a fair amount of research on 8" drivers, and thought about the Sundown SD-2 but I don't believe it will work with it using the SA surround. I also heard good things about the Alpine SWR-8. I would like other people's opinion on 8" drivers that would work best with that box. Particularly I'm looking for SPL, that won't slam into the floor with excursion. Thanks for any advice!
  14. I've been messing with the 3 band parametric EQ on my Alpine 136BT for months now. I listen to a variety of music from rock, country, and some hip hop. I am just trying to get some pointers on setting it so it sounds good no matter what I'm listening to. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!
  15. I recently got an hdc4 in a pro box, its the super bass edition, therefore its a 2.25^3 box tuned at 40HZ i believe. but im looking to build one. Im running it off of a v-power 2k at 2ohms, should i go bigger with the box... volume wise? more port area? im wanting to hit some good numbers for the power im working with. its in a 02 lancer 4 door. Thanks!
  16. I'm looking to build a big ported box for 2 alpine type r 10 1042D.. I have a 3000 watt bassinferno amp.. I'm putting them n a 98 blazer 4 door with a drop tail gate.. I want at least 1 cubic ft of air space per sub.. I think subs faced up and big port at bottom of box at the tail gate.. But what ever is best for deep bass.. I only have one hooked up now in a ported box and it sounds good for what it is.. If u have any ideas or specs let me know
  17. I have a 2000 Chevy Impala 2 12 Memphis M3 Alpine MRX M100 Ported Box - 38hz 35in x 15.25in x 14.25in I've tuned it many different ways and I am not really sure the best way of tuning it now with my ported box, I would love some help. Looking for as loud as possible, kind of the reason why I am posting in the SPL. Thanks for the help
  18. I have an f150 crew cab and im building a flow through center console for my two alpine typr r 12s. My max dimensions are 13.5 wide and 30.25 long till the back seat but it will come up over the middle of the back seat. I wanna keep it around 17-18 inches tall cause it will serve as an armrest too. The subs will most likley be down firing and im gonna do the port in the area over the back seat. However i know absolutly nothing about ports and since it is a somewhat weird shape none of the box calculators are acurate. Any help on the port design/size will be appriciated. Also, how do you post pics on here so i can show a drawing of what im thinking about doing
  19. I have a 1999 Infiniti I30 with Bose in it, I have a Alpine IVA-W203 Headunit has 6 channel 2v preouts..i was looking at the Metra 70-7551(below), But everywhere i read says i need at least 4v preout with this harness or overall volume will be cut in half compared to factory because of 2v preout... Is there a small 4 Channel Line driver that'll fit behind the dash? Bose is staying in for now until i get the $$ to buy the mids/his i want
  20. No, you do not have anything for sale here.... You can not follow simple detailed rules and farther violations will result in a ban. Thanks for your understanding, And just to give you another chance to read the rules here you go. For Sale: Car audio related equipment only SMD Prefered Online Classified Section! NEW UPDATE 2-13-12!!!!! IF THE THREAD RUNS UNUSED FOR OVER 6 MONTHS IT WILL BE LOCKED. ANY INQUIRIES CAN BE HANDLED BY P.M. TO THE O.P. NEW UPDATE!!! 2-24-09 YOU MUST HAVE 150 POST TO POST AN ITEM FOR SALE (that also means you CANNOT sell items through your sig or in the chat room below 150 posts) I only have a one, the rest is common sense. If your not looking to buy a product that someone has for-sale, Do Not Post in that thread, no matter how much you think someone wants to much money or what not. if you know they are scamming then that's a different story, otherwise Shut up, I'm tired of seeing peeps trying to tell people what is or isn't a good price on something they DON'T OWN. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I hate to do this but people aren't understanding common sense. 1. Do NOT post dump. - Post dump is an unnecessary post - All items listed for sale must be listed with a asking price for each item - If you hate the price don't complain about, its up to the OP(original poster) to set his price, other wise PM him/her - If you are not interested in purchasing or are interested but do not have the money to purchase the item at the time you see the thread on that item that is for sale, do NOT post - Posts may be deleted without warning - Report to mod button is there for the sake of reporting the thread, USE IT - Repeat offenders will have a short ban from the forum 2. Do not question the moderators - No need to explain this rule, basically don't argue with them 3. Pictures with your name and date on a piece of paper shown with every item being listed is a MUST - if you have time to post you have time to take pics. if not we aren't interested in your thread here. - We have a moderation staff, we don't need 40 members posting that they need pics/150 post minimum or it will be deleted, it just clutters up threads and we have to delete all the random chatter to keep the threads clean. This includes responding to want to buy ads offering your items for sale and posting in response to trades or creating a post wanting to trade your items. You can post a want to buy ad to buy items Anyone caught playing Rent-A-Mod will be sent on a 24 hour vacation. The rules are for everyone's benefit, just read them and abide by them its not hard. 4. References will help your sale 5. Do not bump your thread more than once a day - There is a difference between bumping and updating - A bump is a term used to move your thread to the top of the list - Do not BUMP others threads 8. Do not ask us to delete your for sale thread, they will be here for archive, we however can lock the thread. 7. Respect each other 8. NO FEELERS 9. IF you do no have 150 posts you CANNOT sell period. Nothing in sig either. 10. No links to off site sales other than Hot Deals. If you want to sell it here, make sure the post fits all rules for the appropriate section it is listed in. 11. NO RAFFLES WHAT SO EVER 12. DONT ADVERTISE YOUR ITEMS FOR SALE IN A WANT TO BUY THREAD IF YOU DONT MEET THE CRITERIA 13. If Paypal is used as a payment method, payment is not to be sent as gift. Paying as gift provides no protection to the buyer. 14. If you are a manufacturers rep, you are not permitted to move manufacturers new product without being a part of the authorized reseller list. Please see Tony C(SNAFU) for further information. The rules are for everyone's benefit, just read them and abide by them its not hard.
  21. I have a 12" Type R wired to 2 ohms with about 400-450 watts RMS Alpine amp running to it. When tuning the gain and bass boost, I have trouble finding distortion even with gain fully dialed. I was wondering if you have any tips to setting the gain, and listening for distortion.
  22. I have 2 12" Alpine Type R subwoofers. They are the older model (SWR-1242D). I am looking to put them in a sealed box. Alpine recommends using 0.57-1.0 cubic feet per sub for a sealed enclosure. Is this total box volume, or after sub displacement. How much space do the type R's displace? Can anyone give me a definative answer on the box volume? I can't seem to find a straight answer. Thanks
  23. '09 Chevy Silverado (5.3 single cab) out with the old ... Alpine DVA-7996 Alpine TME-M790 Alpine MRV-T757 x 2 Alpine MRV-1507 JL Audio ZR650-CSi JL Audio ZR100-CT JL Audio 12w6v2 in custom center console Optima yellow top D34 in with the new ... Alpine DVA-7996 (hold over) Alpine TME-M790 (hold over) iPad RF 3.sixty.3 RF T600-4 RF T1500-1bdCP RF T1D412 x 2 Morel Hybrid 603 XS Power D3400 Samsung 42" LCD TV Samsung DVD-C500 Nintendo Wii pics to come ...
  24. Sup Guyz, Names Rob from Hawaii, new here figured I would start a build log of my 2005 Mazda 3i. I have a long way to go but I am pretty happy with the way my system sounds right now. I don't compete the scene isn't that big where I live and I did the entire build on my own. Its nothing special compiled with things I have acquired over the years. My system right now it consists of - Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X6500BT EQ - Clarion EQS746 Steering Wheel Interface - PAC SWI-PS Front Sound Stage - West Coast Customs/Diamond D6 X-Over running Polk DB Tweeters and WCC/D6 6x8 Mids Rear Fill - Pioneer TS-A6880R Sub stage- 2 DD1512a in 3.15cu box tuned to 38hz (This is actually a replica of the specs of the Attrend approved enclosure on DD's website ) Amps- Front & Rears on Alpine PDXF4 Subs Rockford Fosgate P1000X1D
  25. Well...here is my build for my 06 Pontiac Solstice. Misc Mods: Dual Air Intake Big Bore Throttle Body Hi-Flow Headers Custom Exhaust Lowered Painted Aftermarket Rims Smoked Tails Custom Made Projector Headlights and Foglights (Two-Toned to match car) Custom F430 bumps Custom Side Vents Custom rear Valence Painted Misc Parts on Car to match theme Interior Audio: Alpine DVD Headunit Dual Infinity Kappa 6.5" Components in Custom made Pods (Arc Audio Tweeters and Crossovers) Infinity Kappa 12" Woofer in Custome made Fiberglass Box behind Passenger Seat 4 Channel Arc Audio KS Amp - 90 x 4 Mono block Arc Audio KS Amp - 600 x 1 Amps in a small amp rack in the rear boot area
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