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Found 20 results

  1. So i will have a 2000 watt amp running two new 10" KIcker CWR 600 Watt RMS subs. Sense each will be getting around 1000 watt max each sub when really needed. I already have the box and 14 Gauge Speaker wires and all. Anyways apart from that i have a stock 60AMP alt and a crap battery. I'm going to be upgrading with a new battery and Alternator and hook it all with 0 AWG. My question is what battery and what size Alternator should i get? i'm looking at the yellow tops but still i'd like some opinions on what i should go and budget i'd say is around $600. and just for the giggles this system is going in a single cab F-100 Half ton Pickup with the famous bullet proof engine
  2. So here's the deal guys, I plan on installing 2 new batteries in my Yukon. I currently only have one in there, but my truck comes with the second battery tray, so installation is not a problem. The trouble I'm having is trying to decide on a battery, and deciding whether to use a isolator or just a plain old "On/Off" Switch. But more on that later First, let me tell you what I'm running, and what i plan on doing with the dual battery setup. You can probably see it in my sig, but I've got 1 run of 1/0 gauge cable, to a single SoundQubed 1200d amp. I also have another run of 8 gauge, running to absolutely nothing, but i plan on doing a 4 channel install with it relatively soon. So here's the deal, I play a lot of music with my truck parked, going to bonfires, parking lots, stuff like that, and ill end up playing music for hours on end. Now, I really cant afford to just let my truck run for all this time, so i always end up turning off the truck, playin music for 30 min or so, then starting it back up so my battery wont die. I want to be able to go longer without my battery dying, and I also don't want to worry about my truck not starting. The batteries- I've been looking at getting 2 Deep Cycle Exide Nautilus Marine batteries from Menards. Link. They seem to be on the cheap side, just $60 each, but actually have better numbers than my current starting battery. My rationale behind these was that because they were deep cycle, i would be able to run them all the way down, and recharge them, without actually harming the battery. The thing I'm worried about, is that because these batteries aren't the normal starting batteries, they might not even be able to start my truck. I guess what I really want to know, is will these batteries work for me? How would something like these be different from an XS, Kinetik, Yellow top? Don't get me wrong, I am in no way trying to start a vs. thread here, I'm just looking for some information on these different types of batteries, and I want to know how they're different. I know that batteries like those would be much better suited for my setup, but as an 18 year old college student that gets 10 mpg, i really cant afford taking a plunge on something like those. Isolator or Switch- I plan on putting either a switch or an isolator between the two batteries. I want one dedicated starting battery, and another for music. Wouldnt it be possible just to put a switch on the wire that connects the two battery positives? Just a basic on off switch, to cut the flow of power. I would leave it on for daily driving, but when i park, just flip it once i turn off my truck, and then i could listen to music without worrying about killing my starting battery. Then just flip the switch back on once the battery dies, and then go start my truck and charge them. Sorry this threads so long guys, Im just trying to give you as much information as possible, so you dont have to play cat and mouse with me asking questions about my system, and what i ultimately want out of my build. Just tryin to make it clear.
  3. I got a group 31 Deka Intimidator Group 31 battery about 6-8 months ago and it was fully charged when I got it on a trade for an old amp. I know that its almost dead by now from sitting but will it still be good to use after charging it or not?
  4. Here's What I Have In My 2011 Chevy Impala Crescendo BC 3500 2 Re Audio Sxx D415 Wired To One Ohm Yellow Top Battery Under Hood DC Power 300 Alt Amp 0 Gauge Wire From Alt Post To Battery Positive & 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Negative Post To Frame 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Positive to Fuse To Cap Then To Amp Stinger Cap Problems: Lights are Dimming At Idle And While Driving Every Since I Put The New Alt On I Been Getting The Service Charging System Message I Think Its Because of The Juice The Alt Is Puttin Out. The Car Hasn't Cut Off On Me Ever Nor Have I Ever Had Problems With It Starting Like A Dead Battery. I Tested The Alt With The Car Off It Read 12.6 Started The Car And It Went To Like 14.5 So Its Charging. I Think The Cap Is Holding The System Back Should I Remove It? How Do I Add Another Battery? I Have the Other Wire For The Big Three Its Just A Pain To Put On On This Car Any Advice You Experts Can Give Me I Will Be Thankful For It
  5. With summer coming up and especially the Indy 500 (I live in Indianapolis and it is the greatest tailgate in the world) I wanted to build a loud stereo for long extended hours at the pool and outdoor activities (aka drinking in the sun). I went online and did some research and all of the portable ipod docks and stereos were just too quiet and, quite frankly, too expensive. I had a bunch of extra car audio stuff laying around and I began to think of what I could possibly do with it. It was in bad enough cosmetic shape that it really wasn't worth selling. I immediately though why not a cooler boombox powered by a deepcell battery. I immediately got to work. Equipment 4 Old Alpine Type E Series 5.25" Speakers. I had them left over from a while ago so they were free. I used some old kicker speaker covers to protect them 12V 35AH SLA/AGM Deep Cell Battery by Zipp Batteries. You can always go bigger but the bigger the heavier and this needs to be somewhat portable. This should give me around 10-12 hours on a full charge playing at full volume. Weighs about 25lbs. U1 Battery Box from E-Trailer. Keeps the battery held down and protected. Pioneer DEH-1300MP Head Unit. Had it laying around and had a AUX and a decent amp which is all I need. Cheap Rubber Car Antenna from AutoZone (Cost me around $12 dollars but I had to get a longer machine screw to mount it to the cooler) Marine Head Unit Cover. Not necessary but looks cool and protects the head unit. Found one cheap on Ebay. Motobatt Waterboy AGM Battery Charger. I originally wanted to do a solar panel but the cost was too high and they weren't really powerful enough to charge the battery. This is a trickle charger to properly maintain a deep cell battery. I learned so much about batteries during this process. 12 V Rocket Switch to act as an ignition switch Cheap Voltmeter from Ebay to keep an eye on the battery level ATO/ATC fuse block panel with ground panel. Keep all the wiring tidy and fused to prevent failures. Found a good deal on one from ebay. Assorted wiring and fuse holder along with electrical connectors I had laying around. Used KNU 8 gauge as the direct leads from the battery. Overkill but I wanted to keep the voltage constant. Cheap Big Cooler. Found one for $5 at the local Habitat for Humanity Restore. Awesome place and a great cause. All in all, I probably spent a little more than I wanted to with the battery being the major purchase (around $65 shipped). I probably spent around $100 but already having the head unit and speaker helped out a lot. Here are the pictures The hardest part was figuring out how to mount things in an insulated cooler. The plastic is thin and there is really nothing for screws to grab to. What I ended up doing was drilling holes and placing epoxy down into the holes to turn the foam on the inside hard. Then I simply used drywall anchors and srews (probably cost me around $5 from Lowes). Doesn't hold super tight like wood but nothing is budging. This is where I would like to do some research. I also cut down on cost by running the speakers off a head unit and not wiring a separate 4 channel amp. I was worried about how loud it would get but it sounds great and gets extremely loud without distorting. This is where I needed to get a longer screw. The antenna is meant to be mounted in a hole in the sheet metal of a car. However the cooler is probably and inch and a half thick so the through screw had to be longer. Just went to Lowes and found a longer one. Worked out perfectly. I was originally going to do two on the front and two on the top but ended up putting the rears on the side. I wanted to leave room on the top in case one day I do decide to get a solar panel trickle charger. Battery Box and Fuse holder all mounted up and wired to the terminals. Also mounted the charger inside in case I need a plug in. Head Unit and Marine Cover all mounted up. The head unit holds itself in really well. The wiring was temporary just to see if the head unit still worked. Here is the switch and everything wired up and fused. I will be posting more pictures. I'm waiting on the voltmeter to come in and I will mount it below the switch. I haven't had time to test it yet because it'd cold as balls and nobody wants to be outside. The next step in the process is breaking everything down and painting it. Here is where I need some recommendations. I have a ton of automotive spray paint and I think I'm just going to do everything flat black. I really want to do fleckstone and make it looks "classy" but I'm trying to go cheap and that stuff is about $10 a can. I think I will stick with the paint I currently have. More updates to come. I may have to wait a little while to paint until the weather gets warm but I will keep a detailed pre paint process. I heard paint sticks to plastic extremely well so I think just a little alcohol, cleaning, and self etching primer will do. Does anybody think I should pre sand a little?
  6. Hi, I have 3 optima yt batteries at the moment to power my amplifier. These 3 batteries is in the trunk of my car and then i also have a stock battery under the hood and i can only fit one alternator. Now to the problem, how exactly do i make my alternator charge the batteries in the trunk without having my bad stock battery in the circuit, i heard that it is not a good idea to to have a bad battery connected to my batterybank. Please help me, it would mean alot. Sorry if my english is bad. Thanks in advance, Tobias
  7. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  8. I'm looking to add an XS battery to a new build. Will be using Rockford P500X1 & P400X2 amps. Which XS battery would be recommended for power? Also, 12 V or 14 V battery?
  9. My friend recently bought an Orion HCCA 15" sub and Orion amp, and let me borrow his old setup until I buy mine in a week or so. It was a Sony Xplod 12" with a pioneer amp rated at 760 watt max. So its a very weak setup. I had it installed in my 2005 altima, and the inline fuse kept blowing, and the tech guys kept putting stronger fuses in. Eventually the power wire (4 gauge) MELTED into. I know this amp/sub were in good working order, because they were working fine in my friends truck until the day I had them installed in my altima. The installers put a "line output converter" behind my stock Bose head unit. The RCA cables, 4 gauge power wire, l and remote wire were ran from the front of the car to the trunk. The Ground wire was bolted to the frame in the trunk. I cant figure out what happend to cause the power wire to melt. Any thoughts?
  10. I really want to see a thread discussing the various ways to assemble a battery bank. What works, what doesn't, and why? I have heard several extremely compelling arguments for theories on how best to wire a battery bank in order to achieve consistent charging and discharging across the bank. However, I have yet to see anyone provide any solid data to back these these theories up. Something I HAVE seen is a number of different wiring methods being successfully put to use in both daily drivers and SPL vehicles alike, which has only made me question if any one method is truly better than another Personally in my own vehicle, i have a small bank of 3 group 31 batteries connected via busbar. I have both a pos(+) and a neg(-) charging lead from under the hood connected to each end of the bank, and the pos(+) and neg(-) leads from the amplifier connected in the center, with the thought being to distribute the leads as equally as possible across the bank. However i have noticed that a lot of guys are connecting their leads only at the ends of the bank, almost as if to force current to be drawn through the bank and not from it. Anyways what do you guys think? any pictures of how your bank is set up? anybody done any testing on this?
  11. Hi there guys Im fairly new to car audio and I just recently switched from having a big truck with a high output alternator to an amazing 2014 Scion xD. Now from what I read up on, my car has a 100 amp alternator. Big difference from my old truck! I recently bought a Hifonics amplifier, it is the BRX2400.1D and this thing is power hungry! Now whats stopping me from installing this is that I highly doubt my car could handle 1600 watts rms. I have dual Kicker CompR 12" subwoofers in a ported box and they are wired at 2ohms at 1600 watts rms. I just bought a XS Power D975 battery and I was wondering if I should replace my starter battery (under the hood) with my new XS power battery. Will that start my car up and power the subs without putting stress on my alternator or should I parallel wire the starter battery and my new battery together to power my amplifier? Please be honest with your opinions because I really do not want to screw my car up. Thank you!
  12. Hey Guys, I have an 08 F150 Supercrew with a 110A alternator. I recently built a new box for a Soundqubed HDS312-D4 and it is running on a Power Acoustic A2400DB at the moment. I want to get my sub a more worthy amp and have decided on the Q1-2200D, That will match the subs 1200wrms and still allow for an upgrade later on if I decide I need more. My question is what electrical upgrades do I need to do before getting the amp? This will be my first system since the early nineties that will require any electrical upgrades and I have no clue where to start. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
  13. In the process of getting the above pictured XS Power D975 mounted in the trunk, but, as is sometimes the case, if you want to be near perfect, a brain fart, & I cannot proceed any further until I get a firm answer on the following ... Which is followed by the actual link to the Topic I started here on SMDF to illicit folks' responses somewhat faster, than just with an "Update" on my Build Log. Sooo, ... here goes: " Good afternoon, Folks ... I am sure this is oft-asked, ... but with these AGM batteries, XS' D975 offering in particular, when mounting in trunk, or any enclosed space for that matter, are vapors, fumes, etc., to be worried about? Or should I scheme up some sort of vent system of either a fan or filter, or both, ... or are AGM's different from Flooded BATTs in this regard, & obviously many others? (I would not be asking this if I have not read somewhere - maybe when I first purchased my D3400, that it was OK to mount these in many wacky positions ... just NOT upside-down ... & that AGM's nearly give off no toxic-ness. ... & if so, which way does any of the "offending" gasses escape? Up? Heavier than air so they lay low? As per my install, I am mounting said BATT terminal side up ... as I, & most would, describe as 'normal' orientation. Ready to mount BATT right now, but need to know if I should be fabbin' something first. Thank you ... " (http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187377-xs-power-batt-d975-sealed-trunk-install-vapors-fumes-etc/ ) Thank to anyone who chimes in either there or here, or both! Be well ... PS: I am taking many photographs of this upgrade! Hopefully it will basically totally address my issues, & I can turn my attention to other stuff ... on other vehicles!
  14. I've just bought 2 UPS/Solar Type batteries to use for my system in the rear, and plan to get another. The batteries are marked as 'non-spill-able' but I believe they still vent gases at some point, do any of you guys use these types of batteries? How do they compare to using more standard AGM Batteries like XS Power? I'm using these because I got them really cheap but will likely upgrade later. I haven't fully tested them on my system yet do they provide good cranking power? Do they charge properly from an alternator? Here's a few pictures of them:
  15. I simply need to be told what I need before I drive myself insane! I have an 03 lincoln ls, I currently have 2 10" Rockford Fosgate punch P3's wired at 1 ohm to a RF punch P700.. It dims the lights and everything but I don't really mind even though I should... I ordered 2 kicker L7s and an mb quarts Q1500 amp. So about a 2,200 watt system. My car has a 105amp alternator. Will I need a new alternator, new battery, or second battery?? If so what exactly should i be getting?I am a little new to all of this so don't be too harsh if this is a dumb question
  16. Hello guys/gals, I'm installing the rest of my electrical in the rear today, which consists of two AGM's and the wiring coming from the 3rd AGM up front. All will be run in parallel. Trying to make it look as nice as possible, while keeping it portable. I have to take my subs and electrical out the car when the boss is in town. I know, it sux... Anyway, my question is this. I have a RF Dist Block, (1) 1/0 in, (2) 1/0 out... I wanted to ground to my original grounding point on the chassis behind my back seat, and also, run a ground wire directly to my negative battery post. So, I will have two ground wires, one coming from NEG battery post, one coming from chassis, into the Distro Box. Then one wire to the Ground on my amplifier, a SoundQubed Q2200.1. My other amp is grounded fine up front, so not worried about that one. Do I need to fuse the Batt - to Distro block? Or do I keep all ground wires, even coming from battery, non-fused? I know where to put the fuses on the POSITIVE side, all good there. So, I don't think I fuse the grounds, but I want to make sure for peace of mind. I don't need an explosion in the rear of my car! Any help will be appreciated!
  17. So i did some searching and didnt really find any general discussion/post that was geared towards the new lithium so i though id post the experience im having with it and see if anyone else chimes in. A little background, me and my buddy Taylor have been into audio for years, i tend to be more into the scientific aspect of it, building enclosures, doing over-kill testing on everything, researching for all the info and reading it until i really understand it, measuring twice and cutting once pretty much, on the other hand my buddy just loves bass and doesnt care to know how it all works, he just cares that it turns on and is loud. anything else is over his head, but lucky for him, hes got the deep pockets to afford to throw money at it to make it work, and a smart friend to solve his problems lol. Previously he was running 5 103ah c&d batteries, 1 x 250amp alt, which were trying to power a dc 9k....obviously it wasnt cutting it. sure it could play, but the 10s werent EVER far away. So after much convincing, a lot of convincing, i talked him into ordering the new Juicebox 40ah lithium, skeptical would be a light way to say he didnt believe me. Not that he ever does, or ever has a reason or the knowledge to rightfully disagree, but nonetheless he did. Well last week the battery finally arrived, and the smile hasnt left his face yet. Juicebox recommended that he have a back up AGM tied in, but i told him to hold off on that and try it just with the 1 battery first to gauge how it would do. 1 dc 9k + 1 Juicebox 40ah and a 250 alt, he hasnt seen the 11's yet, ever, shit he hardly sees the 12s, and even if he had he could be safe into the 10's reliably. This battery is walking all over the 500+ah reserve he once had. Above/below port tuning, its playing with authority and the voltage is always in the safe zone. So for anyone thinking of trying it out but really not sure or convinced, this application is far from perfect, electrically wise, the alternator is much to small to try and support 9k regardless of battery bank, not to mention he never revs to get a decent alternator output, but with this battery there truly are no worries here. heres a picture of the battery next to 1 of the 103ah batteries he previously had. for anyone whos used or seen the 103ah c&d you know they are group 31's and really not very big. the juicebox is about the same length, but a inch or two shorter and half the weight.... it is seriously amazing. ill try to get some videos of it in action soon, JUICEBOX FTMFW
  18. So I have been trouble shooting reasons my amp shuts off on some songs and I have been looking at everything wondering why I keeps going off. I started looking at my voltage and have stumbled on a voltage "loss" between the battery/alternator and the amplifiers so this might be my problem with the amp. My electrical: All wire is KnuKonceptz KCA Kable -200 amp high output alternator with a 14.5 volt set point. -1/0 gauge to the battery with 200 amp inline fuse holder (1ft.). -Duralast Gold 780 cold cranking amps battery. -1/0 gauge with 200 amp inline fuse holder to the rear of the car (12ft.). -Distribution block (1/0 gauge to 4 gauge) with 150 amp fuse. -4 gauge to amp (1.5ft.). -(3) 1/0 gauge ground runs from the battery to chassis, engine block, and alternator (All about 2-3ft.). -1/0 gauge ground to distribution block (1/0 gauge to 4 gauge) -4 gauge to amp (1.5ft.) *The voltage at the alternator and battery was identical no matter the circumstance so that connection is fine. * I have triple checked all my connections including grounds, fuses, and at the amp. I played a 60Hz tone all the way up at idle and the voltage at the battery/alt was 13.95, at the amp it was 12.65. I have loss somehow but I have no idea how of were it could be. I want to get a kinetic HC 600 battery with high quality fuse holders to put next to the amp but will this fix the voltage loss? Any information would be great!!
  19. I've been looking around for some decent budget batteries and found this: http://www.amazon.com/PowerStar--12V-80AH-UB12750I4ALT1-UB12750-Group/dp/B00EPO53P4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1396320441&sr=8-9&keywords=80ah+agm+battery Is this one alright? Any suggestions would be appreciated. It will be my second battery for the trunk and will help power a 2500 RMS amp on a stock alternator. Also, I will be running ALOT of 0 gauge through out, about 40 feet.
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