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Found 5 results

  1. Hey guys, I have a question. Now, I am here to learn, so don't flame me please. If I did something wrong, just let me know. But, from what I've seen on YouTube and how to "clamp test" your amp for RMS power, I did everything correct, or at least I think I did. I clamped the + speaker wire with clamp meter and measured AC Volts, put my DMM leads into the other set of speaker terminals to measure load. I came up with 48.5 volts and around 13.5ohms. This comes out to around 645. Now, I know this isn't dead balls accurate, but we aren't even in the same ballpark as 2200 watts. I wasn't expecting to get that much, but 645? The other formula i used was to this: AC Volts/AC Current = Impendance then take AC Volts squared/Impedance and I get around 670 watts plus or minus a few. Why are my numbers so low? Is this normal? Just doesn't seem correct... I know I'm getting the power to my subs, as they are banging. There is no way i'm only giving my subs 325 watts each... My recorded impedance was 3.55 and I have my amp wired at 1ohm... What's up? Can someone explain this to me? I really would like to learn more about this. I'm also about the strap another 2200.1D and I want to make sure my electrical is on the up and up. Any help/advise is always appreciated.
  2. Good morning everyone. I'm posting this because I was up until 2am diagnosing a voltage drop problem, after installing my additional battery bank (2 Advanced AutoParts Platinum AGM's, 2 in rear, 1 up front). After installing the bank, I went from 13.8 volts at idle, to 13.4. I was scratching my head saying WTF??? Now, my voltage drop steadied out drastically, but I still lost a critical .4 volts somewhere. I want it back! What happened??? Well, I checked all my grounds in the rear. One from negative battery post of one battery straight to amp. Another from same negative battery post to chassis. All good! Move to the front of my car to check what I thought was my Big 3, or 4 in my case. Checked the Chassis to Negative battery post, Good. Checked Alt to Bat Positive, Good. Checked Alt casing to battery negative, Good. I thought this would suffice as an Engine to Chassis ground, as it was tied into the same ground wire that came from my chassis. MAN WAS I WRONG!!!! I FINALLY located the braided wire that went from the top of my engine block to the chassis. I added a 12" piece of 1/0 OFC from engine block ground, straight to the strut tower. BAM!!! SOCK!!! BOOM!!! (Remember the old Batman episodes? Some may be to young to remember. Anyway, off point now. Damn ADHD!), my voltage immediately came up from 13.45 to 13.9! I gained .45 volts with the addition of that one wire! HELL TO THE YEAH!!!! Now, I will be adding a second ground in the rear from the second battery in the bank, to the chassis. That battery has no grounds coming off it, so I will give it a dedicated ground as well. Maybe I can gain another 1/10th or .2 and finally get my voltage over 14? I will be back later to confirm my results... Just thought I would post this to reiterate the IMPORTANCE of proper grounding. Everyone, myself included, is always concerned about POWER POWER POWER, while proper grounding always takes a backseat in our heads. At least it does in mine, and I am being brutally honest right now. I have now learned that your grounds are just as, if not more important than the actual positive runs in the car. I can't stress enough how important is to ground properly people. If this helps at least one person out there, then I'm glad I took the time to post this. Good luck out there!
  3. We are currently in the process of building a bad-to-the-bone new Elite series alternator for Steve's Lexus ISF. We thought it would be cool to show the actual internal components compared to a conventional 270 amp alternator, and explain the difference between 6 phase alternator technology and the old school stuff. Check it out! WARNING: alternator porn inside
  4. Hey guys, I'm a noob on the rise (at least I like to think), but I've never run over 2K watts RMS in any of my systems, until now. I currently am running a Q2200.1 and a Kenwood Excelon XR400-4. I just bought and received a SoundQubed Q4-120, 4 AudioQue 6x9's, and a set of SQ's SuperTweets. I haven't installed any of the new gear yet, but I would like to install a set of the 6x9's for a little added mid bass and the SuperTweets for sure. As far as installed speakers, I have (2) SoundQubed HDS3 12's, Pair of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components, and a pair of Kappa 6x9's. My goal is to buy another Q2200.1 and strap it to my existing. I want to run a pair of HDC3 12's and push them to their max. I know I will need availability to 400amps just for those two amps. Now add in my Kenwood (which is probably another 70amps) and if I install the SoundQubed Q4-120 which is 80amps, I will definitely need a second run of 1/0. Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough upfront... As far as electrical is concerned now, I have a MechMan 240amp HO alt and (3) H6 AutoZone Platinum's with around 210amp hours, that are holding up excellent so far. I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the (2) rear batteries. My question is, would it be best to fabricate some sort of bus bar out of 1/4"x2" flat bar and make all connections there with a second run of 1/0 from front to back? Or just do another run of 1/0 from front to rear battery bank and call it good? Also, do I need to do second runs of 1/0 on the batteries to keep them in a parallel configuration (run another set of 1/0 wires from + to + and - to - ?) Any help with my wiring will be greatly appreciated! I need my wiring to be spot on as all you guys know. If I do this, I will have over 5500RMS and I would like to know if everything is safe. Thanks and once again, sorry for the long ass post!
  5. Electrical: 130 amp alt 4 gauge big 3 70ah agm under the hood 1 run of 2/0 welding wire to the back 110ah kinetic hc2400 in the back with 2/0 welding ground lead 1/0 KFC sky high wire to the amp System: Ct sounds 3000.1 4 Sundown SA 15 wired to 1 ohm So the first 2 weeks were fine going full tilt nothing weird then. About a week ago I noticed after full tilt the subs were a lil warm and seemed like they smelled a lil. At about the same time I noticed my voltage immediately dropping to 12.3 or lower from 14.7. Rarely dropping below 12.0. Could it be that I don't have enough voltage and it's causing the amp to heat the subs up faster than it should. I also notice when I'm driving that voltage doesn't drop as low of course but it's also a lot louder and they don't seem to get warm at all. Could it be that my alternator isn't enough or is going out and the voltage is being a bigger issue than it seems? Side note I have a 240amp on the way no matter what.
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