Kyblack76

Yes sir. My current build has a DA 408 in it, and dude, lol, the lil thing has been flawless for me. Ive seen many bitch about it. But for me, its been fucking great. I will be getting a HELIX model very soon. But, this cheap thing has done great for me. Zero complaints. Best of luck mate.

Simply get a meter and check if you have constant 12vdc on red, and key'd on 12vdc on yellow, and use continuity on the ground. The blue or remote out, is whatever. I dont know if your using it or not, but it, shouldnt make the unit work or not. Easy peasy. Id really look at your ground also. Check your constant, and keyed voltages, and report back

I loved the old BL's, and the UFO's. I remember Scott having a option for a 4" coil for the OG BL. That is pretty rad you found one in the wild, and REAL rad, you are putting it to use. Makes me wonder if a SP4 recone kit would fit in it. May be to tall, but, it may work great. If anything, call Fi, talk to Atwell (Scott) or someone over there, and at least tell them what you have, and what could be done with it these days. And when you do, write everything down, and come back here, and post what was talked about. Id love to hear that. Best of luck. What a fun find.

Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

They say "dont do that", because they dont want returns. That said, im doing the same thing on a 2018 4runner with oem alt. Been great for 4 years.

So you want to charge a volt over the capability of the cell ? Sounds like a fun time.

I love control. I want, and will always have it. I love again, control, so, for me, yes, i will run a DSP in every build i ever have. Unlike yester-year, they are now, wicked cheap, wicked available, and best of all, they WORK. The times of paying 1100 bones for some control, is over. At the moment, im running the 408. It has bluetooth control/connection, and, for me, its been fucking great. History - I had the RF 360.1, .2, .3. Four units from Audison, a Ampere Audio unit, maybe half a dozen Audio Control, and many others. For me, i want control. From pass bands, cuts, slopes, time alingment, EQ, saving and loading different presets, on and on and on. And again, this day and age, the things fucking connect, (back in the day, just gettting to connect to your unit, could pose a billion issues, let alone saving a preset, adjustments, and such) and they just flat out work. For me i wont run a system with out one. Ever. But, maybe for me, now its super easy, and i could see getting into one, a bit of a challenge. Again, you are in control. You fuck up once, and your tweeters are smoked. You put the wrong high pass on the tweets, welp, it will do what you say, and you can EASILY burn shit up. But, for me,..... ill never ever not have one. Cheers KB

Yerp. Do all said above. The amp ill bet is just fine. Ill bet the amp is shutting down from low or high voltage. If you have a decent meter, stick the probes in at the amp (Pos and Neg) and set to min/max, .... go for a ride, or do whatever you need to cause the issue. Ill bet you see the amp shutting down being out the boards wanted voltage. Either spiking high, or, dropping to low. Then, know which and why, move to the next. (you dont mention any vehicle issues, dimming, battery lights or anything, and happens at RPM, makes me think your spiking for some reason, just over the boards wanted VDC range )

If your looking for strictly a burp set up, (I use to love to compete, but never in a burp discipline, i preferred musical disciplines, but that's me, you do you) you will want to play with the vent a ton, and find where the vehicle will help you the most (Resonant freq). Our suburban liked to peak around 44hz, but, that is our old set up, yours will be different. As joe said above, either get a lot more wood, or, get a vent you can play with quickly, then test, change, test, repeat that for the next 30 years. I will say, i haven't really seen many tahoes, competing in the burp lanes. Usually crx's, 3 door hatches, and the like where highly used/desirable for burp/single tone monsters. Again, from what i saw in the lanes. So you will most likely be at a disadvange there already. But, get after it. Id get a term lab, or something you can accurately measure your changes. If you don't know, you don't know. And you'll need to know exactly what went on, after each test, and know what changes affected what. I don't know those drivers at all. But a very very stiff suspension, low mass driver with a higher FS is what I've seen used for playing tones. Exactly the opposite of what i want from a driver, in my set up, but again, i prefer musical stuff. Good luck, and have fun. (I really really got off on testing, learning, trying, failing, and winning, and changing stuff, and seeing it reflect what we did,.... i really got off on that, and was my favorite part of competing, besides hanging out, partying with everyone at the show)

With many OEM's now having a source so integrated with the rest of the vehicle, and, or a source/head unit that is actually decent, many are now offering a amplifer with built in dsp, and even some bass restoration. (Many OEM sources will cut the freq's we all want, like the low low end, or even cut down the volume of certain freq's when you turn the volume up. Its usually done to protect the butthole drivers they use in the audio system). In later model vehicles/newer vehicles, the damn head unit/source can be so damn part of the entire car, running the ac/heat, cruise control, the security system, all sorts of shit) its forcing the audio companies to come out with products that will blend easily with oem stuff. All mentioned above are great. Im a huge fan of the Helix/Audiotec Fischer boards/dsp. Big fan. Although pricey, and hard to find. But many are now doing the same. (as mentioned above with Kicker)

My FB feed is full of my buddys headin to Surf City as of late. That is one large show, ive never had the privilege of getting to, but looks like a freaking ball.

I would make sure, both, are the same coil. Make damn sure. Meter both separately., unhooked.

Ive never heard of or seen the boards/amplifiers. If the above statement that old OG Zed had something to do with them, they may be a ok board. Anyone that look/found the amplifier info, know if they are class A/B ? Are you able to remove the top plate easily, so we can see the internals? (If they are a pain in the taint, dont even try/worry bout it) The Xover, just looks to be that. Just a tool for adjusting pass bands to channels, but not tweaking any frequencies, as far as i can tell. Pretty crazy that todays sources/HU's can do all of that, and more, making those go bye bye. Now, to why i even posted in the first place. And, bare with me. MTX, specifically the first gen Blue Thunders, and the Terminator series, were, to me, the VERY very first "high zoot" driver i ever ever purchased and beat on. This was around 1990-1994. I had a very very large 80x4 clarion amplifier, and set up some 6-1/2" kenwoods in custom door panels (piece of wood, wrapped in blue cheap vinyl, where the little cubbie hole was on the panel) that actually looked ok, and sounded ok, all in a lowered, 1982 s10 extended cable with the v6. Loved that truck. The mtx drivers where in a 6 cube sealed box, me and my step dad built together. Great times. I went through alternators ever 2 or 3 months not having a real concept of power needs at all. The thing, for the time, pounded. Im confident as fuck, that every single person in the small town i grew up in, that loves audio, car audio especially was my doing lol. I miss that truck/vehicle, (i worked my ass off for that thing, while trying to get through high scool) anda also miss the times/fun i had in that thing. Shit ton of young, youth growing/doing went on in that rig.

My reverse cam on my kenwood can come on, when i go to reverse, or parked, or even driving. Not sure what you have going on, but, i dont think just a "im in reverse" deal, triggers the source switch, as, i csn bring mine up, while going 90mph,.... forward

Just remember, that, is a resistive load test on the amp dyno. You wired nominal, AT 2ohms, will put you miles higher. To see that 2ohm power, you would want to wire (nominally) at like .5, (POINT 5) and then underload/reactive, see around 2ohm. Starting at 2, youll see power around 4, or 5, or 10 (music is dynamic, eh?) ohm. Wire it up, and wang on it, ..... adjust accordingly from there, and best of luck, i think it should do you fine, imho. Cheers, and happy pounding.