Kyblack76

All alts have a "turn on" rpm. Im a bit lost on you "tapping" a wire from anything. Even then, that shouldnt matter. The alt, has a turn on rpm. The simple connector should have you not tapping into anything, but, i dont know your rig, build, or that alt. I would call mechman. They are awesome over there.

Lulz... it happens mate, trust me lol. Good to see you around again. Your builds where always the shit. Hope you are doing well, struggles sure, but pounding through em. Stay gold mate.

Yerp, you are looking for "pro audio". Best of luck getting what ya need. That said... pro audio drivers = puke.... but, to each their own. (sits back and waits for the 47 people to tell me "their pro audio mids and tweets sound AWESOME"........) Again, to each their own.

God damn,.. you still around bro? Good shit. Build in your bio pic looks amazing. Hope you and yours are well.

Welcome new members. Something to keep in mind, is the DATE of the posts. Like this one brought back from the dead. Half the people here, where in kindergarten most likely when this post was made. That said, id have 50 subs on 1/10th power, over one. Just me. CHeers, welcome new members, but, .... take a gander at the DATE, of what your reading. Again, welcome.

Because your "turn on " is to low. (rpm)

I think this rig (such a rad OG audio rig) would be just fine making us all a fine fine breakfast, or din din. ... Such a iconic rig. Feel lucky i was able to get there and lick the windows, tho, i had a hard on for the lexus and the honda. The honda is when i even found Steve 4700 years ago lol..... Ping pong was lit also. Oh, and i did rub a few OG Fi/RE drivers, and a few OG amps he had in the back. May, or may no have rubbed a bit of gear in a not so cool manner. ..... Hope you are doin well bud.

0db eh? 0db is as clean as you can get (provided your tone is clean in the first place, -5 would be "louder/more overlap or gain") Then that should be clean as all get out. (for what i played, i loved -7.5, which is "louder/more "gain" ) So, smell, is it a sweet, like sugar smell? Im not familiar with your drivers, tho, i know DB makes nice nice drivers. Seems like you have a scope, as you mention your waves are wavy, which, i dont really get. What you want to avoid on a scope, is a square line. To me, if they arent hot (the drivers) , i think your smelling the coil/former glue cooking off. I know when i get my sp4s a hundred years ago, a few songs in, .. laying into it, id get this sweet/sugar smell. Long story short, i ran those things hard (those here that know me, know) and competed with the for around 5 seasons. Never ever had a coil issue. Did loose a spider on two after 4 plus years of hammering the fuck out of them. But no thermal issue. And i was tripping day one when i powered them up. If your cone is decently cool, id suspect your fine. Run em... and run em how you want to. I think you are fine, and come back in a few weeks after beating on them. Ill bet the smell, damn near goes away.

No idea why you are setting any xover on the HU... you have a dsp. Use the dsp you paid that much money for, to cut, pass band everything. Run the HU open on everything, get in the dsp soft ware, and use the cut offs and slopes.....And turn everything on the head unit to off, and use the dsp you bought. Why you are adjusting freq bands, on the HU when you have a decent dsp, is..... well, .... odd. And when you are "looking for clipping" what are you playing? A song? or? And you have the "bass" on the hu all the way down? Why are you adjusting anything on the HU, if you have a full blown dsp? EDIT- have you even gotten into the dsp software yet? Why are you using the HU to do the job of that money brick you bought? Lets start there first. Show a pic of the DSP software, not the head unit. (and set the hu all to flat, then, use the dsp you paid for)

Which overlap did you use? ????? 0db, -3.5, -5, -10,-20 ???? And you checked if your clean at the HU, and then at the amplifiers? Through and through? If the smell is sweet ,. it could be the glue on the coil,.... or, your baking your coils........ guess well see in time. And, Joe is correct, those boards are pretty dirty to begin with. Can you show a picture of the scope while running the tone (and at what overlap) Edit- and i dont know why dropping to 12.4 would cause any sort of clipping,.. if set up right. Hell id set the dd1, at -7.5db over lap, with the car off. But thats just me.

Get some bacon rollin,.. and we are set. Good shit boss.....Good shit

This case blows for air flow, ... add in temps being 3 digits for 6 weeks straight here, and, why not get a pump, cpu and gpu block,.. chuck a rad or 2 in there, and shove some water through things. Heat killer cpu block, EK gpu block, 360mm rad, 280mm rad, BEquiet silent wing pro fans, aquasuite quadro controller/software ( i dig this thing) , EK d5 pump,res, fittings,tubing. Just a simple gaming rig, nothing serious. HyteY60 case/7800x3d/7900xtx/DDR5-6400 CL30/Asus Strix x670e-e/Seasonic 1000 prime titanium Samsung g7 32" 240hz/Samsung g7 27" 240hz/ROG Azoth keys First go with a loop,... and, I think ill add a loop to my other rig. I have a flow sensor, and some other ish, ready to go in, when I get bored enough to stick it all in. Runs like a top.

Didnt know you had a fuse up front, thought this was it. Then run the fused front line to the fuse holder you have, on the common side (the bridged side) Run it as close as you can to the hot of the rear battery. One single side to the battery, and one to the amp, and your done. If your into fusing every and all, then remember your fusing the wire. If you get it as close to the hot/positive as possible, youll be fine. Make sense? Both batts will be covered front to rear. The spit blocks will cover the rear battery, and wire forward, and the amplifier wire out. You can also use 2 different fuse ratings for the main line, and the amplifier line, as well as using both battery amps, and your alt amps from the front. Think of it as just fusing for the wired used. EDIT- do this.. draw it out on a piece of paper, and send a pic. It helps.

The run front to rear, should be fused as close to the front bat as possible. The run goes back back to the rear battery, and fuse that, as close to the positive post as possible. Then, Come off that battery, ( with the hot) with a fuse as close to the bat as you can get it to the amp. You bought the wrong set up, for what you want to do. Edit- even if you did find and get just two singles, youd be not protected. If you are wicked into that "fuse everything" thing.......

Crossfire