Kyblack76

Watch or skip to around 5:40 A amplifier at 1ohm, doing around 5k on the dyno. The amp dyno is a reactive load test. So a 1ohm test, is like wiring down to .33 nominal,.. ish,.... many factors play here, and no way to know, unless you test. Watch the 1ohm nominal load (the quad box is wired at 1ohm, NOMINAL) on a reactive load, and watch the power made. Now, wire that to a 4ohm nominal,... the power would be around half, or a 3rd of what you see there. A difference even to your ear, fuck ya,... Im with sundown here Wire to one ohm, nominal if you want any power from the board. Or, by a 10k amp, and wire at 4ohm. Edit- daily drive a 1500, at .5. Competed around .33 for music (average time runs) disciplines, lower for burps (reactive load doesn't fluctuate near as much)..everyone in the lanes, does the same. For daily, a 1ohm load, nominal, is completely fine for his set up. Obviously, be smart, regardless

Google impedance rise my guy. Wired at 4ohm nominal, when music is played (a dynamic load) , the board will see around 3 times that,.. reactive. (Good god ive been asking about that a ton lately) Edit- honestly, i see more people blowing their shit, because they "expected more" from a board not even coming close to rated (crank that gain) than people "over powering," from a good clean signal.

Wired at 4ohm nominal, your board wont make dick for power reactive. Wire to 1ohm. Regardless, 1ohm, 4ohm, 98ohm, .25ohm, you need to watch for clipping/noise/distortion. That said, wire to 1ohm.

Doubtful. If the subsonic filter is set to high, less voltage would be put to the drivers. (you'd be cutting off low end), the low pass set to low, would be the same. Less signal, and to high, id think you'd hear the sub playing wonky shit (cymbals and shit). If you are wanging on it, and they just get warm, and you are certain the clipping is under control, I would sweat it, and just let it eat.

That ^^^ and, just using the "3/4" method on the head unit, ... you are most likely leaving a ton on the table to start with.

You,.. have a lot,.. a LOT to learn. Recommend you keep on reading and growing

Bruh... tiny.

Well that turned out great. Made a ton of stuff fit wicked nice. Good shit per usual. EDIT- man, ive used a SHIT TON, of that Raptor liner, but only in the dual part kit. Never used the aerosol can. Looks like it did great. Ive sprayed fucking everything with raptor liner. I love it. I just sprayed my rock sliders with it. I love that stuff. Also, for anyone that knows, what are the silver, threaded holes on the sides of the Titan8's ? Im way unfamiliar.

What volume did your head unit or source show clipping? What if any over lap did you use? Do you listen to any "slower/adjusted" music? How new are the drivers? Could it be just the new glue as i had happen?

https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/e-series/products/e1000-1 https://damore-engineering.myshopify.com/collections/e-series/products/e1500-1 Currently running the 1500.1, and love it. ( .5 on 2 xfire c5's)

Bummer. Your nominal load, would be your impedance, with zero load, or static. Reactive, would be with a load applied. Some call that rise in impedance, box rise (which i hate) or impedance rise, would be "reactive". Make sense? And bummer about your luck. Hope your road gets clearer from here.

Did you use the same negative/ground locations as the first amp you had issues with? And sadly, that can happen. Amps can go pop for zero reason. Was the 1500 used? or ? Also, where was the subs wired up nominally ?? Man, ive been asking this A TON lately on here lol... Seems people that ask questions, never say. And its a very large deal.

Dude, if your wired at .8 ohm nominal, (i took your average you mentioned, also, id be your leads have some sort of resistance also) and you are only rising .3 ohm, congrats, you have magically done, what many people in hard core competitions have tried to do for YEARS. I have a hard time believing you are wired at .8 and rising to 1.2. I'm wired at .5 nominal atm, in my daily, and rise to like 2ohm. Congrats, you are a machine my guy. (also, how are you even measuring your reactive load? Do you have a AMM-1 ??? or did you see it while hooked up to the termlab while competing, i see you posted scores)

How do you know you are not clipping? Edit - And you can absolutely hit thermal capacity, and smell coil, even if you are not clipping. If you put a 17-NS1s on each coil, even though you arent clipping, you will smell that coil at some point eh ? That said, if they are new, you may be smelling glue. I know my brand new sp4s back in the day, would smell sweet, just driving around on low volume. This was the coil glue warming up. It was not coil reaching thermal cap.

The blink, is in the manual. If ya read it fully.