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Found 7 results

  1. Looking for more output at idle from ANY alternator on your 1999-2012 GM truck or SUV ??? Look no further !!! We will soon be stocking OVERDRIVE harmonic ballancers for LS series GM trucks and SUV's with 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, and 6.2L engines, 1999 through 2012. This replacement ballancer has a larger diameter 8 rib crankshaft pulley on it. This means that your alternator or alternators will be spinning 10% faster at idle, which can mean a 50 to 100 amp increase at idle, depending on which high output alternator(s) you have. If you are running multiple high output units and have a problem with belt slip, we also offer an 8 rib conversion that comes with everything you need to swap to an 8 rib belt, increasing belt traction and idle speed at the same time !! (alternator pulleys sold separately) On top of that, we will also be stocking SCT and Diablosport handheld tuners. These devices upload a high performance tune to your vehicle's engine computer that increases HP, and ALSO allows you to increase your engine idle speed to up to 1,000 rpm. The combination of a tuner, crank pulley, and our 370 amp Elite series unit would result in over 300 amps at idle !!! Watch for demo videos soon!!
  2. I think we all can agree that car audio, or anything to do with audio or electronics, can be the most frustrating things to discuss with other people due to the difficulty of understanding and conceptualizing electricity and electronics. In short, there are a lot of ignorant and arrogant people out there who claim a lot of bulls**t to be true yet there are also people who really do know what they are talking about. The trouble is going through all the trolling and blabbering to decipher who really is speaking the truth. To me, the best way to approach this is to first take a step back, and then look at the science, or math. I am a student majoring in Electrical Engineering and I do not know everything. I do though know enough to ask some questions. (Sorry for the monologue introduction. I am venting from the hours of scouring the internet for answers and only finding ignorant arrogant trolls.) SOOOOO, my question for this topic: What is the true electrical limit for a system? I know that the alternator supplies most of the electrical power to the car, while the car is running. When the car is not running, the electrical power is coming from the battery. So: If the car is running wouldn't the only electrical limit be the amount of amps that the alternator can produce? I am asking because there are quite a few people who say just to upgrade the battery or add a battery. How would that help if the car is running? For example: I have a 2007 Ford Fusion. The battery is a Die Hard Gold. The stock alternator is 150 Amps. I am assuming that is peak amps at a high rpm (not sure specifically what rpm). I am also guessing and figured that the car's basic electronic needs (like the computer, fuel injector, and other important electrical components) will need about have of the alternator's rating, so about 75 amps which is about 1100W while the car is running (14.5V). Let me know if this sounds flat out wrong. I want to get 2 SA 8 v.2's and push them with an amp that can deliver 1500W RMS @ 1 Ohm (750W to each sub) safely, efficiently, and cleanly. Now, if the car's basic needs take up 75 Amps of the alternator and even if I could get all of the other 75 Amps from the alternator (which would be at its peak at a high rpm), I still wouldn't have enough power for to get to my amp to give to my subs. The ultimate best I could do is 550W to each sub and but is still in a perfect world of amplifiers with 100% efficiency. If I included a realistic 85% efficiency, each sub would only be getting about 460W. So, the problem: I don't have enough power to supply my amp. Solution: Get more power! How do I get more power? By increasing the power supply's power output. What is the power supply? BING BING BING BING BING!!!!! That is the $1,000,000 question of this topic!!! So many people say just get a bigger or better or more batteries, which would work it the car is off. But for me, I am in my car to drive. When I am driving the car is running. When the car is running, most of the electricity is coming from the alternator. SO WHY DO THEY SAY TO USE BIGGER OR BETTER OR MORE BATTERIES?!?!? Do they only listen to their system with the car off? And even then, how could a stock alternator handle charging a battery bigger than it was designed to charge AND also power the essential functions of the car AND power the sound system?!?!! If anyone is going to answer my questions, at least answer the last few. AND PLEASE!! Don't answer if you don't know. I don't want to become a false informed ignorant douche. I am not looking to pick fights, neither do I enjoy others fighting, so please: RESPECT EVERYONE'S POST and if you think they are wrong, then spend the time to KNOW they are wrong, otherwise, if you KNOW they are wrong, please RESPECTFULLY LET THEM KNOW WHAT THEY GOT WRONG AND CORRECT THEM and explain if necessary. Just because the other person is not in front of you in person doesn't mean you can insult them. NOW, let's talk ELECTRICITY!!!!!!!!!!! PS: This is my first post, so be please be extra nice...... if possible.
  3. I'm trying to understand the concept of batteries and amp hours and how they relate to draw and keeping power to your amp. I'm looking for some sort of ratio, there has to be one, right? You don't have a 3,000w system and need 20 batteries that are 80ah each. I understand the more power you run... the more alts and batteries you'd need to keep your voltage up. I know that the alternators charge your batteries, the more alternators you have, the quicker you charge your batteries because you're pushing more amps to your batteries. Alright... here's my situation; I'm looking to build a new setup in my truck, I'm gonna get (3) 350a Excessive Amperage alts, I already have 300ft of 1/0 Gauge (for several runs to the back), I'm looking to be running about 25,000w-30,000w total. I'm trying to figure out how many 12v batteries to get and how the amp hour plays into it all. Also... I'm really trying to figure out how much more it would cost to run a 16v setup. If it's like $300 more to get more out of my system... why would I pass that up? I'm currently running 5,000w system (3) 1,500w mono amps for my subs and (2) 4-channel amps that are over 400wRMS each. I'm just trying to figure this out because I'd love to go XS Power or NorthStar or Crescendo Logic or Juice Box or any other brand, but if I can get an off brand in bulk from a local battery warehouse, why would I pay more, I'd rather shop by specs rather than by brand. I'm trying to figure out the ratio of RMS Wattage (let's say a baseline of 10,000w) to alternator amperage to number of batteries and/or amp hours. If you have 2 batteries that are 60 amp hours each, it'd be the same as having 1 batteries that's 120 amp hours, right? These are the questions I'm looking to have answered.
  4. MMD & PCD AudioToolBox Wiring Wizard After looking and using several different programs, we felt like something was missing. Most of the programs don’t give you the opportunity to go higher than 4 speakers on 1 channel. With our program you have the opportunity to select up to 18 speakers on 1 channel. The wiring wizard shows you how to wire to 8ohm, 4ohm, and 2ohm speakers. Amperage Draw Then there is the Amperage Draw calculator, with this calculator it is easy for you to determine how many Ampere’s your amplifier is actually pulling in an absolute worse case scenario. We also gave you the option to select certain gauge size and type to get an estimated needed amount of runs. Remember this is only an estimated, we don’t take feet or the particular wire you are using into the calculation. Will there be any additional functions and/or updates? Yes we are planning to add more functions to the program and update some of the functions we already have. Some things we are working on: - DVC wiring diagram update. - Webbased application of the program. - Alternator to back calc. And more secret functions in the making. The program is downloadable here: http://mmdesigns.eu/Calc.html Please leave any feedback, comments and ideas.
  5. I have a pair of DD M2C’s at .5 I am upgrading my stock battery from a deep cycle lead acid to something else. I will have a pair of 300a alts . My question is , I have been pondering the idea of 10 kinetic hc600-rev or 4 xs power 1800’s and last but not least a pair of NSB 480’s . Would there be a benifit to all the small batteries over less larger ones? With the amps I have would these be over kill or am I on point? thanks in advance
  6. Im getting a new charger soon, the one i have now charger my batt at 2amps. The new charget would charge my battery at 3.5amps, i have a kinetik 2400 would the new charger with 3.5a be too much or will it be fine.
  7. Hey guys, just had my first professional install done on my Lexus ls430...the owner of the shop happened to have a similar model Lexus, so that was really cool. What I had installed as listed ---20 foot of Wirez signature 0 AWG copper wire ---Wirez Mini ANL 0 AWG fuse holder (w/ 150 Amp fuse) ---Wirez Fused Distro Power Block - 2 Amp Anyhow, I have a few questions... 1. What is the biggest Amp I can throw on here without adding a secondary battery? 2. If I added a secondary battery in the back and ran the 0 AWG directly from alternator to secondary battery (in this case it's gonna be either a JY power 45 or 79 AH 12 volt lithium ion battery.....would the 0 AWG be enough to charge this battery effectively so that I could power a large amp (eg. 3000 watts RMS or greater? I am just wondering how many batteries I can effectively charge without putting too much strain on the alternator...and of course I am considering getting a HO alternator... 3. If I throw on a 240 Amp Alternator, how can I limit the amount of current that is drawn through the 0 AWG into the secondary battery? eg. do I need a battery management system of some sort?
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