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So I called Crutchfield about adding a subwoofer system to my wife's 2014 Fusion Titanium Hybrid. She has had large systems in her last few vehicles, and does not want to stop here. However, a discussion with Crutchfield left me with some pretty disappointing information. He informed me that if I wanted to add an amplifier, it would have to be 350 watts or less, and a fuse no larger than 30 amps. I am aware that I will need to disable the Active Noise Cancellation mics in the headliner to avoid interference. My problem is this: My wife wants at least 500 watts RMS. Using the following equipment, does anyone see a problem with a modest 500 watt RMS system? 2nd battery: NVX XHC600 12V High Current Car Audio Power Cell Battery battery isolator: NVX BIR500 500 Amp Relay Isolator (BIR500) - Sonic Electronix capacitor: NVX XCAP1F True 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor w/Distribution Block Wired in this fashion: http://www.nvx.com/media/wysiwyg/BIR500.pdf Like I said, my target here is 500 watts RMS. See any reason why this shouldn't work?

So my two re audio srx 12” 2ohm are wired to my Rockford fosgate prime 750.1 wired to two ohms. It was working fine then one day it started cutting out. All the wiring seems fine. I have checked all my wiring by using a multi meter. The only thing i have found is that when driving and subs are connected and the multi meter is connected to the speaker wire and set to ohm or voltage it jumps up and down. But when everything is unplugged and sub box and tested on ohm is reads 2.5-2.8( crappy multimeter). I can’t tell if it’s just the crappy speaker wire i bought from auto zone(12 guage), a bad ground, or something wrong with my amp. PLEASE HELP!!! Thank you!

In Stock And Ready To Go, Now Whos ready to GET LOUD!!

So I noticed the db-r has a 1500d for sale at an awesome price but it is the older second version. My question is. Having vastly different boards (from the pictures I've seen) how much different it is than the newer version. I know output is going to be a small difference but what about cooling ability ( I realize the v3 has a fan) and overall reliability? Thanks!

I plan to purchase some Sundown Audio equipment within the next 2 or 3 days, and I would like some suggestions on where to purchase it. No "brick and mortar" dealers near me, woofers etc. is not an option, 800 woofers is not an option, SSA is looking like my only option, so how is their shipping, customer service? I don't want to order from somewhere that has a ton of old stock, but don't want to wait 2 or 3 weeks for a build either. I have read mixed reviews on SSA's shipping times, but only from one side of course. Any other options other that the ones mentioned? Also would LOVE a coupon code, or forum member discount maybe?! Input appreciated!

Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.

I am awaiting the arrival of my new sundown audio x-12 that should arrive any day now. I have a couple questions if anybody has the time and is willing to help me out a little. 1) The box I have isn't built to spec. I am going to be limited on funds after these next purchases, so I would rather just use it unless I absolutely have to get another one. http://www.atrendusa.com/atrend/pro-series/vented-enclosures?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=229&category_id=35 I know it won't perform to peak potential but as long as it doesn't sound like total poo or have the potential to hurt the sub somehow then I'll deal with it later, thoughts? 2) The amp I have is a decent one I think. It is the Kicker CX1200.1 (seen here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64241_Kicker-CX1200.1-12CX12001.html?SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=22023689&SearchClickout%5BIgnore%5D=1). The birthing sheet that came with it says at 2 ohms it is throwing out 1297 watts constant. It is pushing the hell out of a Fosgate T2 d4 12" right now and has barely gotten even warm to the touch.... The x-12 is rated at 1250, which on paper would look perfect for this build. However I realize that it could take much more with no problem. My question is, approx. at what power does the sub stop producing tangible benefits. In other words, once I reach "x" watts being pushed to my x-12, raising that amount anymore is a waste of money and/or will def harm the sub woofer. If I end up getting another amp, I can trade mine out plus a little cash and score a Rockford Fosgate t1500-bdcp. It's birthing sheet says at 2 ohms it does over 1600 rms. How much better would that be over my amp?? Thanks in advance for any CONSTRUCTIVE criticism that is offered. Please don't even bother to reply if u are just saying something like "Kicker sucks, get a Sundown amp." or "Your brand is awful you are wasting your money." And I know I am stupid so no need in telling me because my wife has already beat you to it. I already have 1/0 guage wiring through out and my deck is a Pioneer DEH-80PRS that I run active with my Rockford T2 6.5" component set. It's powered by an Image Dynamics 4 channel amp @ aprox 75w @ 4ohm. All this in a 2004 Mazda Tribute that is a daily driver (got an 18mo old son so I only get to bump sometimes Thanks again.

What if any are the differences in the sax-1200D and the saz-1200D? Thanks,

The wait is finally over! Over the weekend we received the largest shipment of RP amplifiers ever! Every model including the RP-2000.1D, RP-800.1D, and RP-75.4AB are all stocked and ready to be shipped to your doorstep! Order your RP amplifier today! >> www.skaraudio.com/collections/rp-series << RP-2000.1D RP-800.1D RP-75.4AB ALL ORDERS OVER $100 RECEIVE FREE SHIPPING!!! www.skaraudio.com - Devin

I plan on buying 4 SA-8v2s 4 ohm to go behind the seat of my single cab F250, I was wondering Which amp I should buy to give them a good 800 - 1k watts ea and how should I wire them. I don't have much experience with systems so any extra input would be appreciated.

Anyone interested in a nice little MTX discount? Save yourself 25% on MTX amplifiers and subwoofers by using coupon code MTX25. MTX Amplifiers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m28_i22_mtx-car-amplifiers.html MTX Subwoofers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m28_i39_mtx-car-subwoofers.html We've got the subs to make you bump, the amps the make you dance, and the savings to satisfy your cravings!

Hey all, long time no see. I’m having an issue with a Hifonics BRX 2000.1D, 06 so it’s CEA compliant. I had this amp running in my truck for about four months all fine and dandy. Recently the subs had stopped working then would work again later on after the truck had been restarted. It did this for about a week until it stopped emitting sound all together. I spent quit some time requiring and Metering all connections. All wiring was looking fine, subs are two Alpine type S D4 wired down to 1, gain was always less than half. Tested the RCAS with an rca/aux adapter and speaker which worked and I was able to get sound from the small speaker I had hooked up. After hours of messing and entering everything I remembered I had another amp laying around the shop so I swapped it out and wahla, everything worked fine again. I’ve since switched with another amp and same thing everything works fine. I decided to open the board up, no burning on anything that I could see. I couldn’t seem to really spot any loose soldered joints and I never metered anything on the circuit board yet since this would be the first time doing so. I was thinking maybe the inputs could be bad but I’m not too familiar with internal repairs. The amp will turn on and light will be green (no protect light) but doesn’t output. I’m currently away from home for a few days so I won’t be able to get any readings for anyone to help out as of now. Curious to see if anyone else has had this issue on their board being as I can mostly only find this type of problem with some sort of electrical issue with voltage and improper ground. Thanks in advance for any advice, hopefully I can save a bit of $ by repairing this amp! (p.s I could probably have someone send me internall pictures later on!)

What is a good four channel amp with good sound quality with around 100-130 RMS at 4 ohms? I would like to stay in the $250 to $300 price range if possible, but something less expensive than that would definitely a plus lol. Any opinion would be greatly appreciated!

Hey I was going to use a dc 5k to power 2 m2 lvl 5's but I was wondering whats a decently solid electrical for a 7.5k? Im planning on getting a DC power 320 amp alternator and at least 3 xs d3100's. Would that be enough or should I just stay with a 5k?

nothing here please read the rules you had to scroll through to post this.

I'm looking for an amplifier that will be 1 ohm stable and push somewhere between 1200 and 2000 watts. It'll be used to power two RE SE-x 12" subs. I don't care if the outside is in perfect condition or is all messed up (scratches, missing logo pieces, ect.) As long as it is in perfect working condition. PM me the price shipped to 53184

i wanna buy a good amp to load 2 12" subs so i did my research and came out with these amps that will fit my subs RMS or a little bit more powerful and i can pay for so here what i came out with : Power Acoustik : 1) Demon D1-3000DB http://www.poweracou...s-D1-4000D.html 2) BAMF2600/2 http://www.poweracou...amf-2600-2.html PLANET AUDIO : RXD1400 1,900 WATT http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx Crunch: PZA2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx DB DRIVE: PD2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...D2000.1+RB.aspx Hifonics: 1)Brutus BRZ1700.1 http://www.audiosavi...BRZ1700.1D.aspx 2)ZEUS ZRX1500.1D http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_3575wt_1344 3)HFI1500D http://www.audiosavi...m/HFI1500D.aspx plz this is so important to me i need advice thanx

I recently screwed myself out of a deal and need a new amp. I've been looking around and came across the Sundown SAZ-2500D. (I have an Orion HCCA 12). I just wanted to know what the forum thought about this amp on this sub. I bought a nice sub and I don't want a cheap amp that's why I choose Sundown for an amp, I plan to do this the right way.

wats up guys , im wondering wats the pros and cons of running tool maker dual inputs to a crescendo bc3500 or sundown 3500? like will i see a power increase or is even worth it to buy them.

I was wondering how to calculate the amperage draw of an amplifier. Wanting to get a AQ3500.1 but i need to make sure i can power it 24/7. Link to the amp: http://www.audioque.com/AQ3500D1-Amplifier_p_32.html I dont just want to know how much amps it will take just to power this one, i want to know in general, how to approximately calculate the amp draw for an amplifier.

im going to buy 2 12" skar vvx, they are underrated on 600wrms,, so im looking for like 1300-1500wrms amp with a bass knob, and i dont have to upgrade my electrical system.

now try reading the rules.

So this is my problem guys, i have 8 mid range speakers 8" 4ohm 1000 watts/ 500rms each speaker in my 2007 nissan altima, i am looking for the best amplifier to push these mids to their capacity. now i know i will need more than one amp to these seeing that there arent mid range amps that push this much watts per channel. So im throwing this out the so i can get some feed back on which amp should i get to push these mid range of 4000 watts rms power