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Hey all, long time no see. I’m having an issue with a Hifonics BRX 2000.1D, 06 so it’s CEA compliant. I had this amp running in my truck for about four months all fine and dandy. Recently the subs had stopped working then would work again later on after the truck had been restarted. It did this for about a week until it stopped emitting sound all together. I spent quit some time requiring and Metering all connections. All wiring was looking fine, subs are two Alpine type S D4 wired down to 1, gain was always less than half. Tested the RCAS with an rca/aux adapter and speaker which worked and I was able to get sound from the small speaker I had hooked up. After hours of messing and entering everything I remembered I had another amp laying around the shop so I swapped it out and wahla, everything worked fine again. I’ve since switched with another amp and same thing everything works fine. I decided to open the board up, no burning on anything that I could see. I couldn’t seem to really spot any loose soldered joints and I never metered anything on the circuit board yet since this would be the first time doing so. I was thinking maybe the inputs could be bad but I’m not too familiar with internal repairs. The amp will turn on and light will be green (no protect light) but doesn’t output. I’m currently away from home for a few days so I won’t be able to get any readings for anyone to help out as of now. Curious to see if anyone else has had this issue on their board being as I can mostly only find this type of problem with some sort of electrical issue with voltage and improper ground. Thanks in advance for any advice, hopefully I can save a bit of $ by repairing this amp! (p.s I could probably have someone send me internall pictures later on!)

Alright, i am sure you guys have heard this many times before. I have 4 18" FI BTL N2 subwoofers (V1) and I want to install them in my living room. Being dual 2 subs... I could wire one to one amp at 4ohm in series. So, guess ill need 4 amps. Any suggestions? i have been looking and found a few dayton audio amps.. I havent found anything that does around 1500 watts rms at 4 ohm. I am assuming this isnt common in home audio? Or will i need to hook up my welder to my 750.1? Lol.

i have 4 kenwood kfc 6x8s that are 80 wrms. what amp would be best to power them. I was thinking about getting the rockford t400-4 which is 60wrmsx4 but theyre very underrated and most get around 80wrmsx4+the power from the which is about 22wrms. would this be too much to power them with and how should i set the freq and other stuff on the amp? thanks EDIT: i also found a memphis audio srx 4.300 this looks a lot better

hey wassup guys im doing my install in my 1970 mercedes 280sel it has a inline 6 with a 35 amp alternator ive looked for bigger alternators and i cant find any and i was wondering if you had any tips i will be running eathier a audiopipe 3000 watt or two sundown 1500 amps with to 700 watt rms 4 channels all info is welcome thanks

This is a two part thread. Part 1 So this summer its time to upgrade my components I will be installing a Rockford Fosgate 400x4 Punch amplifier. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p400x4 I have a few installation questions, So I have a 2014 toyota Corolla S plus which has your standard non amplified touchscreen radio and a 6 speaker configuration (2 tweeter 2 front doors and 2 rear deck) I have heard some troubles installing amps into these cars and was just wonder how and what i'm supposed to do here, Reading around i found some information regarding buy a harness of some sort that uses the factory harness with ease and no cutting however I couldn't find said harness. So my next recommendation was to use an LC6i Audio processor and (The harness which i cant find) So instead I picked out an amp that has the capability to utilize High level input via RCA cable from my speakers. (RF Punch 400x4) So I ordered 2 sets of these http://amzn.com/B009B8EJYU Assuming I will need 2 sets (Front and rear speakers) I still don't have a basic understanding how I will even hook these up. So am I going the correct route here? I am trying to make this as seamless and clean as possible while staying on a budget. Any advice to this installation or anybody familiar with this radio and or how to do this? Part 2 I also went to wally world and pickup up a set of these for the rears (Temporary While I plan out what speakers I really want for the rear deck) and Havent purchased any door speakers yet. http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-41DSC6934-3-Way-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00IZNPMPW/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1438007930&sr=1-4&keywords=6x9&pebp=1438007923984&perid=11TGQCWZXZB6JV6ENC3D Got them for a steal at 53.48$ Out the door after some negotiating with the store manager. Now i'm assuming these are piles of shit like most kickers shit and I'm looking for recommendations on some nice 6x9's for the rear as well as some nice 6.5's for my door speakers. A Little background last summer I picked up a pair of CT Sounds EXO 12's that I ran out of 6 cube (If i remember) homemade ported box that I made myself with a buddy using white birch and (I think it was RE box maker) powered by a single CT Sounds 1400.1D Amplifier (yes I know it wasn't near enough power but I spent a lot of time last summer buying different subwoofer sets and shit and ended up giving a lot of my gear away that i bought before (cause I believe in sharing and contributing to bass heads everywhere)) I got the Exos (baddest motherfuckin subwoofers i have ever had the pleasure of owning ) anyway so cash was tight and I couldn't afford to go balls out on a much larger amp however they still sounded nice but i'm sure I hadn't tapped into even 1/4 of the subs potential) again it was last summer and i'm having a hard time remembering, anyways my corolla didn't like the 450 lbs the back of my corolla and I missed my trunk so i took it all out around fall. I still have all of it too. So now I'm wanting to just go clean and install a full set of components with a nice amp for daily fantastic sound with some decent bass without a woofer (yet). Anyways thanks guys I think I thought of everything but if you have any further questions just and thanks ahead of time for any and all advice.

im lookin to buy a soundigital sd16k have cash, and or trade (nice BNIB 4k amp) lookin for asap.

I've been reading a bit on this site, and am thrilled to find such a valuable resource. I have become interested in the efforts to accurately test amplifiers due to the common practice of manufacturers misrepresenting capabilities. I read a thread in the CE Auto Electric supply forum that states clamping an amp will not work for various reasons, notably only measuring VA as opposed to watts due to the absence of phase angle and power factor in the calculations of measurements in an amp driving a reactive load. I understand the Amp Dyno solves this by having the amp drive a purely resistive load. But how many of us would like to be able to directly measure output of different amps driving different speakers? CE states clamping is impossible without a clampable multimeter, o-scope, and in depth calculation. Also, at about $15 per 100w, dummy loads for testing could add up quick, as well as the complexity of wiring and switching for various loads. I happened to find the following ACM-2353 1000 A AC/DC Clamp & Watt Meter which implies it directly measures reactive power with two test leads across the load and a clamp of one leg of the circuit (induced from info under the "application" tab on the product page). Does this mean the meter provides power measurements in watts of a single phase ac circuit with a reactive load, taking into account the phase angle between current and voltage across a coil? Or is all the talk of phase angle just related to the phase difference of voltage in a 3 phase power supply? https://www.tmatlantic.com/e-store/index.php?ELEMENT_ID=2123

I have recently fallen upon a peavey puma-1502 amplifier. I am getting two big America RTR-1530's and I am wondering how I would hook these two speakers up to this amp. Do I need another piece of equipment to split th wattage to the two speakers? Rtr-1530 speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009WBYI Peavey amp: http://aa.peavey.com/products/index.cfm/item/117683/UMA%201502

I need some help on decision which amp I should get. Ive narrowed it down to crescendo 3500, DC 3.5k, q1-3500d1, and a 1500bdcp...for now I need to run close to 2000wrms at 2 ohms but will be looking to get new subs to play at 1 ohm and more watts in the near future. which of these would be best and any other suggestions for around the same price as these?

SO... I have been wondering about this for a while... Right now I've got a Kenwood KAC-8105d monoblock amplifier pushing my one JL 12w6v2. This amplifier pushes 300w Rms at 4 ohm and 500w Rms at 2 ohm. the sub can handle 600 watts Rms. Right now it is set to almost full blast and i feel it can be louder.. because its not that loud. The amp gets pretty warm I think its either because Its up too high or my sub is too much for it. Ive been wondering about upgrading. I wanna get a Kenwood KAC-9105d. It pushes 500w Rms at 4 ohm and 900w at 2 ohm. I know 900 is too much but I will have it tuned lower so It doesnt blow the sub and so its more then 500 Rms. Is this a good idea or??? is there any other amps out there that push around 600 rms at 2 ohm??? i can get the kenwood off SonicElectronix.com for $175. Thats a good deal!!! anyways.. any suggestions would be helpful. Here are specs for amp I want to get, sub and amp I have now; Amp I Want; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22574_Kenwood-KAC-9105D.html Sub I Have; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4010_JL-Audio-12W6v2-D4.html Amp I Have; http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22732_Kenwood-KAC-8105D.html

I recently purchased 2 12 American Bass VFL comp, looking for a amplifier to push them to the max potential at the meter and to play music occasionally seeing I don't drive the car every day. I have been recommend to buy a 1100.1 AB or a 750.1 AB. Should I get something smaller? An suggestions?

Does anyone around north east Georgia area (athens, commerce, toccoa, carnesville, or even in anderson SC) have a DD-1 that i could "rent?" I only need to use it once for my sub amp (no mids and high amp) . not really rent but pay to use once. id rather not buy one right now cause of low funds after buying a new amp but i would like to tune it right. Thanks in advance. Greg

i cannot decide on the amp to use for my kicker L5 15" 750w rms. I am looking for a mono amp that can put out at least 1000w rms at 2ohms. And a 4 channel amp for my door speaker I was looking at an alpine, cadence, pioneer,sound stream, rockford, audiophile, jbl. The cadence was not cea, and the audiopipe had a bad c /n ratio. and the alpine and rockford were a little expensive. I'm not looking at expensive amps. Something not to much over the 200$ price point.

ok so my set up is i have 4 gauge wire running to my trunk area and have a second battery running 2 ken wood 1800w monoblock class d amps. 4 kicker 12cvrs and 4 gauge grounding the amps 80amp inline fuses(3. one from front battery, one to each amp from second battery). everything has been running fantastic until today my inline fuse to one of the amps blew so i replaced it, then the fuse in the amp blew, i replaced it lol, then the inline popped again. idk what the problem is with it but ive checked the power wires and ground and there is nothing wrong with them everything seems to be fine. so if anyone has had this problem or has a general idea how to fix this please let me know. i would greatly appreciate it

I saw dual brought out a bunch of new digital amplifiers. anyone had any experience or care to place an input on how they perform? primarily the DA1504

(Sorry if bad english) Hi, I currently have a Hifonics BRX2416.1D (which delivers 1600w at 2 ohms) for my Sundown X12 V.2 (1500W, dual coil). The sub is 4ohm and wired at 2ohm, so it takes about 1600W. I want to buy another X12 V.2 D4, and a BRX3016.1d (which delivers 2000w at 2 ohms) to have a good amount of power and to wire the two amps as slave / master. But I really don't know : - Is it possible to wire two different amps as slave master? (like the 2416.1d and 3016.1d) - What will be the impedence if I put my two subs in parallel or series? - How many watts will each subs recieve? - If I manage to get about 2000w for each sub, will they take it or will they break? (I heard that sundown subs are underrated by the manufacturer) Thanks !

I'm planning to purchase a Fi sp4 15 or a similar type subwoofer in the near future. I was wondering what your guys opinion is on getting a hifonics colossus 3200w amp or 2 mb quart onyx 1.2000d amps to power the one 15. I'm trying to stay around the $500 range for an amp purchase. Thanks.

ok so on my quest to find a better amp than the one I have now ( alpine mrx-m100 600 @4, 1000 @2, 600 @1 that's straight out the manual) ive came acros an older alpine mrv1507 the alpine mrv 1507 is near 18 or so inches long and it is a 2 chl amp heres the spec form user manual 12v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 150w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 300w 0.3% thd bridged 4ohm - 600w 0.3% thd 14.4v 20-20khz per chl 4 ohm - 225w 0.08% thd per chl 2 ohm - 450w 0.3% thd bridged 4 ohm - 900w 0.3% thd ive done some of my own research and everywhere I found says the amp is under rated but how far? and does anything it will handle 2 ohm bridged daily? ( I never drive far or bump to long so about maybe 10 or 15 min runs ) ohh asking price for it is 200 bucks

I am new here and have lots of questions for you all. Some of these questions are probably very stupid and I should already know the answers...but I don't, so take it easy on me please. I had been running the same system for the past 5 years in my old vehicle, and I want to change it up. Old vehicle R.I.P, "new" vehicle= 2004 Ford Escape (3.0 v6 if it matters) Here's the plan... Stock alternator, Optima yellow top, big 3 upgrade, SoundQubed HDS315, SoundQubed Q1-1200, sub up-port back... Now the questions: 1. Will I be alright with this, or will I NEED a high output alternator and/or additional battery? ...will have lots more questions based on this answer 2. I should I wire from 2 ohm to 1 ohm...correct? 3. Can I run 0 gauge wire? 4. Anyone have a contact for box design?

so a fellow car audio bud of mine is selling off his setup to upgrade..... 2 15 aq hdc3s and 2 planet audio bb 2400.1 Ive heard they don't do rated but they can do close to rated... I don't need the 1700w claimed at 2 ohm I only need like 1200-1500 (upgrading from an old alpine mrx-m100) to power my sundown x 12 d4 im not making it a perm amp just something to give the sub more juice until tax time anyone got some info on these amps (I know he hit a 154.3 in a 8.4 cuft box tuned to mid 30s in a dodge caravan w/ 7 agm batts stock alt) but I don't have that much electrical I have 2 kinetic hc 1400s and 1 run of 1/0 on a stock Honda alt any opinions or info would be awesome (getting the amp for 200 w/ tool man dual 1/0inputs (going to be getting a nother run of 1/0 during tax time also)

Hey everyone, recently I have been having troubles with getting a really good solid ground for my amp. I have a 1995 Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. The car is a uni-body. Does anyone own a firebird/camaro that has dealt with this, or does anyone have suggestions for the best ground point in my car? Thanks in advance!

1. Product: (1) Skar Audio LP 1000.1D Monoblock Amplifer 2. Specs: LP-1000.1D Techinical Specificaitons Class D Monoblock Amplifier 2 Year Manufacturer's Warranty Stable @ 1 Ohm Model Number : LP-1000.1D RMS Power @ 1 Ohm : 1000 Watts x 1 Channel RMS Power @ 2 Ohms : 700 Watts x 1 Channel RMS Power @ 4 Ohms : 430 Watts x 1 Channel THD @ 4 Ohms : <1% Low Pass Filter : 50 Hz ~ 250 Hz Bass Boost : 0 dB ~ 15 dB Signal to Noise Ratio : 92 dB Fuse Rating : 40 Amp x 3 Phase : 0~180 Degree's Subsonic Filter : 16~50 Hz 4 Gauge Ground and Power Terminals Slave / Master Switch Built In Low Pass Crossover High Level Inputs Gain Remote Knob & Wire Included Mounting Bracket Hardware Included 3. Description/Condition: This amp is in perfect working condition and includes our standard warranty as all of our products. It looks nearly perfect cosmetically and only shows sign of very minimal use. 9/10 if I had to rate it according to cosmetics. Again, it works perfectly. You are basically getting an almost new amplifier for a fraction of the cost. 4. Price: : We are looking at selling it for $200 shipped. NO TRADE-INS, sorry. Willing to consider offers, cash only however. Because we only have one, it will be 'First Come, First Serve' You can send the payment via our PayPal account - [email protected] Ships UPS ground same day payment is made, along with the tracking number sent to your email. 5. Pictures:

i have two P1 12's being powered by an Alpine MRX-M50 (500 watt) and my lights already dim when the subs hit, even when im driving. i was thinking of changing to two 10's maybe p3's or W3v3's and a JL jx1000/1. My question is whether i would need another battery to power that amp with or if maybe my alternator or battery might need to be replaced.

We at D'Amore Engineering have started an amplifier repair business. Rockford Fosgate being our specialty naturally, as nobody in the amplifier repair business knows Rockford like we do. If you have another brand of amplifier that needs to be repaired please fill out the form here and we will get back to you with an estimate. http://www.audiorepairdepot.com/contact-us.html AudioRepairDepot.com

Whats good SMD, So up for sale is four (4) BRAND NEW IN BOX Powerbass XTA 6000D monoblock amplifiers: 1100 shipped firm a piece...THIS IS A STEAL! NO TRADES See bottom for contact information! Reason for selling is that these are a low voltage operating amplifier 10.5-15.8v....I am looking to run multiple 16v amplifiers. Like I stated above, these amplifiers are BRAND spankin' new and have never seen power. They have been taken out of the box once to be visually inspected for condition after the shipping process to me. These amplifiers are stoopid beastly, I used to own a Sundown 4500D....This amp makes my ex-sundown seem puny and this monster actually strains you to pick it up. I paid big money for these amplifiers, over $1600 per amplifier. These amps run almost $1700 new on amazon, ebay, etc...My loss is your gain. Here are some specs: Channels (mono): 1 Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 6000 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 3000 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 1800 watts Strapped Output Power @ 2ohms: 12,000 watts Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 300 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.1 % S/N Ratio: >90 dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2 V - 8.0 V Dimensions (in Inches): 13.5" x 28.5" x 2.75" Enough talk..lets let the pictures do the talking! Included is the instrution manual, bass knob, mounting equipment, allen wrenches, and some decals. Please PM me if you have any further inquiries about the equipment. Please also feel free to text/call my cell phone at 570-933-2172. I am from central Pennsylvania for reference. Once again all my items for sale are shipped for free to the lower 48 states.