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Found 8 results

  1. So ive set up my 3sixty.3 and it seems to work fine up to a certain point. Its in a 2010 mazda 3 using the stock head unit. The 360 finds the max volume at 53 out of 63, and everything seems to work very well whilst it is still hooked up the the laptop and the software is open, but once i disconnect the usb i can only turn up the head unit to 34-36 and it starts cutting out. Ive noticed it does it more in bassier songs but i doesnt help if i turn down the bass and midbass settings. There are no subs connected at the moment just a 3 wat front door setup. Anyone seen anything like this happen before??? Ive tried setting up the 360 with the max volume on the Headunit at about 32 but at that level i get alot of noise in the system. Cant seem to get around it. Spent last night fiddling with it, adjusting amp gains and 360 input gains but cant seem to get it to work properly. Reinstalled the latest software and reflashed the unit with new firmware. Still no change. Hope someone on here can give me some advise.
  2. i was thinking that someone should make the a new DSP for everyone to use for car audio. alpine won't talk to me about it. and I'm looking for someone to step up. and build the best DSP in the world. hi my name is rob simon and I’m opening a business to sell car audio. and like to buy and use car audio too. all the DSP’s in the world are no way near as nice a what i want a DSP to do. and i am coming to you guy for some help with a new DSP. the PXA-H800 is getting old and its time to retire it for good. and make a hole new DSP with some of the old fetchers as the PXA-H800, but bigger EQ's and more EQ’s and more Adventist filters and the list goes on.i have looked at other DSP on the market and i think they can’t be put the fetchers somewhat together and new stuff on the DSP to make one kick ass unit with all the DSPs in the market are obsolete for years now and some have built new products that came out this year were obsolete before they were designed. I’m also in to Ground Zero Audio and Morel Audio. as well as Alpine and i like 3 way component sets with out a crossovers so the 3 speakers would have 3 channels of outputs on the DSPs in link mode for the amplifiers to hook too. its good with pro audio speakers with 6-way speaker set up hex-a-amp or hex-a-wire with 8 channels of 6 DSPs in link mode you will have 48 pre-out outputs more then a naff outputs. i will be using the E3iO windows 10 based double din computer in the dash. WIFI audio streaming and DSP controlling from IOS/Android/Window/Mac XOS USB Computer link for Windows and MAC optical Toslink inputs and output for audio playback and link mode DSP link mode to link up DSPs for more outputs low level 3 sets RCAs inputs 8v 8 outputs RCAs in 1 DSP fresques respuons 5hz to 25khz crossover: off/on / Low pass/ high pass/ band pass, selectable on each channel 5HZ to 25KHZ -6db/-12db/-24db/-32db/-46db/-64db parametric EQ 52 band 5HZ to 25KHZ on main and each channel graphic EQ 52 band 5HZ to 25KHZ on main and each channel DTS 5.1 Dolby Digital 5.1 Dolby Pro Logic 2 Imprint with mic audio zoning front rear side to side optional RUX-C800 type updated display Bi-Phantom function High Res audio (DQA format) subwoofer VOL and Xover off/on for sub’s surround sound/mono/stereo on/off for any channels and mapped out on Alpine’s apps as surround subs. main subs no surround sound for the DSP more fetchers like the h701 and h800
  3. Hi guys, I freshly installed my 3sixty.3, everything works, all wiring is correct no bad grounds whatsoever Remote out and in delay is set to 4 seconds, and still when I switch off, I hear a loud pop sound. What could this be? Please assist! Thanks!
  4. I've been looking online for a replacement crossover for my Mezzos (fried the board) and I came across miniDSP. The products look good and I'm intrigued at the possibilities. Is anyone using any products from miniDSP (www.minidsp.com) and if so I'm looking for some feedback. Are you satisfied with the quality? Do any of the products introduce noise? Are they as easy to configure as they appear? Are they accurate and reliable? Looking for feedback. thanks in advance
  5. Hi All, I'm putting together a sweet 10 channel active system in a new Tesla Model 3 that's fairly complex, and I want to make sure there is a single volume and bass knob. My favorite so far is the JL Audio DRC-200 because it has both volume and bass control in one unit, but the trick is getting it to work like I want - help! There are basically two input groups (via DSP presets) going into a AudioControl DM-810 DSP. The first is the car's stock signal via high level inputs, and the second is a hi-res source via Optical. I was thinking to put a JL Audio Fix 86 before the AudioControl DM-810 so the JL unit can control volume, but that will only work for the stock signal. The Fix 86 doesn't have an optical in like the DM-810 does, so the knob won't be able to control the hi-res source like I need it to in that configuration. If I use just the DM-810 for everything, I'll have a unified volume knob by using the AudioControl ACR-3 knob but it has no bass knob (i.e. it's just one control, not two). Do you have any ideas for how I can pull off using the JL DRC-200 for everything? The closest thing I can think of will add a lot of cost, and I'd lose two output channels by going from 10 down to just 8. This would involve putting a JL Audio TwK 88 after the DM-810. That way the DM-810 could flatten factory signal (like the Fix 86 would have) for the stock signal, which the TwK 88 would then tune with its EQ. On the hi-res side, the DM-810 would tune audio and then just pass through the TwK 88 without any changes. With the TwK 88 last in the chain, I would be able to pass everything through the DRC-200 knob, but putting the TwK 88 last means I'd only have 8 output channels rather than the 10 I need coming off the DM-810. If it were possible to put the TwK 88 before the DM-810, that would be great, but there aren't any high level inputs on the DM-810. This could technically be solved if I used a Fix 86 before a TwK 88 and then the DM-810, but that seems like such a HUGE waste of money and equipment. If you could let me know any better idea to get the DRC-200 to work, I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks! -Eggz
  6. Hey all, Just finished installing some subs for a friend. He bought two Rockford P2D2's and a Prime R1200 amp to run the subs at a final impedance of 2 ohms at about 800w RMS. The car we installed it in is a 2011 mitsubishi lancer with the OEM premium 710w rockford fosgate sound system with a factory 10" long throw dvc sub running 150w rms (according to factory specs). Among the aftermarket equipment he purchased was a high power NVX line out converter which we installed parallel with the factory sub. The LOC is supposedly rated at 300w peak. I have a handheld oscilloscope which i used to analyze the signal coming from the factory system. On his headunit, he has a standard bass control, and another bass control called "Sub Punch" which can be set from 1-6. This control gives the factory sub more of a "punch" i suppose. Anyways, I hooked up my o-scope to the wires going to the factory sub and then played a 40hz 0 DB tone over bluetooth. Upon cranking the volume, the signal started to clip off. Without touching the controls, I see the signal start to decrease by itself to the point at where its not clipped. We cranked the volume to the max volume of 45, and the same result was seen. A clipped signal followed by an automatic decrease to a clean signal. We even put the bass and Sub punch to max to see the same thing. Only difference is that when the volume was at max, I saw an extremely clipped signal. Once again though, it recovered itself to a clean signal. The oem amplifier has some DSP built in or something. I have never seen an amp do something quite like this before. Most of the aftermarket are dumb and don't care if the signal is clipped or not
  7. I have a question and I apologize if I posted this in the wrong section: If you have your amps set so that the speakers do not distort at max headunit volume and you add a DSP to the chain before the amps, do you have to reset the amp gains, or should they be lower? I dont want to be too low in noise floor or too high, I like tuning so that at max volume none of my speakers will distort even on the most absurdly compressed modern dance songs.
  8. Hello guys, I need your help. Maybe anyone of you has any experience with this issue or Bit One configs. The thing is that I have wired my Bit One and it does receive 12 volts from the battery, but it doesn't power up. What I've tried: - My friend has a Bit One, I tried replacing his with mine and it didn't work, while his does. - Tried a different DRC and manually powering it on - Hooking it up to the battery What I haven't done yet: - Connect it to a laptop with USB to see if it turns on (haven't tried because I am not ready to tune it yet as I've just only wired it) Things I'm unsure of: - Is it possible that a config causes this issue? (probably not as it should turn on when it's hooked up straight to the battery I'm guessing) - Is it possible that, because my Bit One hasn't been powered on for half a year, perhaps it needs to be 'charged' Anyone, please help me! Edit: could it be that it just turns on when it senses an audio signal?
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