Guest Wood Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 did a few more things, mounted my gain nob where the factory SR5 clock goes. wired in a switch to the remote, welded a couple more braces in, one on the bottom of the inner frame, then another outside the box in the back. then started going WILD with some guerrilla tape to try to seal off the back wall. i made a lot of holes and stuff from mounting old boxes in there and what not. also hope it helps with the resonance of the back wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt402 Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 nice =]. i think u should have waited until after u metered it tho so u could test again & see what u gained... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afrodeezyak Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 sick truck man, this is making me very impatient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Wood Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) I suck at bondo and sanding. sorry the video is sideways and shitty, but you get the idea. Edited July 12, 2011 by Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 it doesnt look like you used filler at all in taht actually. the only thing i can see is you can see the line where your panel meets the factory panel. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Wood Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 it doesnt look like you used filler at all in taht actually. the only thing i can see is you can see the line where your panel meets the factory panel. yeah i did, used bondo, the combat spot putty on top of that. just not very much. the bondo it the light green and putty is brown. i needed to feather the edges a lot more but i only spent like 2 hours on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 for two hours thats pretty damn good. one of the best things ive found for stuff like this is the flex filler from urethan supply. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaughter Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 nice flex, can't wait for my blow through Quote SOLD 2006 Ford Ranger Single Cab2 DC XL 15's2 Crescendo BC2k's4th Order Blowthrough CURRENT 2012 Dodge Charger R/T 2 Tantric HD 12's Ampere 3800 2 XS XP 3000's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Wood Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 for two hours thats pretty damn good. one of the best things ive found for stuff like this is the flex filler from urethan supply. thanks man, and yeah i didnt spend any money on anything, im strapped, just had this stuff left over from painting my truck and the fiberglass from building my box... nice flex, can't wait for my blow through thanks, i have some better videos somewhere floating around, ill post em in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Wood Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) iPhone videos.DC Audio FTW Edited July 12, 2011 by Wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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