outsideshot23

best wax/method for removing swirl marks??

14 posts in this topic

We use the Autokote line of compunds and finishing glazes where I work. Assuming you have a high speed buffer to use, Start out with a white(heavy) buffing pad with rapid cut compound. After that step down to a black(finishing) pad and some finishing glaze to get out the swirl marks. It helps to wet the vehicle sometimes, especially if it is black when removing swirl marks.

Make sure the car is as clean as possible and work on one panel at a time. Other brands like 3M Perfect-it are great products to use too. Any automotive paint store should carry the compound and the pads for your buffer.

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We use the Autokote line of compunds and finishing glazes where I work. Assuming you have a high speed buffer to use, Start out with a white(heavy) buffing pad with rapid cut compound. After that step down to a black(finishing) pad and some finishing glaze to get out the swirl marks. It helps to wet the vehicle sometimes, especially if it is black when removing swirl marks.

Make sure the car is as clean as possible and work on one panel at a time. Other brands like 3M Perfect-it are great products to use too. Any automotive paint store should carry the compound and the pads for your buffer.

i got a DA

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You need something that is going to spin faster than a DA to actually remove imperfections. Swirl marks are a byproduct of either a dirty surface or lack of material(compound) on the buffer. I would invest in atleast an electric high speed buffer.

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FYI, wax doesnt remove swirls. Jbaby, im disappointed with ur advice being that ur a so-called professional who gets paid to do this kind of work. The #1 rule in detailing is only go as agressive as you need to. Just because you have swirls doesnt mean you automatically need a heavy cut pad/product combo and surely doesnt require a high speed rotary. When I get home I will post pictures of numerous jobs I did where paint correction was the goal and I did the job with a random orbital buffer.

Anytime you take on a job like this its ALWAYS best to start with the least agressive pad/product combo and assess the results on a small section of the car. If its not enough correction then you can get more aggressive with it by changing your pad and/or product. Starting out too aggressive can cause you to take off too much material, I dont know about you but ive always found its alot easier (and hella cheaper) to take more material off than it is to put it back on.

So to answer the op's question, I cant tell you exactly what pad and product to use on your particular car without seeing how bad the swirls are but rest assured you can get a very high level of correction so long as you have a nice DA buffer like a porter cable or similar. Youll need to get some pads too, cutting/polishing/finishing, and have a few polishes to choose from, some that I like are Optimum Polish, HiTemp medium cut and their xtreme cut for the hard paints and super heavy swirls. Depending on the job you may need to do a 3 step polish (cut/level/finish) and then you can wax it once all the polishing is done. Let me know if you have any more questions.

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All of the pics posted below are cars that I detailed (i'm not a pro, just a hobby of mine) using a Porter Cable 7424 and various pads/product. The only one I used a rotary on is the black Mercedes due to the abnormally hard paint Mercedes uses (I guess super heavy swirls might have had something to do with that decision too).

Mercedes S430

Before

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After

S430094.jpg

S430070.jpg

S430040.jpg

S430063.jpg

Expedition

Expedition017.jpg

Expedition058.jpg

Expedition047.jpg

Expedition010.jpg

Expedition031.jpg

Civic

7.jpg

7-1.jpg

7-2.jpg

7-4.jpg

7-11.jpg

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Jaguar

RichardsPicture009.jpg

RichardsPicture010.jpg

RichardsPicture014.jpg

RichardsPicture013.jpg

RichardsPicture004.jpg

RichardsPicture002.jpg

RichardsPicture018.jpg

RichardsPicture021.jpg

So as you can see, you can obtain lots of correction without having to use a rotary buffer, it's all about pad and product selection (I guess you need some skill too).

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Jaguar

RichardsPicture009.jpg

RichardsPicture010.jpg

RichardsPicture014.jpg

RichardsPicture013.jpg

RichardsPicture004.jpg

RichardsPicture002.jpg

RichardsPicture018.jpg

RichardsPicture021.jpg

So as you can see, you can obtain lots of correction without having to use a rotary buffer, it's all about pad and product selection (I guess you need some skill too).

looks good.. i got my da at the other house but i might look into buying a polisher. in the mean time i picked up some meguiars swirl x and was very disappointed. It took away the big swirls but lefts thousands of light ones. this is supposed to be a very low cutting polish. I originally wanted to get the Ultimate compound now im not so sure. I have tone of swirls some are worse then others but its not near as bad as that mercedes. I have never used a cutting compound so i was thinking of just getting the UC and finishing it off with some sort of polish then a wax??

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All of the pics posted below are cars that I detailed (i'm not a pro, just a hobby of mine) using a Porter Cable 7424 and various pads/product. The only one I used a rotary on is the black Mercedes due to the abnormally hard paint Mercedes uses (I guess super heavy swirls might have had something to do with that decision too).

Mercedes S430

After

S430094.jpg

S430070.jpg

S430040.jpg

S430063.jpg

Expedition

Expedition031.jpg

7-11.jpg

wow SQ you do great work you should come to NC real quick take care of my baby. i bought an explorer a month ago and got it out last week, cleaned it dried it waxed it all by hand and it was my first time....needless to say it took FOREVER!!! it was a good experience though. so how do i get that shine? polish then wax or did you wax then polish? im thinking im gonna need to go invest in a electric spinner or whatever you call it

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