Miggz96 Posted April 3, 2011 Report Posted April 3, 2011 Hey guys, i know this is my 4th post in this forum in 2 days but I want to make sure I'm getting everything planed out right before i go and buy stuff that wont work. This hour's problem. Battery relays. The stinger ones I'm looking at are rated in amps. There is a 100, 200 and 500 amp version. Do I base which one I choose on how many amps the battery it's separating (in this case 412 amps) is dealing with, or another amp count. Any help much appreciated. If I'm goin to hell, I'm going in a HOLDEN!!! Speed doesn't kill, Its the stopping suddenly that gets you. Quoted by the one and only Jeremy Clarkson. Build: A Secret!
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted April 3, 2011 Report Posted April 3, 2011 You dont need a relay unless you plan on playing your system off for hours at a time and want to be able to start your vehicle back up. Other than that, useless and a waste of money.
bignickk Posted April 3, 2011 Report Posted April 3, 2011 yea you dont need anything like that. plus relays are the worst they have a voltage drop of .7 if anything get a diode based isolater they have little no to no drop. but you really dont need one 2000 tahoe orion hcca 15.4 kicker zx2500 2 JL 300/4s infinity and kicker mids/highs KHC1400 in back, stock upfront dont ask about my HU clarion EQ kicker/fosgate rcas
Miggz96 Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Posted April 7, 2011 Mad. Glad i didn't buy it before someone answered. If I'm goin to hell, I'm going in a HOLDEN!!! Speed doesn't kill, Its the stopping suddenly that gets you. Quoted by the one and only Jeremy Clarkson. Build: A Secret!
Purplehaze Posted April 7, 2011 Report Posted April 7, 2011 Yes they are right. An isolator is a big waste of time and money, in the world of car audio. I learned this the hard way in stage 1 of my build. Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
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