LoudBurp Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 Well i would imagine the reason for not grounding an amplifier to the chassis in a boat would be the lack of said chassis. Ridiculous? With the average car stereo people do not have upgraded connections under the hood which would make a connection the chassis a safe bet. Corrosion of connections under the hood is common, and if the connection was to go bad and you had your amplifier grounded to your battery, you WILL have issues. I dont understand why a Bolt through the vehicle is not sufficient. obviously if you are competing and looking to gain .5db with a terminal ground, then sure. If your that deep in it you would be aware with your connections anyway. To call this idea ridiculous is nonsense. This is something that has been gone over many, many times. It is completely vehicle dependent on how much an isolated ground makes a difference, but generally speaking isolated grounds are normally better than grounding to the chassis. To say that it's impossible to burn up grounds due to loose grounds somewhere else isn't impossible, but to say that it's never a good idea to ground amps to the battery... yeah, that's pretty ridiculous. More often than not, it's beneficial to ground directly to the battery. Think of the panel of the average car as a piece of 4 gauge wire. Anything beyond 1000 watts, I'd recommend a more sufficient ground. Again, it's vehicle dependent on how resistant the body of the car actually is, but isolated grounds are the way to go for anyone looking to get the maximum potential out of their system. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/13675-grounding-amps-chassis-not-ideal.html Thank you for the link, it's good information for the more experianced builders. But as in for the case of the guy who started the post... Yes, go ahead and ground to the chassis it will be fine. Now, as for the guys who run isolated grounds... This grounding is great for any high power/SPL application, because of it's direct line path, but with lower power set-ups, it is ok to ground everything out to the frame. As long as you have a solid connection between all the parts of the vehical(fenders, frame, cab,ect...(which can also be done with 1/0 cable)). This is a topic that can go on forever and it seems to be that it will. But, (vehical dependent) it will work for the guy who started the topic Best of Luck and Cheers! There is a point of diminishing returns on the amount of equipment installed, kinda like throwing money out a window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJD3 Posted July 11, 2011 Report Share Posted July 11, 2011 Why on Earth would you run a negative all the way up to your front battery when you can ground directly to the frame next to or very near the location of 2nd battery?. Not only is it a waste of wire, but it will be a better ground by going to your chassis. Go pop your hood and look at your factory ground wire and how big it is ( unless you've done big 3), not the best idea anymore is it? Make yourself a seperate ground for battery, it's not hard. As EVAlonso said, locate good ground location from inside, look underneath car and make sure you aren't shooting into your gas tank or some shit, grind down surface with wire wheel, flathead, etc to get bare metal contact, shoot ground, make sure it's tight,test it for continuity with DMM if you REALLY want to be thorough, call it a day. Actually, you've just made the case for grounding directly to the battery. Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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