Yelladawg351 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Is it absolutely necessary to use a passive crossover to a mid-bass speaker. I have these ( http://www.wooferset...ss-drivers.aspx). My amp is an Audiopipe 2004 4 channel. Right now they are on the High Pass selector on my amp. I do not want to do what I read on here that consist of using the low-pass of my equalizer and the high-pass of my amp because the low-pass of the equalizer is currently being used for my sub amp. I was considering buying a 2-way passive crossover and jus hooking up the woofer portion, only problem is more stuff to stick in my door panel. The speakers have a good frequency response of 50hz to 10,000hz.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coastdweller Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 (edited) A little searching found some resources that may help with your answer. Parts Express's crossover FAQ seems like a good start: Clicky! Specifically to what you need: "An example: You wire a high-pass filter with a crossover point of 100 Hz anda slope of 6 dB per octave to a midbass. The crossover will gradually filter outsignals below 100 Hz so that the level of the signal at 50 Hz (one octave below100 Hz) is approximately 6 dB less than the level at 100 Hz." How to achieve awesome midbass http://www.the12volt...TID~100789~PN~1 "Crutchfield's excerpt" In a hypothetical car audio system the audio frequencies might be directed as follows: Low frequencies (say 100 Hz and lower) go to subwoofers. Midbass speakers get frequencies between 100 and 250 Hz. Midrange speakers would see frequencies between 250 and 3,000 Hz. All frequencies above 3,000 are handled by the tweeters. Generally we tend to use what we've got and you might be headed in that direction. A crossover is saying that you're tying multiple drivers into a crossover circuit (The correct term) so if you're looking to just use the amp, play from 100-250 and up and let the speaker fall over normally. You could limit it's output with an active crossover ($200 and up) which would give you finite control of the output at "Low level" keeping the power to the speaker to it's maximum potential and limiting noise being added by a high-power passive. Edited June 6, 2011 by coastdweller Quote 1998 S10 (Custom din.5 frame) SONY H/U - 1 Din Memphis EQ - .5 Din Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Dash Plates) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Door components) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 500.1 (SVC 4OHM tied at 2OHM to monoblock) 2 10 Inch Polk Competition Subs 2 4/6 Plates 2 6.5 Components Stock Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Thanks for the quick reply. I'm searching right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 By doing my homework I will use an external crossover for system clarity and control. Now my question is with these speakers having a 2 ohm load, does it makes the cut-off frequencies multiply down or up? What is the math fore calculating this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coastdweller Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Do you mean active or passive? A passive crossover is very difficult to create/design from scratch and can cause a great amount of insertion loss at the inductor coil. If you can rely on the active crossover in your amp or control the input with an active crossover and feed to multiple amps. I prefer this method, multiple amps, active crossover ultimate control. If all you want is a mid bass you HPF at a very low level off your amp and be done with it. This is what I meant by "You may be wanting to use what you've got". Have you tried running the mid-bass full range? Also have you tried a HPF of 100-250 and up directly off the amp? That seems like the least expensive route and may be just enough. Quote 1998 S10 (Custom din.5 frame) SONY H/U - 1 Din Memphis EQ - .5 Din Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Dash Plates) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Door components) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 500.1 (SVC 4OHM tied at 2OHM to monoblock) 2 10 Inch Polk Competition Subs 2 4/6 Plates 2 6.5 Components Stock Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Do you mean active or passive? A passive crossover is very difficult to create/design from scratch and can cause a great amount of insertion loss at the inductor coil. If you can rely on the active crossover in your amp or control the input with an active crossover and feed to multiple amps. I prefer this method, multiple amps, active crossover ultimate control. If all you want is a mid bass you HPF at a very low level off your amp and be done with it. This is what I meant by "You may be wanting to use what you've got". Have you tried running the mid-bass full range? Also have you tried a HPF of 100-250 and up directly off the amp? That seems like the least expensive route and may be just enough. I was referring to external crossovers they sell as individuals without the mids & tweeters. I might do as you state and been doing so far as leaving my amp on High-pass and have it set down to 100hz to 250hz.. These Image Dynamics get high and play low notes well too. My main concern was I did not know if I could damage these speakers by playing to high of notes. I'm not a treble junkie so I might be alright. I'm going to use what I've got(High-pass filter on amp) and be done with it. I might experiment with it being set on full range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coastdweller Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 You're totally cool to play the larger speakers with high frequencies. They have no effect on their reliability and will naturally roll-off without a problem. In fact if leveled right, will sound better due to the need to fill out the system with a small amount of speakers. Being a SQ guy (With bass head tendencies) I love when they blend together versus one screaming at me. When you can damage the speakers by passing uncontrolled frequencies into a loudspeaker is when you don't cut the bass out for speakers designed to play the higest frequencies primarily (IE: Tweeters, small mid-ranges). Mid-bass speakers typically can handle lower frequencies (Within reason) without ill effects if you moderate the power going into them (Not crank it to kill them with very low bass). You may just do fine with a tuning =) On the things "I want" is an audio analyzer for just this reason. I want to test each driver's response in the cabin to get a real-world tuning. Quote 1998 S10 (Custom din.5 frame) SONY H/U - 1 Din Memphis EQ - .5 Din Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Dash Plates) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 220.1 (Door components) Cerwin Vega Stealth Amp 500.1 (SVC 4OHM tied at 2OHM to monoblock) 2 10 Inch Polk Competition Subs 2 4/6 Plates 2 6.5 Components Stock Alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yelladawg351 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 You're totally cool to play the larger speakers with high frequencies. They have no effect on their reliability and will naturally roll-off without a problem. In fact if leveled right, will sound better due to the need to fill out the system with a small amount of speakers. Being a SQ guy (With bass head tendencies) I love when they blend together versus one screaming at me. When you can damage the speakers by passing uncontrolled frequencies into a loudspeaker is when you don't cut the bass out for speakers designed to play the higest frequencies primarily (IE: Tweeters, small mid-ranges). Mid-bass speakers typically can handle lower frequencies (Within reason) without ill effects if you moderate the power going into them (Not crank it to kill them with very low bass). You may just do fine with a tuning =) On the things "I want" is an audio analyzer for just this reason. I want to test each driver's response in the cabin to get a real-world tuning. That's what i wanted to read. I'm a sound quality person also, jus not an expert. For the reason I ask for help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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