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Pyle 8" T-Line


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So I'm trying to make a t-line for my pyle 8" (Don't hate) lol. I came up with a 56.5" long port, 41" sq of port, and tuning of 60hz which doesn't really bother me cause if I don't like it then i'll just go back to the drawing board.

here's what iv'e drawn out so far. I'm not sure if I'm on the right track with where the 56.5" starts out at (I started it where the sub ends). I only have about 46" length-wise to work with so I tried to draw the bends but at that point at 2a.m. my brain was fried and I was just like wtf lol. So yea, help would be appreciated.

SAM_0072.jpg

Edited by Basshead15
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are there any other specs you can give? QMS, QTS, QES are each good to know for a tline, because they help determine if the sub would work very well, or so i believe

you want a qms of less than 7, qes and qts of less than .4

Fs:60, Qms:5.23, Qes:0.89, Qts:0.76

it has a good qms, however, qts and qes are twice where you really want them to be

SAM_0072.jpg

you are on the right track, the second design in the bottom right would work good, you want the port close to the sub, you got the port length spot on, du to the mounting depth of the speaker and height, you will need at least 9 inch high port and minimum 4.5 in wide port, that would give you 40.5 sq in of port, which is very close to your 41

Edited by kynto
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are there any other specs you can give? QMS, QTS, QES are each good to know for a tline, because they help determine if the sub would work very well, or so i believe

you want a qms of less than 7, qes and qts of less than .4

Fs:60, Qms:5.23, Qes:0.89, Qts:0.76

it has a good qms, however, qts and qes are twice where you really want them to be, but i am happy to design something for you

thanks to the high Fs it does not require a very long port, about 4.7 ft, you could probably get away with a simple U turn T-line, which are the easiest and probably best sounding styles of tlines

you will probably be able to get away with a 11-12 inch deep box by 10 or so tall, by 30 or so wide, ill draw a design up for you, how do you prefer the port and sub firing, its best in a tline to have the sub close to the port, in a u turn box, the port is normally firing to the side under the sub with sub up firing, but thats just the simple way to make it, whatever your preference is matters

Hey man thanks.

What's the importance of the Qes, Qms & Qts? jw.

I'd prefer sub back, port however way.

Edited by Basshead15
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to be honest, i am not sure why those particular t/s specs are important for a t-line, ive been told before just cant remember, but i know if you read the quaterwave T-line tutorial it talks about those particular specs and where you want them

here is a rough estimate based ont he drawing you made and the port area and length needed

this is just 5 min rough sketch, i can make a much better one in a bit, this was just to see if its what you wanted

UturnLine-1.png

Edited by kynto
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to be honest, i am not sure why those particular t/s specs are important for a t-line, ive been told before just cant remember, but i know if you read the quaterwave T-line tutorial it talks about those particular specs and where you want them

here is a rough estimate based ont he drawing you made and the port area and length needed

UturnLine.png

Damn that wayy quicker than I thought.

It doesn't need to be based on my drawing but thanks for sure.

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well, a U turn box like the one i made, is the simplest to make, less chance of any mistakes, and should perform well, in Tlines i Believe the least amount of turns allows for best performance, if you have the room for a b ox like this, this would probably be the best tline to go for

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well, a U turn box like the one i made, is the simplest to make, less chance of any mistakes, and should perform well, in Tlines i Believe the least amount of turns allows for best performance, if you have the room for a b ox like this, this would probably be the best tline to go for

Yea, I'm fine with that.

I have 14" (Height) x 46" (Length) x around 14" (Depth) to work with.

What are all the dimensions n stuff for that?

Edited by Basshead15
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Here is the one that is to spec

31 wide x 11.25 tall x 11 deep

56 inch port length = 4.67 cuft

40.5 sq in port area

Tuned to 60.5 Hz

For the cut out of the sub, I used 8 inches for the model, because the outer diameter is 8.8 inches, im not sure what the cutout is, so you woudl have to adjust that when cutting it out, but that wont affect anything else

Cut Sheet List: Based on easiest way to cut (if you can make multiple pieces the same size, i thin that works best, this is how I tried to make the cut sheet)

Top: 11 x 31

Middle: 9.5 x 25.75

Bottom: 11 x 31

Front: 9.75 x 31

Back: 9.75 31

Side without Port: 9.5 x 9.75

Side with Port: 4.5 x 9.5

45s: 3.75 (that length is before you cut the actual 45 for the wood, the side of the 45 facing towards the port is 3.75 long, the side facing towards the corner will be shorter after you 45 it)

any other questions let me know

basshead15.png

Edited by kynto
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60hz is way high..

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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