06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60

[scooter99]

Some GREAT progress made last night and tonight. I've only been working for an hour or so tonight, and now it's dinner time, but I've got one project about 95% complete, the shrouds have their 3rd and about to put the 4th coat of paint on them. Car is in the garage for the "break down" and I have all night after dinner, and all day tomorrow to finish! Great weekend so far!

Lots of pics to post either tomorrow or monday! Stay tuned!

[scooter99]

Ok guys, there's a huge amount of pictures to post here. Not everything is 100% done but I'll start with the part that is done....

The Scan Gauge II pod! Yes folks it's finally finished! Not much to really talk about so I'll just post the pics and then add comments when necessary!

Here we go!

So I last left with another layer of filler, and had lots of sanding to get done. This was the last pic from the last time I posted on this!

Then I finally got back to working on it:

Little high build primer

Because I wasn't going to paint it for finishing, I had other things in mind which I'll get to in a moment, I decided I still wanted it to be black under whatever I did. So I just hit it with a little black primer.

[scooter99]

So after that, which I'm sure someone had noticed, I needed to do a little more sanding to get some imperfections down. Again, I'm not painting it for a finish, but if I did decide to go back and do it again later, I'd like it to be as close as possible.

Also had to get the holes drilled out for the buttons.

Then this was the first test fit!

NOW, it's time to finish! This is what I wanted to do. Actually originally I was going to go ahead and paint it for a finish, but then I decided to do it this way.

The problem I had, was the angles. You see in this picture, the sides were going to give me big problems. Had to come up with a way to get those taken care of.

So I covered them first.

Then I did the rest of it in one piece!

[scooter99]

Overall I'm happy with how it came out. I learned however that I had to go ahead and really cut the back of it, twice, the width of the actual scan gauge pod, because with the angles it presented a problem and would have caused a rather large seam in the middle. With me only doing this a hand full of times, I'm sure there's a different and better way to do this, but that was the best way I saw to get it done and make it look decent. The only problem I ran into was one side ripped a little and when it did that it caused a crooked line. I'm about 99% sure, I'll be going back over this again and doing it over to get rid of that. But i want to get some more covering under my belt before I tackle this again. So for now, it's in the back, behind the pod, and cannot be seen from the driver view. But, as I've stated several times before, it's the details that separate from the rest.

Finished!

Next it was time to get it in place and wired up! I took the dash back out, and got it trimmed out and prepped for putting it back together.

If you get this far in your dash, you look at the face of the dash gauge piece. There are 3 screws you have to take out. One is under the head unit, so pop that out, the second right next to the lower gauge cluster holding screw (white bracket) in the center, and then the third next to the driver window. Remove those, and then it's all clips after that. Should just pop out. Might take a little pulling pressure, but it'll go.

[scooter99]

Next is to take out the lower gauge cluster. This will help for wiring! There are three screws here as well. The one top center I spoke of earlier, then the second and third on the lower right and left corners. Can't miss em! Take those out! Then you can just flip the cluster up.

This is what it looks like behind it.

Take your scan gauge wire with the bulk end, and pass it through the big slot there and drop it down under the dash.

Here's the OBDII port. I'm under the dash looking up under the dash. If you're looking at your head unit and HVAC controls, it's on the lower left hand side of that just under the dash. Pretty easy to spot.

Plug it in there.

Now do some wire management and get it ready for finishing!

Put the upper frame back in, and the lower gauge cluster, and screw them all back in.

Then plug the wire into the pod, and put the pod in!

[scooter99]

As you can see, there is not impedance of the gauges etc behind the pod. It's perfect!

Have to do some adjustments to the gauge itself as far as settings go, but there it is! DONE!

[evermaxx]

I like !

[scooter99]

So I also tore the front end apart and did a lot of work under the front. This was my goal for the weekend:

Scan Gauge II pod done - CHECK

Projectors In

HID's In

Fog Lights wired up

Re wire the Side Markers

Wire for LED's in headlights and under front grill

That's alot of work for basically a full day, and a half a day. Fortunately I got a half day extra on friday cause our server at work went down so they sent everyone home! Benefits of working for a small company!

So Next up, I went with the fog light wiring! There was a lof of confusion here because the fogs i have are not the OEM fogs. They're knock off oem style. They look the same, but the harness is different and not quite plug and play. I still have the oem style button, and it lights up etc, but there was a lot of brain work that had to go into this to get the right wires in the right places. Let's get to it!

Now, what I want everyone to realize here is that this is one of about 5 different harnesses out there for the ebay style fogs. So in all the research I did, I did not find many or really any that were the same style as the one I have. So I did some guess work on it, and did some figuring and that's how I was able to get the result I did. I'm going to go ahead and make this a diy style posting so that if anyone needs it, it's kind of easy to understand step by step on the same type of harness that I have.

So here we go.

Now on this install I'm adding two separate switches along with the OEM style fog light switch, because I'm going to be putting LED's in the headlights for the audi style DRL's, as well as under the front grill for the same glow effect. What I needed first was a harness to do all that. Here's what I started with.

These were the switches I started with but didn't realize until later that they were not on off switches. They're push and hold switches. Don't know the true name for them, but you push it and hold it or if you let it go it turns off. Momentary switches maybe? Not sure. Anyway, I have some of the same type of switches with a blue neon that are on off switches that I went to later.

Now you need to take the pocket out of the dash piece. There are three screws in this. One on the bottom and one on either side. Remove these. Also there are two tabs that hold the pocket in place aside of the screws. One on the bottom left about a half inch from the side, and another on the top behind the harness plug in. Now you can probably make this easier on yourself if you take the piece out above it, only two screws, but I didn't. Whatever you choose.

Save the screws, you'll reuse them!

Here you can see the tabs.

Here's the piece that's going in place of the pocket. This one is from the Ebay kit. The OEM kit, will have the same piece but the three blocks will pop out. This is one piece.

For mine, again, I'm using switches, so I wanted them to be centered. So I used tape to get my marks instead of just marking up the piece itself. Here's all that. Pretty self explanatory.

[scooter99]

Now drill them out. I choose to drill them out by stepping up in bits each time. I find it's easier to control that way. Some may not, it's up to you!

If you run out of bits and still have to get a bigger hole, GET THE DREMEL OUT AND DO WORK!

Test fitting

Can't just leave it black!

Now take that piece and snap it in place. The CFV may make it more difficult to snap in, but it will go in! Then put your screws back in.

[scooter99]

Now then, the wiring directions for the fogs. On the harness that I have, there's a small red wire with a splice connector on it, a White wire with a white connector, and a Red wire with a white connector on it. There are two spots in the install which require a small female disconnect connector to go on. I didn't have any of those, but I had molex connectors. So I used those. Using these you just kind of crimp them down, but not all the way, so it's snug on the connection where you're pluggin in. Works well, I've done it before.

First up the little red wire! Remove the splice connector, and solder on the molex end.

Heatshrink it and plug it in. If you look at your fuse panel, upright not on your back btw, this plug in area is in the upper left hand side of the fuse panel. If you did not get, or have, the plug in connector for this, the pin you're going to plug into is the top row, last pin on the right.

Next you're going to take the white wire with the white connector. Cut off the connector. The end on it is too big to use so you're gonna have to take it off anyway. Again, solder on and heatshrink the molex end.

Above the fuse panel, you'll see three big plugs with a ton of wires in them. The middle one is the one you need. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR RADIO CODE CAUSE YOU"RE GOING TO BE KILLING POWER TO THIS IF YOU HAVE NOT DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY YET!! So lift up on the white tab on the right side, and it should come toward you. Once that's done, you're gonna need to apply some force and pull the plug toward you. That's how you get that plug out.

Next you're going to slide that grey cover toward the end without the wires. I believe. Either way it slides, you'll figure it out. Not hard to do.

Once you have that off, you have access to the spot where the white wire goes. I chose here, to plug the plug back in and leave the cover off. Why did I do this? Well using the molex end, it does not snap into the hole like the other connector would do. SO in order to not fight it, I chose to plug the connector back in, WHICH WILL SET OFF THE ALARM IF YOU HAVE ONE SO KEEP YOUR KEYS HANDY, and then plug the white wire into that hole and thus not fighting it. The wire will go between the brown and red wire. There's a free spot there.

Now, back to the led switches. I found a spot on the panel, fuse space #8, which is not occupied and is an ignition source. I wanted an ignition source so that I could not forget to turn off the lights when I turned off the car. This will allow them to do that.

So I used a male quick disconnect connector and soldered it onto my power wire to the switches.

Then inserted it on the power side of the fuse slot. I did have to trim it down a little bit to fit. (DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT THE PROPER WAY TO DO THIS, AND IT WILL GET CHANGED TO A PROPER APPLICATION, HOWEVER I NEED TO DO SOME SEARCHING ON THE BACK OF THE PANEL FOR THE "OUT" SIDE OF THIS SLOT. IT IS NOT CURRENTLY FUSED BECAUSE I DID NOT HAVE A FUSE HOLDER TO PUT ON IT. IT WILL BE FUSED.)

Back to the fog light harness. Next you should have a branch of the harness that has a large 4 pin connector on it. This is for a relay. Plug the relay into that. Then figure out where to hide the 30 feet of unnecessary wire and the relay.

Ground it. This is what I had used before so I used it again for this.

Next, get some stretching of your back out of the way cause you're gonna need to crawl under the dash and be there for a moment or two.

You're going to see up in the back of the dash, behind the clutch if you have one, or just up there somewhere, a brown connector tied to another wire with blue tape! Yep, love honda, electrical tape everywhere, zipties, but here.................we're gonna use some blue painters tape! Nice! Here it is!

Told you, blue tape! Didn't believe me did you!