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an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

Okay I'll look into changing the idle speed. Do you know of high output alternators that don't cost $550 a piece like Mechmans?

yea there are some out there, as i have bought a few others before, but for what its worth, i ordered a mechman yesterday haha, so that should say all i need to say about that. and for your power, you really shouldnt need a HO alt, just look into a nicer battery and the big 3 as a solid foundation. also, make sure ALL of your grounds are good. a weak ground can really affect dimming, voltage drops, etc

1969 Chevy Chevelle

20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's

Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM

Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk

Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit

(2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front

(2) DD 3512's d4 coils

Sundown sax100.4 component amp

Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp

5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz

MY BUILD

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an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

Okay I'll look into changing the idle speed. Do you know of high output alternators that don't cost $550 a piece like Mechmans?

yea there are some out there, as i have bought a few others before, but for what its worth, i ordered a mechman yesterday haha, so that should say all i need to say about that. and for your power, you really shouldnt need a HO alt, just look into a nicer battery and the big 3 as a solid foundation. also, make sure ALL of your grounds are good. a weak ground can really affect dimming, voltage drops, etc

Alright, I don't mean to sound cocky, but growing up with my dad being an electrician, I guarantee you could pull a ground/power wire loose with a winch. Haha but yeah I'll look into a dry cell battery or something.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

Okay I'll look into changing the idle speed. Do you know of high output alternators that don't cost $550 a piece like Mechmans?

yea there are some out there, as i have bought a few others before, but for what its worth, i ordered a mechman yesterday haha, so that should say all i need to say about that. and for your power, you really shouldnt need a HO alt, just look into a nicer battery and the big 3 as a solid foundation. also, make sure ALL of your grounds are good. a weak ground can really affect dimming, voltage drops, etc

Alright, I don't mean to sound cocky, but growing up with my dad being an electrician, I guarantee you could pull a ground/power wire loose with a winch. Haha but yeah I'll look into a dry cell battery or something.

ok thats a good start. and being tight to the grounding point isnt the only factor in it being a good ground.... cleaning the area to bare metal, a good choice of a spot(i.e. not on the trunk hinge) and other factors are important in good grounds also

1969 Chevy Chevelle

20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's

Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM

Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk

Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit

(2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front

(2) DD 3512's d4 coils

Sundown sax100.4 component amp

Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp

5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz

MY BUILD

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Share on other sites

an easy start is the big 3, helps everything flow a little better and thats always good. beyond that, start with upgrading as money becomes available to a better battery up front, maybe even a larger group size if it will fit. not sure about your particular vehicle, but also changing the idle speed up 2-300rpms may make a noticeable impact on how many amps your stock alt puts out at idle

Okay I'll look into changing the idle speed. Do you know of high output alternators that don't cost $550 a piece like Mechmans?

yea there are some out there, as i have bought a few others before, but for what its worth, i ordered a mechman yesterday haha, so that should say all i need to say about that. and for your power, you really shouldnt need a HO alt, just look into a nicer battery and the big 3 as a solid foundation. also, make sure ALL of your grounds are good. a weak ground can really affect dimming, voltage drops, etc

Alright, I don't mean to sound cocky, but growing up with my dad being an electrician, I guarantee you could pull a ground/power wire loose with a winch. Haha but yeah I'll look into a dry cell battery or something.

ok thats a good start. and being tight to the grounding point isnt the only factor in it being a good ground.... cleaning the area to bare metal, a good choice of a spot(i.e. not on the trunk hinge) and other factors are important in good grounds also

Yeah, I sanded it down and secured it to an existing bolt on my taillight assembly.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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well, theres your part of your problem. thats definitely not the best place for a ground

1969 Chevy Chevelle

20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's

Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM

Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk

Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit

(2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front

(2) DD 3512's d4 coils

Sundown sax100.4 component amp

Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp

5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz

MY BUILD

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Haha it was the only point I could find that seemed stable enough after building my amp rack, but don't worry it's not rigged. The spot really should be fine. There was a reason I put it there, just can't remember now.

There are some other things that I think are effecting it more than that.

Edited by Dylank811

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so you're running an extra load on top of the normal loads your car runs. There will be a dip in power. Without electrical upgrades i.e. a bigger battery or going crazier with a H/O alternator you will notice voltage drop. I put a Shuriken battery in my truck an noticed better performance out of my audio. Your battery is probably what, 700 CCA? If that? I've heard of 1 CCA for every rms youre running. So my suggestion would be upgrade your battery to what rms you'll be running plus some reserve for extra loads in your car such as lights and what not :drinks:

My F-150 Build (So Far)

2 DC L3 10's

Kenwood KDC-X794

(4) Selenium ST200 (Highs)

(2) RE X8 (Mids)

Sundown Sub/Mid/High Amps

Shuriken Batteries

Knu Wiring

My Feedback Thread

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Okay cool, so here's what I'll do:

Next paycheck, I'll go grab some 1/0 AWG wire and knock out the big 3.

I'll look into a new battery for my car, and maybe I can get one within the next month.

I'll also investigate my ground and see if I can find a more suitable location for it, if my problem persists.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay cool, so here's what I'll do:

Next paycheck, I'll go grab some 1/0 AWG wire and knock out the big 3.

I'll look into a new battery for my car, and maybe I can get one within the next month.

I'll also investigate my ground and see if I can find a more suitable location for it, if my problem persists.

sounds like a good plan :clapping: keep us updated

1969 Chevy Chevelle

20/22" staggered Bonspeed Huntingtons wrapped in Nitto INVO's

Mechman 250amp cs144 alt w/AVBM

Kinetik 1800 main battery/Kinetik 2400 in the trunk

Pioneer AVH-3200dvd Headunit

(2) sets of Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine components up front

(2) DD 3512's d4 coils

Sundown sax100.4 component amp

Sundown saz-3000d subwoofer amp

5ft^3 box tuned to 34hz

MY BUILD

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