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F150 build Battery or ALT???? help please


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Don't have to cut any wires ^^ just the growing to the body, the positive from th alt to battery, and the nagging from engine to chassis ( maybe it's engine to battery negative ? ) fuck can't remember right now.

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

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alt, if you can afford it, always get an alt first.

just my opinion. id rather have a steady 14.4 than a steady 12.9.

I would almost always get batteries first. Reserve>charging.

Although the 2 work hand in hand, you can't charge your amp with your alt so I will almost always get barreled first, as your alt splits it's amperage between the batteries it's charging if I'm not mistaken, just takes a little longer to charge them to full capacity.

thats not how it works. if your alt can keep up you wont need a "reserve" batteries dont run at 14 volts, they run at twelve and charge at 14.

amps make more power at 14 volts than at 12. in normal situations your car should run COMPLETELY off the alternator and only use the battery for starting.

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when you see someone system bangin @ 14.4+ (on a 12v system) volts steady, thats all alternator, not batteries, once its starts dropping after the alt cant keep up then the batteries "reserve" comes into play @ around 12.5-13 volts.

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alt, if you can afford it, always get an alt first.

just my opinion. id rather have a steady 14.4 than a steady 12.9.

I would almost always get batteries first. Reserve>charging.

Although the 2 work hand in hand, you can't charge your amp with your alt so I will almost always get barreled first, as your alt splits it's amperage between the batteries it's charging if I'm not mistaken, just takes a little longer to charge them to full capacity.

thats not how it works. if your alt can keep up you wont need a "reserve" batteries dont run at 14 volts, they run at twelve and charge at 14.

amps make more power at 14 volts than at 12. in normal situations your car should run COMPLETELY off the alternator and only use the battery for starting.

Well I do have all JL amps slash series and they supposedly put out same watts from 14 to 11.5 volts I do believe.. If that helps you out

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Don't have to cut any wires ^^ just the growing to the body, the positive from th alt to battery, and the nagging from engine to chassis ( maybe it's engine to battery negative ? ) fuck can't remember right now.

bat + to alt +

Engine/alt casing to frame

bat - to frame

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alt, if you can afford it, always get an alt first.

just my opinion. id rather have a steady 14.4 than a steady 12.9.

I would almost always get batteries first. Reserve>charging.

Although the 2 work hand in hand, you can't charge your amp with your alt so I will almost always get barreled first, as your alt splits it's amperage between the batteries it's charging if I'm not mistaken, just takes a little longer to charge them to full capacity.

thats not how it works. if your alt can keep up you wont need a "reserve" batteries dont run at 14 volts, they run at twelve and charge at 14.

amps make more power at 14 volts than at 12. in normal situations your car should run COMPLETELY off the alternator and only use the battery for starting.

Well I do have all JL amps slash series and they supposedly put out same watts from 14 to 11.5 volts I do believe.. If that helps you out

still easier on the amp if they have a stronger input voltage. keep things much "cooler"

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do what can do. i still have a stock alt and a tiny ass battery in back, just cuz i cant afford an alt.

but if it was me and i had the money i would of got an alt first. you can get a battery first of course, it will obviously NOT hurt. you just asked which you should get and i answered.

if its gonna be 2 months either way get the batt instead of not ya know? but if you can save the batt money and get an alt in a month instead i would do that, its all about funds and you know what you got, i dont.

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How often does someone voltage stay steady at 14.4 though? Heat, resistance etc, will keep thy from happening ( maybe not with a smaller setup ) but once you get into multiple thousands of watts, it's nearly impossible unless you have enough reserve.

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

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Hang on. You're running a 13 and 2 10s at the same time and wondering why it sounded like ass? Are they in the same box?

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

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