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Sonic Electronix

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he is telling me that he knows so much about subs and amps, but he just told me this not ten minutes ago,let me set the story... when he talks about subs or amps, hes always talking MAX power, and i try to tell him that he should go RMS power, he just told me, he gos "i have never had anybody return a audiopipe sub...except for 1 guy, and he was giving it 2x what it was supposed to get" and so since the sub is 800w rms and 1600w max, i said " well thats only 1600w rms" and he gos "why do you always go buy RMS, i always go buy max power, your the only person i know that goes by rms not max, even at the shop(which is filled with other audiopipe fans) we talk max power, you sound stupid" so i told him that id let you guys tell him whats up....

oh, and his big question is, "Why should you go by rms, do the shitty subs you look at only handle their rms power?" ha, just so you know the subs i look at and tell him about are dd, ascendant audio, fi, audioque, tc sounds and other high quality manufactures. 1 thing he dosent realize is that max power is only a marketing gemmik that he fell for, as the above products don't have a "max power" rating lol

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Your right, you should go by RMS. RMS stands for "root mean square" which in a nutshell means average. Your wall outlet says 110 volts, when you hook up a DDM to an outlet it also says 110V. This is because it measures RMS voltage. If you were to actually analyze the wave format, it would vary from 120-110 constantly. "MAX" is just like you said, a marketing scam. You would never run a sub at it "max" wattage on a day-to-day basis, you would be buying a new sub once a week.

So, anyway RMS is the standard. The only time you would go off of using max is incase your preparing for a surge. Such as fusing, you use your max current that your wire can handle w/o melting.

Hope this helped and next time you see this guy try to explain it to him.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square

Best of Luck and Cheers!

There is a point of diminishing returns on the amount of equipment installed, kinda like throwing money out a window.

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Your right, you should go by RMS. RMS stands for "root mean square" which in a nutshell means average. Your wall outlet says 110 volts, when you hook up a DDM to an outlet it also says 110V. This is because it measures RMS voltage. If you were to actually analyze the wave format, it would vary from 120-110 constantly. "MAX" is just like you said, a marketing scam. You would never run a sub at it "max" wattage on a day-to-day basis, you would be buying a new sub once a week.

So, anyway RMS is the standard. The only time you would go off of using max is incase your preparing for a surge. Such as fusing, you use your max current that your wire can handle w/o melting.

Hope this helped and next time you see this guy try to explain it to him.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square

he says if you had a good enough subwoofer, you would be able to run it as a daily driver at 1/2 to full volume every day with no problems.

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