ARMYSGT_D Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 i go outside to do my big 3 today and i trace my battery grounds no problem then i move on to see where my battery positive begins from the alternator i couldnt find it so i start from the battery and one battery positive runs to the fusw box smaller wire and the main battery positive runs only 3 feet to something that is no where near the alternator. is this normal do i just upgrade that or do i run a whole new wire from something on the alternator i see no big wire coming of it just a 2 plugs please help Quote current set-up kenwood ddx 712 clarion eq focal 165 k2p front focal 165v2 rear 2 re audio sexxx 12 us amps md3d us amps md42 1 optima yellow top (rear) 1 xs power 5100r (front) big 3 and 1 run 1/0 stinger wire my build my rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MegaloManiac Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 run a new wire from alt straight to battery. current will take the path of least resistance any ways so just add wire dont replace, you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 (edited) These are the 3 wires you need to replace. * Alternator positive to battery positive with or without optional fuse * Battery negative to chassis * Chassis to engine block Ideally anything above stock wire size is an improvement... but remember bigger is better. I highly recommend 1/0 gauge wire... or at least a 4 gauge wire.. AH yes and your setup is like mine... Your alternator wire runs from the positive battery terminal to the "mega fuse". From the "mega fuse" to the alternator. Mega fuse is located on the fuse box, probably hidden/protected by a piece of plastic. Edited November 3, 2007 by SojiaRaggs9000 Quote * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MegaloManiac Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 These are the 3 wires you need to replace.* Alternator positive to battery positive with or without optional fuse * Battery negative to chassis * Chassis to engine block Ideally anything above stock wire size is an improvement... but remember bigger is better. I highly recommend 1/0 gauge wire... or at least a 4 gauge wire.. AH yes and your setup is like mine... Your alternator wire runs from the positive battery terminal to the "mega fuse". From the "mega fuse" to the alternator. Mega fuse is located on the fuse box, probably hidden/protected by a piece of plastic. You dont HAVE to replace, you can add. current will take the path of least resistance anyways. If its too muhc of a pain to replace, then just add, like i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SojiaRaggs9000 Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 You dont HAVE to replace, you can add. current will take the path of least resistance anyways. If its too muhc of a pain to replace, then just add, like i did. Well thats true but if you have stock connectors then your gunna need some kinda after market terminals ect... then again you should already have them with a system. Anyways you have to disconnect screws ect to attach terminal rings for the added wire so way not go all out? Quote * Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver * One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator * KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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