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Second Skin Audio

screws or nuts and bolts?


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My Level 3 can accomodate a 1/4-20 if thats any help.

1998 SS/T Ram Build Log

- Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation

- 2 DC Level 3 12"

- Components???

- Sundown ???

- Sundown???

- Knu Konceptz

- Second Skin Dampy Pro

- XS D6500

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I use 1/4 on my xls.. make sure your sub is centered before you drill holes... my major issue is t nuts like to push out and or cross thread easy.... glue them in from the back a dab of ca works well.. its goin to be a bitch if your speaker cutouts aren't tight lining up the holes but t nuts are a lot stronger and allow you to take subs in an out without stripping holes with screws

TEAM DC AUDIO

VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop

HEADUNIT:alpine 9886

PREAMP:arcaudio

FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door

KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4

REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s

HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors

SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV

SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s

ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket

WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back

BATTERIES:6-d1400s

TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5.

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If you use screws make sure to use bigger screws, not necessarily longer but thicker with a bigger screw head. (twss)

I used a slimmer screw for my first wall and the heads snapped off of them after 8 or so months. Choose wisely or it could potentially cost you an amp or sub or both. :drinks:

1986 C20 Suburban

9 American Bass XFL 15's

B2 M1MKII

14v XS Power Batteries

Maxwell Caps

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not

you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router.

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I use 1/4 on my xls.. make sure your sub is centered before you drill holes... my major issue is t nuts like to push out and or cross thread easy.... glue them in from the back a dab of ca works well.. its goin to be a bitch if your speaker cutouts aren't tight lining up the holes but t nuts are a lot stronger and allow you to take subs in an out without stripping holes with screws

This, or make the hole a hair small and press them in with a C clamp.

1998 SS/T Ram Build Log

- Kenwood KVT-514 and KNA-G510 Navigation

- 2 DC Level 3 12"

- Components???

- Sundown ???

- Sundown???

- Knu Konceptz

- Second Skin Dampy Pro

- XS D6500

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Share on other sites

ive used screws on lvl 5s in my wall... granted they were bigger screws, they worked fine

unless you got a sub heavier than a lvl 5, which there are not that many.. i doubt you need bolts

im using 2 inch screws right, do u thing it would be okay?

or should i use tee nuts and bolts.?

do you know the size of the mounting wholes for the lvl 5s?

it really cold out ha.

Tee nuts and button cap torx bolts......make it hard for the thieves.

then they will prolly stab the subs haha

and thanks everyone for replying!

But, a recone is a whole lot cheaper than a new sub

Edited by bobobass

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2000 Subaru outback 2.5l

Head Unit: Pioneer deh 4300ub

front stage: tbd

subwoofer: Stock Fi Q 18"

amp: Audio que 1200d

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