DODGE-BASSHEAD25 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 You could do that with the outer subs only. Don't know if sound would be affected that much but I would opt out that option myself. im just thinking it would be a easier box to build. and im not too good with cutting and mounting to make rings and the different locations of the subs. why wuld you opt out of it? and when i mount them will i need to reverse the ploarity by reversing the speaker wires on the inverted subs? Well I just prefer not to have one sub firing at the body of another one, most likely it's not a big deal but if it can be avoided I would certainly do, also you will need to have wiring exposed. The MDF rings ca be found on eBay in quantities if you just opt out doing the job yourself. I mean, I am still all in for a 2 sub ported design, usually you cut 8-9 rectangular pieces if wood - no angles and you are done. But it won't make the subs soundalike completely as crappy as possible. Still sound pretty good. Car 1999 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6 Deck Kenwood DDX-512 Head Unit Doors (2) Diamond Audio DA6.6 6.5's (2) Cerwin Vega 3" Horn Tweeters (1) Alpine MRP-F240 for Doors & Tweets Rear Deck(on factory wiring) (2) JVC 6.5's (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9's Subs firing forward (2) Skar Audio VVX-12's (1) MBQuart ONX1500.1D for Subs Wiring Cadence 4AWG for MBQuart Amp Advance Auto 8 AWG for Alpine Amp Cadence and Monster 4 AWG Wire to Kinetic HC1200 Batteries Stock Replacement up front Kinetic HC1200 in the back for the amps. And yes "I drive a Dodge Stratus" Here is my build log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Not sure what would be the effect for sure, since the subs have a negative displacement mounted backwards, the box would probably need some redesign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DODGE-BASSHEAD25 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 could i add rings to the first design to make the subs fit? Car 1999 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6 Deck Kenwood DDX-512 Head Unit Doors (2) Diamond Audio DA6.6 6.5's (2) Cerwin Vega 3" Horn Tweeters (1) Alpine MRP-F240 for Doors & Tweets Rear Deck(on factory wiring) (2) JVC 6.5's (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9's Subs firing forward (2) Skar Audio VVX-12's (1) MBQuart ONX1500.1D for Subs Wiring Cadence 4AWG for MBQuart Amp Advance Auto 8 AWG for Alpine Amp Cadence and Monster 4 AWG Wire to Kinetic HC1200 Batteries Stock Replacement up front Kinetic HC1200 in the back for the amps. And yes "I drive a Dodge Stratus" Here is my build log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 lol..I tried that also before moving the subs, both the placement and the rings were necessary, it's not like I wanted to place the subs the way they are, I had no choice, I'd say I got lucky to make everything to fit in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DODGE-BASSHEAD25 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 ok so i will just use te new design. another thing im wondering. tis is my first box. what do i use. i know wood glue and in the corners when its together but what do i use to build it. screws,nails, what? Car 1999 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6 Deck Kenwood DDX-512 Head Unit Doors (2) Diamond Audio DA6.6 6.5's (2) Cerwin Vega 3" Horn Tweeters (1) Alpine MRP-F240 for Doors & Tweets Rear Deck(on factory wiring) (2) JVC 6.5's (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9's Subs firing forward (2) Skar Audio VVX-12's (1) MBQuart ONX1500.1D for Subs Wiring Cadence 4AWG for MBQuart Amp Advance Auto 8 AWG for Alpine Amp Cadence and Monster 4 AWG Wire to Kinetic HC1200 Batteries Stock Replacement up front Kinetic HC1200 in the back for the amps. And yes "I drive a Dodge Stratus" Here is my build log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 You will most likely find this interesting: http://www.kicker.com/building_enclosures Regardless I love MDF screws and t-nuts for the subs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DODGE-BASSHEAD25 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 so pretty much mock-up,pre-drill,glue, and then screw for each piece? Car 1999 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6 Deck Kenwood DDX-512 Head Unit Doors (2) Diamond Audio DA6.6 6.5's (2) Cerwin Vega 3" Horn Tweeters (1) Alpine MRP-F240 for Doors & Tweets Rear Deck(on factory wiring) (2) JVC 6.5's (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9's Subs firing forward (2) Skar Audio VVX-12's (1) MBQuart ONX1500.1D for Subs Wiring Cadence 4AWG for MBQuart Amp Advance Auto 8 AWG for Alpine Amp Cadence and Monster 4 AWG Wire to Kinetic HC1200 Batteries Stock Replacement up front Kinetic HC1200 in the back for the amps. And yes "I drive a Dodge Stratus" Here is my build log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 The quality of the cuts will have an important effect on the quality of the job. After assembly you must seal it completely as instructed in the document, must be air tight to work properly, use Titebond glue not some cheap generic one, MDF screws can save you from a crack are not expensive or hard to find, always drill pilot holes before screwing all this as general guidelines. The baffle sheets must be particularily solid, and I would strongly recommend using the braces shown, if you want me to provide dimensions for those braces let me know. Let me know before any cutting actually takes place to triple check all the calculations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DODGE-BASSHEAD25 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 The quality of the cuts will have an important effect on the quality of the job. After assembly you must seal it completely as instructed in the document, must be air tight to work properly, use Titebond glue not some cheap generic one, MDF screws can save you from a crack are not expensive or hard to find, always drill pilot holes before screwing all this as general guidelines. The baffle sheets must be particularily solid, and I would strongly recommend using the braces shown, if you want me to provide dimensions for those braces let me know. Let me know before any cutting actually takes place to triple check all the calculations. Well I changed my mind and I'm going with the slant box. The "V" is more complicated than I want to try on my first box. So can you tell me what the angles are on these cuts for the top board and the front and back pieces. And also let me know if all these dimensions are correct? http://c714091.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/b38f8c1b5dffa37e71016e845c5882378a3906104d.png http://c714091.r91.cf2.rackcdn.com/b38f8c1b5de0adf41f67ba0ee8c62fb7210d76df46.png Car 1999 Dodge Stratus 2.5L V6 Deck Kenwood DDX-512 Head Unit Doors (2) Diamond Audio DA6.6 6.5's (2) Cerwin Vega 3" Horn Tweeters (1) Alpine MRP-F240 for Doors & Tweets Rear Deck(on factory wiring) (2) JVC 6.5's (2) Rockford Fosgate 6x9's Subs firing forward (2) Skar Audio VVX-12's (1) MBQuart ONX1500.1D for Subs Wiring Cadence 4AWG for MBQuart Amp Advance Auto 8 AWG for Alpine Amp Cadence and Monster 4 AWG Wire to Kinetic HC1200 Batteries Stock Replacement up front Kinetic HC1200 in the back for the amps. And yes "I drive a Dodge Stratus" Here is my build log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 65.1 and 24.9 respectively (the complement divided by two for the cuts), the problem with that design is that the internal volume is way above BA uses, around 3.1 cubic feet, most likely overexcursion will result at or below rated power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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