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Port tuning on my subwoofer box


Nikitaaa

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Posted

While im wondering about things you may have issues on...you are wired in parrallel on the coils of the sub right?

I mean both reds together and then to + and then both blacks together to -

Making sure. a series connection would kill the amount of power the amp is putting out.

Yup, the sub has direct leads so I crimped red together, and black together and made it so just one wire is running off of each color.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

Posted

Well play with some box positioning and see what does well in the car. Make sure your HU doesnt have a crossover setting on the subwoofer output, if it does adj so that its not cutting frequencies you are capable of playing. Consider also bracing the rear hatch, make it solid as possible. Im sure its getting a beating. If none of that helps try another box and at least try to fix the port in the box you have now in the mean time. If you are still unhappy u may need to consider going to a bigger setup. Maybe two 15s if you can give the space and larger amp for the etxtra woofer(s). That is a big car and 140 isnt a terrible score at 42hz and 1700 watts.

Posted

It just bugs me that people with the same setup are doing 148's in their cars... :/

Any tips on making the hatch more solid? Weights maybe?? Also, I'm lost on trying to fix my port. How can I do that when it's already glued??

My next plan is adding another HDC3 an strapping another 1700 and run them at a final load of 1ohm.

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

Posted

It just bugs me that people with the same setup are doing 148's in their cars... :/

Any tips on making the hatch more solid? Weights maybe?? Also, I'm lost on trying to fix my port. How can I do that when it's already glued??

My next plan is adding another HDC3 an strapping another 1700 and run them at a final load of 1ohm.

The car means a lot. And they may not be doing those numbers at 42 hz either. In person yours may sound louder to the ear. Dont get to upset until you hear others in person. What you see on the internet and whats real life are two differnent things.

As far as the port goes I would just rebuild it if you want the simple answer, But i understand not everyone has a table saw and everthing they need just sitting around.

The hatch should have some rubber standoffs somewhere that can be adj in and out to make the hatch close properly. Adj them all the way out and then back in until the hatch will close and allow the latch to secure. this will help some. also you can pull the trim panel off and use a two part urethane foam to fill the voids thus makeing it more solid. plut a layer of deadner on it and reinstall the trim panel.

Posted

It just bugs me that people with the same setup are doing 148's in their cars... :/

Any tips on making the hatch more solid? Weights maybe?? Also, I'm lost on trying to fix my port. How can I do that when it's already glued??

My next plan is adding another HDC3 an strapping another 1700 and run them at a final load of 1ohm.

The car means a lot. And they may not be doing those numbers at 42 hz either. In person yours may sound louder to the ear. Dont get to upset until you hear others in person. What you see on the internet and whats real life are two differnent things.

As far as the port goes I would just rebuild it if you want the simple answer, But i understand not everyone has a table saw and everthing they need just sitting around.

The hatch should have some rubber standoffs somewhere that can be adj in and out to make the hatch close properly. Adj them all the way out and then back in until the hatch will close and allow the latch to secure. this will help some. also you can pull the trim panel off and use a two part urethane foam to fill the voids thus makeing it more solid. plut a layer of deadner on it and reinstall the trim panel.

Yeah, I sat in a little 2 seater Honda with 4 10's and a 1500 and it was loud! It was doing 150's on music. And a Subaru legacy hatch with 2 12 inch type rs on about 800 watts doing 142 on music. Just a little discouraging, you know :/

I will pull the trim off and put great stuff into the cracks. my roof flexes soooo badly though, at least 3-4 inches in the middle. I hate it :(

2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX

(4) Sundown Audio X-8's

(2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's

(3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries

(1) Mechman 240

3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunk

TEAM NWSPL

Best termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:
151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 class

Best termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:
152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class
155db outlaw

Posted

Would put money on the honda being a crx. probably the most notorious car there is (in america at least) for having some fantastic cabin gain. You plain out cant compare hatchback cars to your wagon. Its always gonna hurt your feelings. If you want loud with low wattage and low cone area, maybe should consider a hatch.

Hey look at the bright side of a big wagon....you can haul your MDF home.....in the rain. lol

Not like it cant be made loud but will likely cost you a good bit more to do the same numbers in a hatch.

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