Running Hi-output audio battery inline with stock(ish) batteries wiring ?

[A_G]

So I drive a 91 F250 IDI

Ive already modified my stock battery locations to accept Group 31 batterys (about 1100cca each, the same type that big rigs run), not to be like a semi or anything like that, its an old idi and its hard to start when its cold so the more juice i have the better.

Anyways to make a long story short, my truck got broke into and my old system got stolen (it was temporary anyways now i have an excuse to build) My plans have changed after i read about 50 pages worth of builds.

So heres where im at, a mid 90s e-series van has the same alternator as mine is, so hopefully i can find a high amp in that vehicle line up (no body makes a hi-output for my truck, over 130 amps that is) I dont have alot to run except the stereo and lights, its a mechanical diesel. It needs power to the IP and trans is basically all it needs (in a nutshell) to run.

So lets get on with it. I want to keep my stock batteries up front (they may get relocated to the bed later) and put my audio batterys back by my amps and use a isolator ?

Or should i just wire up a large solenoid with a relay to apply charging (or drain ) from my stock system to the AGMs, or maybe a remote on wire from head unit, to relay to solenoid?

or just use a isolator

My idea is that i rather have the additional power and not needed, vs needing it and not have it. i dont want to use AGMs as my audio and starting batteries for the basic principle of they are expensive and not everywhere carries them. Group 31's are common like i said semis use them, generally everywhere carries them, and they are actually just about the same cost as my stock Group 65 batteries

The big 3 have been done on my truck since it rolled off the factory as stock is 2/0 from battery to battery then 0 g everywhere else, but after a failure it 2/0 everywhere with some welding wire. i do plan on running a couple more ground runs, body-batt, batt-frame, maybe a frame to body near the back of the cab.

The stock truck came with 2 speakers 5.25in

my plan is to try my hand at glassing (im a big rig mechanci and have done it before but not speaker pods ), do some 6in's in the back up in the corners, kick panel pods, 6 inch in the doors, tweeters etc. Im not sure of the sub size yet. Im not going for biggest and best (or id do a blow through) i want my interior to look a certain way, so i have limited amount a space.

Take out the back seat, seperate it from its mounts, glass a mold of the floor, then set the seat pad on the top of the box, mold it in, brace it. so on and so forth. Then mold it with a custom dash to box center console. My truck came with buckets.

In the console im going to hide my amps, with cooling fans, i place for a EQ, maybe my heater controls (i want a Double Din in my dash but we will see on that since its the old vacumn style controls) and a couple of other things

Sorry i blab so much but thats my idea the questions are buried in there

[beatnbronco]

i'm working on pretty much the same issue but with a 95 bronco..using my 95a alt for basic electrical needs and the 250a alt to a pair of c&d's in the back for my amp..the stock 95a alt is wired up and charging but the HO isn't..i'm using the MLA module on the HO alt, stator wire and ground connected with dual runs of 0ga going to the batteries but think i got something screwed up..i took my pac-500 isolator out..haven't found a thread on any forum from audio to ford enthusiests and searched every image on yahoo and google wth no luck so hopefully we can help each other out as we proceed..i'm going by a shop today that rebuilds alts for help and i'll be sure to pass on whatever useful info i find...