15" Fi Q Ported Box help/suggestions

[Onelowgreek]

What's going on everyone... I'm new to this forum but not to audio.

Anyways I just ordered my 15" Fi Q sub last night and should be here middle of the week. I have always ran subs in a sealed box but decided to give a ported box a shot. I will be building a 4 cu. ft. box (after sub displacement and slot port) tuned at 32 Hz in the extended cab ported of my 2000 Chevy S10.

From what I've heard from others run the sub facing forward (towards the seats) and port facing up in extended cabs like mine.

Here is where my questions come into play:

Can I run an angled front on the box so I can recline my seats back enough and have the port run on top towards the back of the box facing up. I've run numbers on different calculators and works on paper but would I get a lot of port noise or issues. For example if I had a 36" high, 2" wide and would be 40.38" long?

Also should I look into running aero ports?

Any suggestions are more than welcomed... just trying to get a grasp on this so I'm not wasting time building a box that will sound like crap.

Thanks in advance

[Joe X]

Ports up/sub up is a good configuration IF you have the depth to fit the sub, sure you can use aero ports up. If you have some maximum dims I could give you a suggestion.

[Onelowgreek]

I'll take some max dimensions tonight when I go see my parents since I have my truck parked over there. Unfortunaltely due to my seats reclined I don't really have the room to face the sub up.

This is a fellow forum member on another site with a 15" sub in 4 cubes after sub displacement and port displacement:

[Onelowgreek]

My max dimensions are 46" wide x 22" High x 12" Deep

I want to tune the box to 32 Hz... How do I decide on the port width? 2",3",??

[Joe X]

My max dimensions are 46" wide x 22" High x 12" Deep

I want to tune the box to 32 Hz... How do I decide on the port width? 2",3",??

Ok here is a suggestion port up/sub forward:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 32.026 Hz

Vb = 3.494 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted

External Height = 22 in

External Width = 42.5 in

External Depth = 12 in

Port Width = 5 1/2 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 42 1/2 x 22

Left & Right Sides = 9 3/4 x 20 1/2

Top & Bottom = 42 1/2 x 9 3/4

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Top to Bottom = 15 x 5 1/2

Extension = 9 1/2 x 5 1/2

The port width alone is not relevant, but the port area, to know what is the correct port area, divide your suggested port area (in cubic inches) by the net internal volume (in cubic feet) of the box, the result should be between 12-16 in most cases.

Let me know any questions.

Edit: Try the Torres box calculator if you want to explore options and make calculations easier.

Edited February 29, 2012 by Joe X

[Onelowgreek]

Awesome! Thank you so much I really appreciate it! I put your numbers into the Torres calculator and going to mess around with them a little bit...

The only thing I don't understand is why the calculator won't give me the cut list for the port, just tells me the length.

[Joe X]

Awesome! Thank you so much I really appreciate it! I put your numbers into the Torres calculator and going to mess around with them a little bit...

The only thing I don't understand is why the calculator won't give me the cut list for the port, just tells me the length.

Is not designed in I guess because there are many port styles and many methods to calculate, I include that extra info on my suggestions so people can just go and cut the parts. I can do it only on a limited number of port styles though.

[Onelowgreek]

Was bored at work this morning waiting to receive some info so I drew the box is 3D for fun real quick

[Joe X]

You got it, I was wondering what amp are you going to use?

[Onelowgreek]

I'm going cheap for the time being Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1 after reading some reviews and hearing some people I know running the Brutus amps they seem to be a decent budget amp