RiccardoGutiérrez Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 you still have yet measured voltage, which can tell you a lot of things. you're getting suggestions on what to do when you didn't test anything. so we're all going blindly here with no leads yea thats what Im going to do tomorrow since thats my day off, I'll be sure to update you all when I find out the readings Quote 2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 what gauge wire do you have running to your batteries? is your big 3 done in 0 gauge OFC? is your wire from front battery to rear battery 0 guage OFC? then what size wire runs to amp? my friends car had major voltage drop (he dropped into the 9.5 range) and that was due to him using 4 gauge to amp and batteries in back. he swapped out all 4 gauge and went 0 gauge even to amp and now he ddrops to 12 minimum standing. the cable running to my batteries is 4 gauge and I havent done a big 3 yet until I swap out my engine for the zetec so I can upgrade the alternator from the stock. 4 gauge all the way, 4 gauge from the 2nd battery to the distribution block, and 4 gauge to the t1500 amp, but 8 gauge for my component amp since I cant fit anything bigger in it id put a lot of money on it that that is your problem. im surprised that your mono amp doesnt tank first. yea man that t1500 puts out more than rated or at least tries to. upgrade all that wire to batteries to 0 gauge, and do big 3 0 gauge and i bet that solves your problem. the 8 gauge to the highs amp is ok. alright I'll do that, I'll see how much 0 gauge is for this whole setup will be, then do a big 3 after I get my replacement engine. is there an adapter to connect 0 gauge to my t1500 amp? because its max power cable size is 4 gauge yes there is. the one i used was 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer from knuconceptz. also let us know your voltage on full tilt like Kranny suggested, that will tell a lot Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) cable size is fine. no need to put bigger cables in than what the amp needs. it'll give like a tenth or two more voltage, if that, nothing significant. in my eyes, going with what you've said, its either a bad fuse causing low voltage, a bad ground, a loose connection, or something failing. you cant test anything by just looking at it, like that fuse you said you looked at. i've had fuses that looked good but had broken at a part where you couldn't view it through that clear window. Edited April 12, 2012 by Kranny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 you still have yet measured voltage, which can tell you a lot of things. you're getting suggestions on what to do when you didn't test anything. so we're all going blindly here with no leads yea thats what Im going to do tomorrow since thats my day off, I'll be sure to update you all when I find out the readings sounds good, let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 cable size is fine. no need to put bigger cables in than what the amp needs. it'll give like a tenth or two more voltage, if that, nothing significant. in my eyes, going with what you've said, its either a bad fuse causing low voltage, a bad ground, a loose connection, or something failing. you cant test anything by just looking at it, like that fuse you said you looked at. i've had fuses that looked good but had broken at a part where you couldn't view it through that clear window. just curious, why do you think cable size is fine? when my buddy upgraded from 4 gauge to 0 gauge with same exact amp that OP has it raised his voltage drop by almost 3 volts Quote Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiccardoGutiérrez Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 what gauge wire do you have running to your batteries? is your big 3 done in 0 gauge OFC? is your wire from front battery to rear battery 0 guage OFC? then what size wire runs to amp? my friends car had major voltage drop (he dropped into the 9.5 range) and that was due to him using 4 gauge to amp and batteries in back. he swapped out all 4 gauge and went 0 gauge even to amp and now he ddrops to 12 minimum standing. the cable running to my batteries is 4 gauge and I havent done a big 3 yet until I swap out my engine for the zetec so I can upgrade the alternator from the stock. 4 gauge all the way, 4 gauge from the 2nd battery to the distribution block, and 4 gauge to the t1500 amp, but 8 gauge for my component amp since I cant fit anything bigger in it id put a lot of money on it that that is your problem. im surprised that your mono amp doesnt tank first. yea man that t1500 puts out more than rated or at least tries to. upgrade all that wire to batteries to 0 gauge, and do big 3 0 gauge and i bet that solves your problem. the 8 gauge to the highs amp is ok. alright I'll do that, I'll see how much 0 gauge is for this whole setup will be, then do a big 3 after I get my replacement engine. is there an adapter to connect 0 gauge to my t1500 amp? because its max power cable size is 4 gauge yes there is. the one i used was 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer from knuconceptz. also let us know your voltage on full tilt like Kranny suggested, that will tell a lot alright no prob, I'll check that out too then and check out my options cable size is fine. no need to put bigger cables in than what the amp needs. it'll give like a tenth or two more voltage, if that, nothing significant. in my eyes, going with what you've said, its either a bad fuse causing low voltage, a bad ground, a loose connection, or something failing. you cant test anything by just looking at it, like that fuse you said you looked at. i've had fuses that looked good but had broken at a part where you couldn't view it through that clear window. alright, I'll be sure to check all of it but Im pretty sure its not a bad ground or a loose connection though. Since I had recently disconnected and reconnected everything and made sure it was tight Quote 2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiccardoGutiérrez Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 Ok I swapped the fuses between my clarion and t1500 and still did the same thing, so I checked the voltages: [For car audio on, song was Pimpin by Cyberoptics at volume 25/39] (car Off/Audio Off): 12.57v (car On/Audio Off): 14.30v (car Off/Audio On): 11.55v and decreasing with each bass hit [but no cut off on the mids] (car On/Audio On): 12.5v and decreasing with each bass hit on the last test, my clarion amp did cut off on me when the voltage got to about 12.6 to 12.5v Quote 2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiccardoGutiérrez Posted April 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2012 lol I also noticed that my license plate kinda broke around one of the bolts holding it down so now its just one bolt holding my license plate on >-< Quote 2000 Ford Focus LX; Yellowtop Optima secondary battery; Rockford Fosgate T1500.1bdCP; 3 x 12" RE Audio SE-X 600w rms each @ 1.33Ohms; custom built enclosure; Clarion XR2410; 4 x Rockford Fosgate P1683 full range; SoundStream VR-345; NVX XEQ7 Equalizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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