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98' Ford Escort Zx2 - Beginning of a Rebuild


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I am looking for advice here..... I have recently sold an item and I want to upgrade my electrical. Here is what I have right now:

In Vehicle:

Sundown SAZ-1500D amp

DC audio lvl 4 m2 12" / SPL audio recone

big 3

stock alt

Duralast gold battery (760 cranking amps)

Just laying around:

Deka marine grade battery (1000 cranking amps)

My question is should I save up for a HO alt or install Deka in trunk and upgrade underhood battery? My biggest worry is voltage drop over time which is why I want to get a HO alt

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I am looking for advice here..... I have recently sold an item and I want to upgrade my electrical. Here is what I have right now:

In Vehicle:

Sundown SAZ-1500D amp

DC audio lvl 4 m2 12" / SPL audio recone

big 3

stock alt

Duralast gold battery (760 cranking amps)

Just laying around:

Deka marine grade battery (1000 cranking amps)

My question is should I save up for a HO alt or install Deka in trunk and upgrade underhood battery? My biggest worry is voltage drop over time which is why I want to get a HO alt

Personaly since our cars aren't too different I would go the alt for sure. The Deka isn't really made for cars but they can be used I've used marine batts before. They didn't last as long being charged by the alt but they worked. But if overdrawn too fast or hard certain ones will blow their tops. Really loud too lol. Honestly for what you where planing for this car the alt would be the best. Hey where's more pics your slower than me lol.
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Good build. The paint on the back bumper looks good!

If space isn't much of a worry, I would put the DEKA back there to start- with the intention of getting a matching battery under the hood ASAP. Things to know though- if the batteries have different float voltages, then the weaker one will pull the stronger one down. So- your Lead Acid Duralast (same as my under hood) will likely pull down the DEKA (I assume it is an AGM). Hence the batteries will "fight" each other. The solution to this really is to have the same brand / type battery under the hood as your secondaries... and preferably ones that have been manufactured very close to the same time to keep things as similar as possible. Also- if you add the second battery in the trunk, you need to fuse the power wire from your hood side before it goes into your trunk battery. IF you have a short anywhere on the wire, without a fuse it will pop the hood fuses and short until the back battery drains down or causes a fire.

That would be the quicker and cheaper than a HO Alternator- but know that to have charged batteries, you have to have something to charge it. If you are playing on blast and have a deficit, then you aren't helping anything.

12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro

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You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back.

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I am looking for advice here..... I have recently sold an item and I want to upgrade my electrical. Here is what I have right now:

In Vehicle:

Sundown SAZ-1500D amp

DC audio lvl 4 m2 12" / SPL audio recone

big 3

stock alt

Duralast gold battery (760 cranking amps)

Just laying around:

Deka marine grade battery (1000 cranking amps)

My question is should I save up for a HO alt or install Deka in trunk and upgrade underhood battery? My biggest worry is voltage drop over time which is why I want to get a HO alt

Personaly since our cars aren't too different I would go the alt for sure. The Deka isn't really made for cars but they can be used I've used marine batts before. They didn't last as long being charged by the alt but they worked. But if overdrawn too fast or hard certain ones will blow their tops. Really loud too lol. Honestly for what you where planing for this car the alt would be the best. Hey where's more pics your slower than me lol.

I BLEW MY SUB!!!! I got too eager and played it without setting gains properly. I have a recone coming from SLP audio in upstate New York so the "new" sub will have 8 layer coil instead of 4 and quad spiders :) it'll take 3000wrms and 6000wrms burps, but I'll be running it at .5ohms instead of 1ohms so I NEED good electrical now

Edit: I'll be doing a recone / paintjob to the sub on Wednesday, along with cutting of some wall panels. When I say it's a slow build, it's an underexaduration :P

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Good build. The paint on the back bumper looks good!

If space isn't much of a worry, I would put the DEKA back there to start- with the intention of getting a matching battery under the hood ASAP. Things to know though- if the batteries have different float voltages, then the weaker one will pull the stronger one down. So- your Lead Acid Duralast (same as my under hood) will likely pull down the DEKA (I assume it is an AGM). Hence the batteries will "fight" each other. The solution to this really is to have the same brand / type battery under the hood as your secondaries... and preferably ones that have been manufactured very close to the same time to keep things as similar as possible. Also- if you add the second battery in the trunk, you need to fuse the power wire from your hood side before it goes into your trunk battery. IF you have a short anywhere on the wire, without a fuse it will pop the hood fuses and short until the back battery drains down or causes a fire.

That would be the quicker and cheaper than a HO Alternator- but know that to have charged batteries, you have to have something to charge it. If you are playing on blast and have a deficit, then you aren't helping anything.

Cool didn't know that myself. So the marine batts now can Handel more than they did when I used them? Oh well thanks for correcting any bad advise or misinformation.
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Good build. The paint on the back bumper looks good!

If space isn't much of a worry, I would put the DEKA back there to start- with the intention of getting a matching battery under the hood ASAP. Things to know though- if the batteries have different float voltages, then the weaker one will pull the stronger one down. So- your Lead Acid Duralast (same as my under hood) will likely pull down the DEKA (I assume it is an AGM). Hence the batteries will "fight" each other. The solution to this really is to have the same brand / type battery under the hood as your secondaries... and preferably ones that have been manufactured very close to the same time to keep things as similar as possible. Also- if you add the second battery in the trunk, you need to fuse the power wire from your hood side before it goes into your trunk battery. IF you have a short anywhere on the wire, without a fuse it will pop the hood fuses and short until the back battery drains down or causes a fire.

That would be the quicker and cheaper than a HO Alternator- but know that to have charged batteries, you have to have something to charge it. If you are playing on blast and have a deficit, then you aren't helping anything.

I have heard about this problem with different types of batteries. And my biggest worry is low voltage = hurting the amp. and I don't have funds to buy a new amp every other week :P

If I upgrade the underhood battery to something beefier and a HO alt, you think that would be enough for that SAZ-1500D?

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I am looking for advice here..... I have recently sold an item and I want to upgrade my electrical. Here is what I have right now:

In Vehicle:

Sundown SAZ-1500D amp

DC audio lvl 4 m2 12" / SPL audio recone

big 3

stock alt

Duralast gold battery (760 cranking amps)

Just laying around:

Deka marine grade battery (1000 cranking amps)

My question is should I save up for a HO alt or install Deka in trunk and upgrade underhood battery? My biggest worry is voltage drop over time which is why I want to get a HO alt

Personaly since our cars aren't too different I would go the alt for sure. The Deka isn't really made for cars but they can be used I've used marine batts before. They didn't last as long being charged by the alt but they worked. But if overdrawn too fast or hard certain ones will blow their tops. Really loud too lol. Honestly for what you where planing for this car the alt would be the best. Hey where's more pics your slower than me lol.

I BLEW MY SUB!!!! I got too eager and played it without setting gains properly. I have a recone coming from SLP audio in upstate New York so the "new" sub will have 8 layer coil instead of 4 and quad spiders :) it'll take 3000wrms and 6000wrms burps, but I'll be running it at .5ohms instead of 1ohms so I NEED good electrical now

Yea I laughed and cried at the same time when you posted that. Just giving you a hard time you can't work on this stuff all the time (I wish lol). Wasn't meaning anything thing bad. Did the same thing when kicker solo's first came out pissed off the rep he was just saying how they wouldn't blow. Didn't know me lol. But that system has to pound in that little car can't wait to see your results with it. Diff need electrical major time.
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Good build. The paint on the back bumper looks good!

If space isn't much of a worry, I would put the DEKA back there to start- with the intention of getting a matching battery under the hood ASAP. Things to know though- if the batteries have different float voltages, then the weaker one will pull the stronger one down. So- your Lead Acid Duralast (same as my under hood) will likely pull down the DEKA (I assume it is an AGM). Hence the batteries will "fight" each other. The solution to this really is to have the same brand / type battery under the hood as your secondaries... and preferably ones that have been manufactured very close to the same time to keep things as similar as possible. Also- if you add the second battery in the trunk, you need to fuse the power wire from your hood side before it goes into your trunk battery. IF you have a short anywhere on the wire, without a fuse it will pop the hood fuses and short until the back battery drains down or causes a fire.

That would be the quicker and cheaper than a HO Alternator- but know that to have charged batteries, you have to have something to charge it. If you are playing on blast and have a deficit, then you aren't helping anything.

I have heard about this problem with different types of batteries. And my biggest worry is low voltage = hurting the amp. and I don't have funds to buy a new amp every other week :P

If I upgrade the underhood battery to something beefier and a HO alt, you think that would be enough for that SAZ-1500D?

Someone correct me but I think that doing bigger/better batt and alt would resolve all of your concerns. Overkill is always good lol. But I am limited on knowledge with these amps.
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I am looking for advice here..... I have recently sold an item and I want to upgrade my electrical. Here is what I have right now:

In Vehicle:

Sundown SAZ-1500D amp

DC audio lvl 4 m2 12" / SPL audio recone

big 3

stock alt

Duralast gold battery (760 cranking amps)

Just laying around:

Deka marine grade battery (1000 cranking amps)

My question is should I save up for a HO alt or install Deka in trunk and upgrade underhood battery? My biggest worry is voltage drop over time which is why I want to get a HO alt

Personaly since our cars aren't too different I would go the alt for sure. The Deka isn't really made for cars but they can be used I've used marine batts before. They didn't last as long being charged by the alt but they worked. But if overdrawn too fast or hard certain ones will blow their tops. Really loud too lol. Honestly for what you where planing for this car the alt would be the best. Hey where's more pics your slower than me lol.

I BLEW MY SUB!!!! I got too eager and played it without setting gains properly. I have a recone coming from SLP audio in upstate New York so the "new" sub will have 8 layer coil instead of 4 and quad spiders :) it'll take 3000wrms and 6000wrms burps, but I'll be running it at .5ohms instead of 1ohms so I NEED good electrical now

Yea I laughed and cried at the same time when you posted that. Just giving you a hard time you can't work on this stuff all the time (I wish lol). Wasn't meaning anything thing bad. Did the same thing when kicker solo's first came out pissed off the rep he was just saying how they wouldn't blow. Didn't know me lol. But that system has to pound in that little car can't wait to see your results with it. Diff need electrical major time.

on stock electrical and wired at 1ohm I had the headliner flexing pretty good, but holy voltage drop...... my headlights were dancing in the night :P Unfortunately during my total of 30 minutes of play time, I did NOT get a chance to get a video lol. I'm getting the new sub hooked up to an o-scope right after it is installed.

LOL at pissing off the rep. I have some pics of the damage, might as well post them on my build log!!!

SO I FUCKING BLEW MY SUB RIGHT AFTER I GOT IT!!!

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257e5a58.jpg

4ab66d81.jpg

I <3 burnt coils :D

c0544ad1.jpg

Time to prep for a recone

e4397e04.jpg

8e105a45.jpg

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Someone correct me but I think that doing bigger/better batt and alt would resolve all of your concerns. Overkill is always good lol. But I am limited on knowledge with these amps.

Exacly why I posted here, I don't know much about electrical :/

Edit: HO alt here we come!!! :D:morepower1:

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