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im more of a mechanical man in terms of vocabulary, so please tell me what wires are going where, specifically the "wire the coils in parallel so then each sub is 2 ohm then run them into the amp"

as i understand that is how i currently have it, just with the underpowered (i think?) amp.

my budget is as cheap as possible while getting a quality product. i got my amp from crutchfield, and since the amp is not too old they might take it back; i dont so much need an specific amp recommended, just power ratings i should be looking for. i also dont wanna cook my subs.

thank you all so much for your effort by the way :)

also i read that it basically masks the problem, so i wasn't planning on using a cap...i just diddnt wanna say useless when i dont REALLY know.

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sooo knowing your voltage drop is pretty important lol so you should check.

should have the big 3 done

also depending on how the gain was set, you could be clipping and pulling too much power

also going to check your connections. hows your ground? to the frame. to the strut tower? paint sanded

kind of a lot of things as to why your amp is going to protect

13 Kia Forte Build!

07 Hyundai Accent Build

***Super Seller***

N8ball2013

And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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another reason i came here where people know what they are talking about..hehe

voltage drop i will try to get tomorrow, should that be right where the amp shuts off in terms of volume where i measure?

big 3 may be covered by the factory, not entirely sure if 0 gauge from alt to batt warrants it (thats how the car comes).

gain is a little more than half way up, my trunk is very sealed, so it is tough to get bass in the cabin

connections are solid, but i dont think my ground is thick enough...ground for the 4 channel diddnt reach, so i spliced the 4 gauge ground of the sub amp and that 4 gauge wire is carrying the ground for both amps. the ground is directly to the negative terminal of the battery because it is right there anyways.

looking at the subs and the amp, i have reason to believe that my subs handle a higher rms than my amp is providing, so im pretty sure that is the problem.

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im more of a mechanical man in terms of vocabulary, so please tell me what wires are going where, specifically the "wire the coils in parallel so then each sub is 2 ohm then run them into the amp"

as i understand that is how i currently have it, just with the underpowered (i think?) amp.

my budget is as cheap as possible while getting a quality product. i got my amp from crutchfield, and since the amp is not too old they might take it back; i dont so much need an specific amp recommended, just power ratings i should be looking for. i also dont wanna cook my subs.

thank you all so much for your effort by the way :)

also i read that it basically masks the problem, so i wasn't planning on using a cap...i just diddnt wanna say useless when i dont REALLY know.

Okay, what I'm saying about the whole parallel thing is.. Since they are dual voice coils and 4 ohms a voice coils each sub as a whole is 8 ohms. So take speaker wire from one positive to the next on the same sub, and out of one positive into the amp positive. Do the same with the negatives. Then internally in the amp they are being wired in parallel also, basically if you can get down to 1 ohm that's what you want. Do you get what I mean man?

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Some amps will shut off if the voltage drops below a certain limit. That's my guess. I'm running 500wrms on stock 90amp alternator and I'm seeing voltage drop, but it's just enough power that it doesn't drain my battery or drop the voltage too much

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Okay, just making sure I know where you're at. At 1 ohm that amp puts out 900 rms, also 2 ohms.. If you want to save some pennies but still get a quality product, go to www.SonicElectronix.com same thing as Crutchfield but you'll save a SHITLOAD more money, I'd get an amp that can push 800-1000 rms, not a cheap one though.. Lanzar, Pyle, etc.. It's always better to spend a little bit more money to get that product that is guarenteed to be better and last much much longer and run much more efficiently

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well no your subs being able to handle more power isnt whats causing the amp to shut off.

its either pulling too much current through clipping,

wired incorrectly

or shitty ground

sucks im at work and cant really focus to help you more in depth lol

13 Kia Forte Build!

07 Hyundai Accent Build

***Super Seller***

N8ball2013

And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

ndjs.jpg

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how do i test voltage drop before i buy another amp? positive to negative with a multimeter set to appropiate setting?

EDIT: and i know my subs being able to handdle more isnt causing this, but i would like to upgrade because of that.

i am pretty sure it may be a ground issue at this point, perhaps a voltage drop issue...or trying to pull too much power

Edited by tortoracer
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