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Is this enough of an electrical system for my setup?


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Here's my setup front to rear in a 1969 Camaro Z28 drag car. And yes...the subs and amps and all that are just for show. They get ripped out when the car is raced lol.

Yellow top Optima under the hood. Big 3 0 gauge completed. 140amp H/O alternator. 0 gauge to the rear (about 17ft Cadence 0 gauge). That is where the setup stands now.

These are my plans:

For sure one Redtop in the rear on the other end of that 0 gauge wire. Chances are i'll get my hands on a second red top to go off of that one. But just to be sure, let's just say theres only one redtop back there...Coming off of the Redtop(s) I plan to put a XS D975 2100amp max battery. From there, About 3-5ft of knu 0 gauge (fused) to a Kicker ZX2500.1 that will be ran @ 2 ohms to two 15 inch quad voice coil Memphis Mojo's in a box tuned to around 31. Also off of the XS will be 4 gauge cadence (fused) to a Kicker ZX350.4 for my mids and highs.

So, my question is basically, (let's say ONE redtop) is this enough battery for my setup? I'd like to be on the safe side of things and not worry about anything when I beat the hell out of the subs.

Thanks!

Edited by J R

***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab***

-Jensen 9312 Flip-Out

-2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts

-Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows

-Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors

-Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars

-Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs

***1969 Camaro Z/28***

-500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous

-Audio coming soon-

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So think I read this right, yellow top underhood, redtop in rear + x975? For 2500zx kicker amp? Hmmmm sure, that will work but you gonna have voltage drop, the newer 05+ version optima batteries hate current swings, ie they suck for car audio, they drop and stay there. 140 amp alt, that kicker amp is gonna pull close to 200 amps plus the mids amp will be another 50 amps, so long story short you gonna have some voltage drop.

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2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

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How bad you think if the car runs a steady 14.0?

edit: and you think it's gonna cut out?

Edited by J R

***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab***

-Jensen 9312 Flip-Out

-2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts

-Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows

-Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors

-Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars

-Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs

***1969 Camaro Z/28***

-500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous

-Audio coming soon-

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You will get some drop into the 12s, if you clip it hard you will see some more drop and the amp could protect, kicker, memphis, alpine, some rockford amps are bad about shuting down if you clip them with voltage drop because they are regulated power supplies that use pulse width modulation to regulate the output, so they make the same power all the time regardless of voltage input. But this has a downside, if you clip them to hard, coupled with voltage drop, they will protect.

TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH

TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain

3x Streetbeat World Record Holder

2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 
2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4
2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4
2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db
2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db
2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db
2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4
2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db
2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db
2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest

Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw

Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db

Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db

MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db

Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab

THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB

The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012

(4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log

Evo X build log

Facebook page The Black Nasty

16163044_large.gif

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What is clipping? Also I have one other question:

What is stronger? A kinetik 1200 or a XS d975? Cause they're priced the same.

***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab***

-Jensen 9312 Flip-Out

-2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts

-Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows

-Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors

-Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars

-Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs

***1969 Camaro Z/28***

-500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous

-Audio coming soon-

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975 will have more power when your amp is demanding it. They will actually be pretty close on reserve capacity even though the 1200 is a larger battery. Instead of the 975 I would suggest the 925 or if you are not going to be competing I would go with the XP950.

How much does the car get driven on the street?

To answer your original question. Guessing your yellow top is a group 34 and the red top is a group 34 as well. You are adding a lot of unnecessary weight to the car for that system. If you race it a lot and take the system out when you race, then moving the secondary batteries out of the car will be a pain. You could run that system for daily use off of one S3400 or go with the 14V. If you are going to compete then you would need more battery power, but for daily use 3 batteries is a lot of weight compared to the performance you are going to see.

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I don't have the cash really for the bigger battery or i'd own one :/. I have a lot going not only towards the system but towards the motor I'm building. The car isn't driven that much. Certainly not a daily driver. I don't plan on competing but I'd like it loud for when I go to a regular car show or something like that. The 975 is $10 more on ebay than the 925. $169.99 for the 925. I just happen to have extra red tops. I would just like to run a system for the car that i can turn it up loud and not worry about it blowing something up, you know? As for the extra weight It will be easy to remove the batteries. I'm just running battery terminals off the tops with ring terminals so it's just a simple wing nut to loosen up and pull it out.

***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab***

-Jensen 9312 Flip-Out

-2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts

-Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows

-Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors

-Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars

-Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs

***1969 Camaro Z/28***

-500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous

-Audio coming soon-

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Share on other sites

it's about damn time that you made a thread :P I'm still learning about upgrading electrical too

What is clipping? Also I have one other question:

What is stronger? A kinetik 1200 or a XS d975? Cause they're priced the same.

your answer to what is clipping

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So does this mean a Kinetik 1200 is bigger? That explains a lot about clipping that little tool is nifty.

***2001 GMC 2500HD Regular Cab***

-Jensen 9312 Flip-Out

-2 12 inch Pioneer Step-up Shallow Mounts

-Kicker ZX750.1 for Lows

-Pioneer 6.5 coax in the doors

-Pioneer 4x6 coax in the pillars

-Old School Alpine MRV-F250 for Mids/Highs

***1969 Camaro Z/28***

-500+ cubic inch 950hp BBC + 400-650 shot of Nitrous

-Audio coming soon-

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