gotb00st Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Been messing with Torres calculator all night cant seem to get what I want out of it. I dont have alot of space for 2 fi sp4 15's but im sure we can squeeze it in. Not wanting to build a wall, just a nice clean system. My rear seats are on like a 15 degree angle so I have a little extra space on the floor. I have to be able to fit a dc 5k and 2 - 3 xs xp3000's also. I would like sub up, port back. I was thinking around 32hz. This is just for daily ground pounding, not competition. I listen to alot of dubstep, chopped and screwed, and hip hop. My dimensions are: Heights From floor to lowest part of roof 33 in From floor to rear seats 20.5 in From floor to to of head rests 28.5 in Width From wheel well to wheel well 45.5 in Depth From bottom of rear seats to hatch 34in From top of headrest to hatch 27in I was thinking of utilizing the extra space behind the rear seats for the amp and batts but I also dont want to push the port to close to the hatch. Any opinions would be awesome. Im looking at something in the lines of 25h x 45w x 22d. leaves me with 12.27ft3 gross. Edited July 20, 2012 by gotb00st Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Here is a suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 32 Hz Vb = 8.1 ft^3 External Height = 25 in External Width = 45 in External Depth = 21 in Port Width = 5 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 45 x 21 Left & Right Sides = 19 1/2 x 22 3/4 2x Front = 19 5/8 x 22 3/4 Back = 45 x 22 3/4 Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts: 2 x Front to Back = 16 5/8 x 22 3/4 2 x Extension = 7 9/16 x 22 3/4 Assembly guide (generic dimensions): Let me know any questions, comments or if you want any changes. Edited July 20, 2012 by Joe X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotb00st Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 will the port be to close to the hatch like this? it will only be 1/2 inch gap. Plus i dont think I will have room for batts or amp with that depth. Other than that I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 will the port be to close to the hatch like this? it will only be 1/2 inch gap. Plus i dont think I will have room for batts or amp with that depth. Other than that I like it. Ok updated the above see if that works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotb00st Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Ok I spent like 3 hours designing a box on google sketch (first time). Heres what I came up with. How does this look for structure, area, port area, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 First off all great job using the tools. The problem with that design is that it may lead to asymmetrical loading of the subs since the port is near of one of them and not the other, and I would look for some more port area. With subs up/port back you should look for an across the bottom port (or a no common walls port) or if you are wide enough (like you are) a shared port as I suggested, The other thing that is appealing about the shared port design is that is self bracing and in fewer cases you need to add extra bracing unlike the across the bottom port design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotb00st Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I originally wanted to use the shared port but I need to mount the amp and batteries some where without blocking the port. Although I suppose if i keep the 21'" dept that will give me that extra few inches to mount everything behind the seats without the port being to close to the hatch. Also what is a recommended distance to keep the port from the hatch, So the hatch wont be blocking the air flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 The distance to the hatch should be kept about the width of the port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotb00st Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Alright I built a box with the specs you gave me Joe. By any chance can u screenshot the Torres Calc with your port length? I can seem to match the tuning with the specified dimensions. Here's some pics of the setup im planning (Just to show u the limited space im dealing with). I wish I could just take out the back seats and wall it, but I don't want to do to resale purposes. Pretty much an exact replica of my trunk. This is with 3 xs xp3000 batts and a crescendo bc5500d (I may go with a dc 5k instead). Edited July 21, 2012 by gotb00st Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I'm sure I have never seen work like this before.. the only thing I would expect to be different is the hatch, I know the glass is curved but straight below that. Anyways you measure the port length you do it end to end along it's center line to either side (not both), if you are entering the sum of the parts length that's a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.