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Posted

No problem, thanks. So my amp and these two subs would work okay? And if I got another amp ( the same one ) they will work okay?

well you are going to basically give those subs 1/2 the rated power which will work but, if in the future you decide to upgrade the amp to give those subs full power, then you would actually have to find an amp that does around 2000 watts rms at 2 ohms or at 0.5 ohms, its easier and cheaper to find and run an amp at 1 ohm.

So if you are gonna upgrade then it's better to get the dual 1's now, only draw back is that you would have to run them at a 4 ohm load with approximately 1/4 rated power each.

Maybe these subs aren't the right ones for me then. Getting a new amp is out of the question because I just bought the DX1000.1 about 2 weeks ago. Maybe I should find different subs? That's why I was going to buy another dx1000.1 so they would have complete power.

Posted

Getting another identical amp would complicate things even more.... better to sell that amp and buy one that can run the subs at their potential, this way you can definitely know if to order dual 1 or dual 2.

Posted

also.. im running 1500rms to my SSDs all day no issues so.. 1 1000rms amp will not even move them lol

if you run 1 big amp, get the D1s and wire the amp at .7

1998 gmc extd cab

12 crossfire C710s

4 SAZ-4500s

3 Singer 400A alts
buncha mids/highs

Team Asshole

Posted

I don't think this would help anything but I have a 1250 watt power acoustik amp.

And what amp would you guys suggest? I don't really want to get rid of my amp. I'll probably look into getting different subs.

Posted

ok, now I am re-reading the thread , I realize that I over looked it, if you get the dual 1's and run each sub to it's own amp at a 2 ohm load you will be good.

Each sub would have to be wired like this to each amp.

lk3.png

Posted

also.. im running 1500rms to my SSDs all day no issues so.. 1 1000rms amp will not even move them lol

if you run 1 big amp, get the D1s and wire the amp at .7

Yes a one amp solution is better and the subs takes more than rated ....

Posted

keep in mind, the D2s are D1.4s and D1s are D.7s

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you do not understand the difference between DC resistance and AC impedance, please don't make comments like this. The difference has been explained a million times.

The subs are dual 1 and dual 2 ohm. And at Fs and on each side of the port tuning frequency, they are MUCH higher than that.

PERIOD

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

Posted

Because your meter is reading DC resistance of the wire.

Music, tones, etc. is AC. AC is an impedance. Since the voice coil has an inductance, and the cone has a resonant frequency, the impedance varies with frequency. The nominal impedance is based on an average impedance. It peaks at Fs, which many times is mistaken for this thing everyone calls "impedance rise". I could measure the true impedance of a sub at Fs sitting free air on a table using voltage vs. current, and everyone would start talkin about "table rise". :)

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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