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sometimes though when you get a higher amp alt, if its the same casing and stator, the windings are changed so that the alt produces more amps at high rpms (of the alt not the motor), but produces waay less at idle. DC power made my Jeep KJ 260a alt with a bigger stator and case, so even at idle it produces almost the max of my oem unit. Expensive tho, $600. So see if you can get specs on the stinger alt, like what amps it makes at what rpm of the alt (you have to do some math to determine engine rpm vs alt rpm).

Another alternative is to have a local shop that repairs alternators/generators/small electrical motors etc rebuild yours to new specs. Usually about $200 or so

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I can vouch for Mike Singer's CS. My alt didn't fit, but before you go bashing him, the bolt pattern was right but the alt diameter was too big for my car. He says that this is the first problem he has had with this alt and a Zx2. The last Zx2 he did was 6G instead of 3G case like mine. Anyway he helped me try to make it work via FB message and when I determined that it wouldn't work he said he would make another one with stock casing (not as good cooling as larger casing). I'll be driving to see him probably next weekend, and if he can't make it work with longer screws and washer spacers then we will just go with the one he is making now.

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sometimes though when you get a higher amp alt, if its the same casing and stator, the windings are changed so that the alt produces more amps at high rpms (of the alt not the motor), but produces waay less at idle. DC power made my Jeep KJ 260a alt with a bigger stator and case, so even at idle it produces almost the max of my oem unit. Expensive tho, $600. So see if you can get specs on the stinger alt, like what amps it makes at what rpm of the alt (you have to do some math to determine engine rpm vs alt rpm).

Another alternative is to have a local shop that repairs alternators/generators/small electrical motors etc rebuild yours to new specs. Usually about $200 or so

it's Singer, close enough ;)

if you tell them what application you want then they can probably do it for you

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What'd they quote you? I've been digging around for one for a 2008 Aveo LS.

You're alt actually has a different part number. I don't know if there are any other differences. I'll pm you.

sometimes though when you get a higher amp alt, if its the same casing and stator, the windings are changed so that the alt produces more amps at high rpms (of the alt not the motor), but produces waay less at idle. DC power made my Jeep KJ 260a alt with a bigger stator and case, so even at idle it produces almost the max of my oem unit. Expensive tho, $600. So see if you can get specs on the stinger alt, like what amps it makes at what rpm of the alt (you have to do some math to determine engine rpm vs alt rpm).

Another alternative is to have a local shop that repairs alternators/generators/small electrical motors etc rebuild yours to new specs. Usually about $200 or so

This is from the e-mail from Singer

" The upgraded unit that I offer for your vehicle is a 210A. This alternator is a direct bolt on design for your vehicle and would be plug and play (the factory plug would go into it like the OEM unit) This alternator includes my newest 1.7" overdrive pulley to boost the idle output (this will spin the alternator faster at low RPMS to boost idle output by around 30 to 40A more."

2011 Chevrolet Aveo(click for build log)
Clarion NX-603
SKAR 4500.1D
Iraggi 320A alt

Knukonceptz 1/0 Kollosus Fleks Cable
8 AWG Sky High Car Audio OFC

1/0- Sky High Car Audio

2- XP3000 XS Power Batteries
SMD VM-1
2- 12" Ascendant Audio Mayhems

Toolmaker Fuse block

Toolmaker Bus Bars

(Last Season scores 1-15" Mayhem)

145.2 dB- Sealed @ NSPL World Finals (9/28/14)

148.1 dB- Hardcore @ NSPL World Finals (9/27/14)

150.23-- Hardcore on 4500 Watts!!!!

New Build (2015, 2-12" Mayhems)

146.9- Sealed on dash

149.6 dB- Hardcore in Kick (No wall 0-24" Hardcore)

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